Door Panel Removal
 

The following was performed on an '03 E250, Power Window & Power Door Locks (PW & PDL). Apart from removing the window crank on standard window regulators this is common for model years 1992 through at least 2008. Later years may be the same or similar however I have no direct experience with those models.

The exact order of the first steps isn't important though---this becomes apparent as we proceed. Left door is shown but procedure is similar for the right side as well.

Everything done here can certainly be accomplished with dedicated auto upholstery tools but they don't need to be expensive. Used here is the Lisle #35400; cheap, readily available at most auto part retailers or online. Fact is a good metal kitchen spoon would work. :)

Onward then............for most people lowering the window is advised---less chance of breaking it during this process.

Fully assembled door, yellow outlines denote four (4) screws that need to be removed, access first requires removal of three interior trim pieces numbered in green:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6b75567581.jpg


First off is the upper black trim panel covering the mirror mounting bolts. Fingers alone will work here as long the top clip pops loose first. Once free at the top pull slightly outward then lift it straight up so the bottom tab clears the door panel.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2da419031a.jpg

Photos of the backside of the upper trim piece---maybe this gives a better idea what holds it to the door shell:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3be8d81973.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8d6abe6686.jpg



The first of four (4) screws to be removed is now visible and accessible:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2e9bd38cfe.jpg


Once the above screw is removed time to remove another trim piece to access another screw. In this case with PW & PDL the master control switch panel is lifted out:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...dfa5272faf.jpg

The above part has a removing point, shown here:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6f57191eee.jpg

Once that panel is loose from the door just let it dangle for the moment---we'll deal with it after a few more removal steps.

Remove this screw located behind the PW & PDL master switch panel:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...016c061a9a.jpg

Next up is the interior door handle trim panel---note the removal recess:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8a2c0f99f7.jpg

It pries out of the trim panel like this:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...43cd421da9.jpg

Back side views of that panel ^^^ showing it's attachment points:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ec8b91451d.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1e8d68e7eb.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5511f019d7.jpg

Once the above panel is free from the door remove this screw:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...023ed0755f.jpg

(Also shown above is the master switch dangling while the larger trim panel is still in place---careful handling won't damage it or the wiring.)

Showing the last remaining screw to be removed before the interior panel can be removed. There is or should be a small plastic cap covering this screw; remove it and keep for re-installation:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...215ab792f7.jpg

At this point the larger door panel is ready for removal---it simply lifts upward by holding onto the integrated hand grip. Be advised the panel should only be lifted upwards, sometimes requiring a bit of a sharp tug. If its been in place a long time it will require a strong tug. DO NOT pull outward as you WILL DAMAGE mounting tabs cast into the trim panel like these:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...37dfeb7a03.jpg

Another view of those mounting tabs:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...17094d96ec.jpg

The top of the interior trim panel is held against the door shell by fitting into a channel formed by the sash molding as shown below

Before removal:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2cb5481f25.jpg

Once the panel is lifted upward you'll see this:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...b9bfb94902.jpg

As you are raising the panel you need to push the PW PDL master switch panel somewhat like this:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...03f5a57b18.jpg

Do be careful to not force this through the opening---it'll fit with a small bit of twisting etc.

This is what you should see now:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...19f6cf203d.jpg

Notice the red circles---they align with the yellow circles in the photo of the backside of the interior trim panel.

At this point if you need access to the inside of the door shell CAREFULLY remove the plastic sheeting---last time I checked they are NOT available from the dealers, most likely they were never available in the aftermarket either. That sheet is held in place with a sticky double-sided tape that can be coaxed apart by SLOWLY pulling it--a low powered heat gun might work too.

This sheet works to stop wind blowing through the interior trim panel into the cabin. If it does tear patching it with any good grade of tape works well.

You should have full access to the inside of the door now.

Reassembling is just reverse order of removal for the most part. The challenging bits are aligning the interior panel tabs with their slots in the door shell, making sure the door lock button is poking through the top of the panel and making sure the top edge of the panel fits into the channel at the top of the window opening. Be advised its possible the PD and/or PDL's might not function after assembly, on just one side if both panels have been removed/reinstalled. This is due one or more wires have been slightly dislodged, not a huge problem.

Simply remove the offending switch panel once again, jostle wires leading into the particular lost function switch and eventually you'll find the loose wire. This might seem a somewhat crude approach but nothing more complicated is necessary. Operation shouldn't fail again since nothing typically acts on those connections; if they fail again you'll know where to begin troubleshooting.

If anyone can add a few images of handle removal for non-powered windows it would be a nice addition here.

Hope this is just a bit helpful!

Great stuff, I like all the pics. Added to tech folder! :)

Thank ya Sir!

The 02 and earlier or maybe it's 01 not sure but they only have 3 screws. Behind the black trim piece, behind the door handle cover and at the bottom of the door. Other than that it the same. Great info as alway JWA

That door panel (pocket specifically, and overall condition) appears to be from a model newer than 2003...

The model year was mentioned in the first sentence---that's not changed since it was originally posted. Everything is original to the chassis, nothing altered that would affect this information.

While there might be a few relatively small MINOR differences between the outward features of an interior trim panel as seen in the one used here as an illustration or reference the process remains very similar. In addition to being in the auto glass biz AND having done this chore on my own '97, '00 & 03 E250's I can assure its very much the same.

JWA

thanks for posting, this is a great reference guide. I recently pulled my door panels to add new speakers, the factory book is good but this is much better! BTW I snagged, and cracked, the front clip in the passenger side power window mechanism. Went back in fine but I had that oh **** moment!

My vans at the paint shop, getting the upper portion painted viper red. Hope to get it back in a week then I'll post some pictures.

When you get a brake upgrade solution for an E-150 worked out, let me know. I see that you changed avatar pictures, Linda will be hurt! Take care, Mike

Linda's still #1 in my book of car chicks----Donna Loren would be my real true love though--Christie's just a place holder for now! }> :)

The '08 brake upgrade on my '03 E250 is done and has enough miles on the swap to strongly suggest it to anyone not happy with the stock pre-'08 brakes. Not sure if its doable on the E150 chassis since the front spindles etc etc of the E150 (before a certain year) aren't the same as the E150's.

Remind me what year your E150 is RT?

Great post! I think we have the beginnings of a new career!

I'm alternatively pleased and confused---what new career? :)

JWA,

I've got a 2003 E-150 (Chateau). We did trade some notes on the brakes before, Seems like I'd need to go to the 8 lug hubs. don't really want to have to get rid of my factory 2004 aluminum wheels too. Keep me posted and thanks

Ahh okay I recall all this now----darned old age! :)

Can't be of much help changing the E150 front bits, not even sure if its possible on that year chassis. Wish I could be of more help but in this case I can't.

Sorry RT!

A career as a how to tech writer! You would be great! :D

Oh! :eek:

I'd need only be a better photographer, write more like an adult than a pre-schooler and possess a much much more thorough knowledge of my subject matter.

So yeah I guess that new career might be possible? :-X04

Thanks for the compliments---they're indeed truly appreciated! :-X22

JWA:

I want to thank you for taking the time to write this up and supply photos. Even a novice should have no problem getting the door panel off. While I don't need to take mine off right now, I may have to in the near future if I have to replace the door latch assembly on my 2000 E150. I have bookmarked this for future use.

Thanks again,:-X22

Joe

Glad it was helpful Joe----that was the main reason for creating and posting it.

BTW our moderator Tom started a tech folder when first coming to this forum--it has a few other similar posts by other members.

I have another under construction dealing with the heater core in '97 and later E-Series vans----not the easiest task but manageable to the truly motivated. If others experiences regarding shop costs for this hired out you'd save yourself the $600-800 labor charges----that's motivating right? :)

I know this is an old thread but....this procedure likely works for 95% of the door panels but on mine it did not. Mine (2001 E150) had two hidden screws behind the panel side pocket. My pocket is not the molded pocket but rather an elastic type 'map pocket' on the panel. I don't know how many e150's had this but I had to remove the pocket assembly first to expose the screws. The pocket uses 'standard plastic push type retainers to hold it in place.
I really huffed and puffed trying to get this panel off until I finally decided there had to be some hidden screws someplace. I was right!

I'd like to see any photos you have of those hidden screws----I have the same panels pulled from a '97 E250 which should be the same as your's---WAG there though for the slightly difference in years. Just checked mine and there are no additional screws apart from what I show.

If there is a difference it would be good to note along with photos---this thread part of the Tech Folder I believe.

Thanks!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3fd9eb3b4b.jpg

2001 Ford E150 passenger side panel


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...cc66bb44ba.jpg

Drivers side storage panel (separated from door panel)


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0ba38a205d.jpg

Drivers side panel (sans storage panel) showing where two hidden screws reside (aluminum tape at locations)


Ok, here's some photos. There's a photo of the passenger side panel (which was not removed) as is. Of course the other side, my drivers side which has a bad window regulator, is removed. The drivers side panel shows a couple pieces of aluminum tape (I put there so I wouldn't have to edit the photo) where the screws were. One on the left, top hole, and also on the right side.
Once again, I had to separate/remove the storage panel (pry apart) to get at the screws.

This thread is about R&R'ing stock door panels, those shown in your photos have been modified by whoever converted your van.

When those added-on panels are removed what remains is a stock panel with the hard molded pockets removed.

So yes in your case those extra or hidden screws would be an issue.

I'd thought maybe your panels weren't Ford factory stock, wanted to see your actual parts. None the less you've added a bit to this thread----thanks! :-X22

Thanks for this!
I hope to get to a project this summer that involves removing these.

Wiskey once you've done one you'll have this pretty much down. The only real (small) challenge is reinstalling them---aligning everything before the panel basically falls into place can be frustrating.

Fishing the lock rod through the panel can be a bit tricky too but not difficult. I will lower the glass to help things along when re-installing as it seems to help a bit---that's not 100% necessary though.

We're here to help if we can!

Looks like the original photos are connected to a closed Photobucket account. Any chance of getting 'em back? I've got door work in my future (as well as dashboard work). :)




Thanks!

I've added back pertinent photos and edited this slightly to be a bit more clear--at least that was the goal. :)

Any questions feel free to ask.

Thanks a ton for fixing the image links! I was able to get in and swap out my door lock pretty easily. The only thing I'd add is that on my older door with a crank window handle, the cover of the handle pops off (it doesn't look like it would) and there's a torx screw underneath. Lots of other vehicles use some kind of C clip around the crank's shaft.

Also, it turns out that somewhere along the line, someone had broken in through the window as there was a ton of glass shards in the bottom of the door. I manage to pull most of them out with a shop-vac.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...cffd86bd8b.jpg
Crank door handle for 1999 Ford E series
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...888593f94e.jpg
Crank door handle for 1999 Ford E series

Good---glad this worked out then!

Its been ages since I've worked on a manual opening door glass---my bad for assuming everyone has power windows. IF you have a few images of removing the interior handle it'd be great sharing them in this thread. I could also add them to those above as I believe this info in in our Tech Folder too.

When I'm replacing a broken door glass once the vacuuming is done I'll open and kinda slam the door closed a few times, even banging gently on the outside to dislodge any pieces caught in the upper parts of the door shell other parts. Nothing more annoying then hearing those little bits bouncing around.

Great write up, thank you..

Book marked..

Thank you for the compliments. :-X22

When I want to save a thread for future reference I subscribe to it so its easily retrieved later. Through the User Control Panel its your choice to receive email notifications if/when new replies are added.

A few of my subscribed threads go back to the first year I joined FTE. :)

THANKS!
I was just going to post a question about removing the door panel. I'm glad I came here first.
Of course, Haynes tells me to remove the screws before they are accessible.
Now maybe I can figure out why the window only goes halfway up.

I don't care one bit for Haynes and/or Chilton's but that's just me---glad parts of what I originally posted was useful.

If the window will only move so far then its possible there is something wrong with the regulator system. Are you removing the door panel to diagnose a problem?