Everything went to ***** today... Driving to college the engine started to knock pretty bad and it dropped oil pressure. Got here. Not sure what's going on with it.
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Last time that happened to me I was just really low on oil. (Just got back from a road trip.) Added almost a gallon, which is a lot, and everything was fine. It was running a little rough, but as far as knocking goes I couldn't tell any difference between the normal diesel knock. I'm sure its more noticeable on a gas engine.
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Originally Posted by F0RR35T
(Post 13457486)
Last time that happened to me I was just really low on oil. (Just got back from a road trip.) Added almost a gallon, which is a lot, and everything was fine. It was running a little rough, but as far as knocking goes I couldn't tell any difference between the normal diesel knock. I'm sure its more noticeable on a gas engine.
When I go on a trip I try to check all of the fluids everytime I fill-up. I don't always do it, but I try. I also try to get receipts and write the mileage on them, so I can keep up with the mpg that I'm getting. A sudden change can mean an issue of some sort. |
Understood, I do all that as well. But it was the day after the trip and when I drove to work in the morning, she ran perfectly fine. All the gauges were normal. On the way from work to school (7 hours later) about 10 minutes in to the ride my oil pressure gauge started dropping, fast, and it started running/idling rough. Not to mention a slightly higher reading on the temp gauge. Added some oil and let her cool for a few minutes and everything was fine. That was a little over 2,300 miles ago and only 1,000 miles after changing my oil. All of this happened in under 15 minutes, including my reroute to the part store for oil. That's just my experience. Curious to hear what happened! Good luck BigBlock!
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Getting it towed home right now. Don't know exactly what the noise is, but I didn't want to tear anything up worse by driving it.
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Just drove it to park it after the tow truck dropped it. Oil pressure was ok around 30-40 with fairly cool oil, but it was knocking pretty bad. Sounds like a nasty internal issue.
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Should be obvious, but a word of warning, now that your truck is cool the oil might read normal when really it's super low. It's not uncommon for these trucks to burn a quart or two of oil every 1,000 miles. Especially if your running some crap oil.
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Originally Posted by F0RR35T
(Post 13457978)
Should be obvious, but a word of warning, now that your truck is cool the oil might read normal when really it's super low. It's not uncommon for these trucks to burn a quart or two of oil every 1,000 miles. Especially if your running some crap oil.
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Just checked the oil dipstick. Correct level, but there are a bunch of little shiny metal flecks in the oil...
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Looks like I probably have a bearing or oiling issue... I'm feeling pretty done with this right now. Will probably just let it sit until I can afford a new engine with a warranty and I can dive back into the project with enthusiasm.
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Don't let it sit! That's how vehicles turn to scrap. And the 7 quarts for the oil pan doesn't include the oil that gets in all the nooks and crannies of the engine. You just did an engine swap correct? If so, its gonna take more then 7 quarts. Did you warm it up before you checked the oil?
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Originally Posted by F0RR35T
(Post 13460254)
Don't let it sit! That's how vehicles turn to scrap. And the 7 quarts for the oil pan doesn't include the oil that gets in all the nooks and crannies of the engine. You just did an engine swap correct? If so, its gonna take more then 7 quarts. Did you warm it up before you checked the oil?
Don't worry about it going to scrap. I love this thing too much to ever let it go anywhere. I'm already in contact with a few engine remanufactures and I'll probably have it professionally installed so that I don't have any headache with it. |
Talked to someone at a division of S&S Engine remanufacturing and to someone at Jasper.
S&S can get me a new (reman) 460 engine for $2120 including an RV camshaft upgrade ($75). That includes core charge and freight, and no tax because they're out of state. They include the other needed gaskets for the install (intake, oil pan, timing cover,...) and the needed "break-in oil". Will probably go with an S&S engine. With the RV camshaft and my intake and headers it should make a little better power than the engine I had before (the 1973 460) except it won't burn oil, make bad noises, and have fading compression. I liked the idea of more power, but I really just need it to be reliable and fun so I can get in it and go without worrying about anything. |
Talked to a couple of local rebuilders today. Waiting on some estimates. If they're not too bad, I'll probably get the old 1973 460 engine rebuilt by one of them instead of going with a remanufactured. It scares me a little bit on how cheaply the mass remanufactures can shove engines out the door as cheaply as $1500. Hard to have a lot of quality built in.
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Still in contact with rebuilders. Also contacted Jasper, and a local Jasper certified installer. Jasper price is around the rebuilders price, and I get a better warranty so that's the direction I'm leaning in right now.
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My final decision is that I'll be going with the local rebuilder. I've heard plenty of good things about the rebuilder, and a few people have told me that the Jasper engines have really decreased in quality in the last several years. One mechanic even said that he stopped installing Jasper engines because they kept coming back with issues. He's since switched to using the rebuilder that I'm going to use.
I'll be going to get my old engine (1973 460) from my granddads place (where I swapped engines before, ~3 hours away) on Thursday, and I'll probably get it to the rebuild shop on Friday. The owner of the shop told me they'd probably have the engine for 3-4 weeks. I'm planning on taking my truck to them too, and they'll also install/tune the engine. Won't take the truck to them until they're done with the engine. They'll bore the block .030 over, install new bearings, new pistons and rings, check crankshaft (do work if needed), new torquey "RV" camshaft and lifters, complete head job (valves, guides, etc...), mag everything, etc, etc... all the way down to painting the block. He said they'd get it balanced perfectly so it'll run "smooth as silk." Even with the oil burning, and other issues it had before, I could tune it to idle so smooth that I couldn't even feel it running when I was sitting in the truck. |
Sounds like a plan! Can't wait to see how she turns out.
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Originally Posted by F0RR35T
(Post 13500355)
Sounds like a plan! Can't wait to see how she turns out.
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Ha! Accord.. fun..
So you mentioned your in school. What for if you don't mind me asking? |
Originally Posted by F0RR35T
(Post 13501067)
Ha! Accord.. fun..
So you mentioned your in school. What for if you don't mind me asking? |
Sweeeet, at least you're in.. I'm in for aviation maintenance. Which is regulated a whole lot more then automotive for obvious reasons.. I don't think you're even aloud to own a crescent wrench. (I have multiples.) :-X18
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sorry for intruding but I guess you have to sell them to buy the other tools Forr35T.
Trav |
Originally Posted by F0RR35T
(Post 13501228)
Sweeeet, at least you're in.. I'm in for aviation maintenance. Which is regulated a whole lot more then automotive for obvious reasons.. I don't think you're even aloud to own a crescent wrench. (I have multiples.) :-X18
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Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
(Post 13501244)
sorry for intruding but I guess you have to sell them to buy the other tools Forr35T.
Trav |
I don't know as much as snap on tools are a soul may not be enough. LOL.
Trav |
Originally Posted by BigBlockF350
(Post 13501259)
Nice! I have put a little bit of though into going into aviation mechanics because there's tons of money in it, but I probably won't end up going in that direction. Not sure I'd get as much enjoyment and satisfaction out of it as in the automotive field. Wouldn't mind working for a dealership or fleet. May get more into diesel stuff, we'll see.
I talk a lot.. Just slap me if I no longer make sense. :-X18 |
Dropped my engine off at the rebuild shop today. The owner told me they'd tear it down and clean it on Monday and go from there.
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The rebuilder got my engine apart yesterday (monday), and they were supposed to be cleaning it up and taking measurements today. Hopefully I'll hear from them tomorrow or Thursday and they'll be ready to start machine work.
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Talked to the rebuilder earlier today (Thursday), and they cleaned everything up, took measurements, visually checked for cracks, and magna-fluxed the block and heads. Everything checked out okay. They're about to get started with machine work, and they're ordering parts. The owner told me they're working on it a little bit every day, and it'll be probably 3-4 weeks from now until they'll be completely done.
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What are they going to be machining? Overbore?
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Originally Posted by Bob Gervais
(Post 13529487)
What are they going to be machining? Overbore?
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Awesome man. Sounds like it'll be rock solid when it's done!
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Originally Posted by Bob Gervais
(Post 13529709)
Awesome man. Sounds like it'll be rock solid when it's done!
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Was getting an itch to do something with the truck today since I haven't really done anything to it since I've been waiting for my engine, so I washed it and smoked my tail lights to see what it would look like. The tail lights were starting to look bad from being in the sun so I wasn't loving them how they were.
I think they turned out pretty well. Still light up plenty at night too. Definitely within state viewing distance law. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=138258 |
Well, I've been doing quite a bit of thinking recently and I've got some future plans for what I want to do with the truck after I get my engine back. Not all of this will happen quickly because I'll be getting over the rebuild bill... but it'll get there.
1. I want to replace my amber grille lights with LEDs. I'll never have to worry about them burning out, and it'll cut power draw slightly which means I get to run more off of the same relay. 2. I want to put some LED fog/running lights on it. I really love LEDs because I don;t have to worry about bulbs burning out, they're bright, and they don't draw much power. I'm also considering using headlight bulbs that give off more of a white light to match the LEDs better. Plus I prefer that type of light to see at night. 3. I want to install some back-up lights. Not sure whether I want to use LEDs or some lights I already have. I'll wire them off of the stock backup lights with a relay. 4. I want to replace the tailgate (has a dent and a few dings), and drivers door (got dinged recently and made a dent...), and get the truck painted. 5. I want to install a transmission temperature gauge so I can keep an eye on my C6. 6. I'm thinking of installing an engine oil cooler as an extra measure to keep my 460 cool. I'll see how temps are when I get the engine back and possibly decide then. 7. May install a power steering cooler to help my PS pump with the 37s. I have a stock one that I pulled off a junkyard truck, but I haven't put it on yet. I want to see how my engine temps are when I get the engine back then I'll decide where the PS cooler will go (may not want to block any radiator air flow, I'm kinda crazy about cooling...). 8. I would like to put a roll-on bed liner in my truck and get rid of that big, heavy, ugly plastic one I've got. It's served me well, but I don't love it. 9. Thinking about getting a headache rack. Don't absolutely love the idea of added weight, but it's a great place to mount lights for the bed and it's good window protection. Think that's it for now, haha. |
Awesome truck dude! Sorry to hear about the problems but it will all work out especially with a rebuilt engine haha. I would definitely recommend a roll in bedliner over a plastic one also. I was curious how your truck rides with the lift kit and solid axle? I put a dana 60 under my F250 that already had re-arched springs and it rides like a brick haha
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Originally Posted by 1985 6.9 IDI
(Post 13539288)
Awesome truck dude! Sorry to hear about the problems but it will all work out especially with a rebuilt engine haha. I would definitely recommend a roll in bedliner over a plastic one also. I was curious how your truck rides with the lift kit and solid axle? I put a dana 60 under my F250 that already had re-arched springs and it rides like a brick haha
I really like the extra rear spring because 2000 pounds in the bed only sags the bed about an inch. And 1000lb trailer tongue load also only drops it about 1". |
I also have an extra leaf on every corner and overload springs, do you have overloads? Seems like mine squats a tad more under those conditions but I might be wrong too. I also do not mind mine riding a little rough as I am only a freshman in college. Also, I know they make coil-over stock replacement shocks for the rear didn't know if you would be interested or not, I have them on mine and I like them.
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Originally Posted by 1985 6.9 IDI
(Post 13539698)
I also have an extra leaf on every corner and overload springs, do you have overloads? Seems like mine squats a tad more under those conditions but I might be wrong too. I also do not mind mine riding a little rough as I am only a freshman in college. Also, I know they make coil-over stock replacement shocks for the rear didn't know if you would be interested or not, I have them on mine and I like them.
Maybe yours sags slightly more because the rear spring packs are slightly different from the F-250 to F-350. Yours is also a 7th generation truck if that makes any difference in springs (probably not, but I'm not certain). Don't think I'd want coil overs. Do you have any pics of yours? |
Originally Posted by 1985 6.9 IDI
(Post 13539288)
Awesome truck dude! Sorry to hear about the problems but it will all work out especially with a rebuilt engine haha.
Originally Posted by 1985 6.9 IDI
(Post 13539288)
I would definitely recommend a roll in bedliner over a plastic one also.
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