Does The 292 have Solid or Hydraulic Lifters?
 

I have a 1964 F-100 with a 292 V-8. I'm trying to find out if the engine is the solid or hydraulic lifter type?

Thanks

Pretty sure all 292s (Y-Blocks) have solid lifters. I just installed them in a 292 yesterday. They are the last thing to come out of the engine on tear down and the first thing to go into the engine when rebuilding because they install from inside the block right above camshaft. Lash adjustment is made at the rocker arms where they sit on the push rods.

x2: All Y motors are solids.

Thanks , that's what I thought. I had a lifter tap clicking sound coming from the passenger side so I adjusted all the valve lashes to .019 and the clicking got quieter on the passenger side but the drivers side started up a lifter tapping sound. So I reset them to .008 and it got quieter all around , but the sound is still there so I'm thinking maybe the rocker arms are worn.

I am sure you know, but don't leave them set at 0.008. The valve setting is 0.019 both intake and exhaust hot. I have a 1964 f250 (292) and the way I isolated which valve was making the noise was with the engine running, valve cover off, I just pushed rather hard on the rocker arm. When I found the noisy one, pushing on it stopped or almost stopped the clicking. It turned out that the locking nut was worn and would not keep a setting very long.

With y blocks you will not get the lifters completely quiet. Thats just part of the solid lifters.

Glad I found your posts!
 

I just bought 64 Ford F-100 292 V8 and rockers make allot of noise. I was getting ready to pull the valve cover to see if I could do anything about it, so I am happy i found your message thread. On this motor should they all be real quite or is it normal for them to be herd? The motor has about 40 pounds of oil pressure, does not smoke and runs strong, but the rockers are pretty loud. Any advice or where to start would be appreciated, I have never messed with theses before. Thanks Fat Steve

It's normal for the lifters to be heard but they should not be loud. If they are loud, they probably need adjusting. Intake and exhaust are both 0.019. Have you ever adjusted a solid lifter camshaft before? If not, wright back and I will go through the steps for you. It isn't hard.

Adjusting Rockers
 

Hi Gary, you rock pal, thanks for your correspondence! No, I have never adjusted rockers before but my son and I are willing to give it a go. I would gladly accept your advice on how to perform this task pal, I appreciate it.

OK, no problem. I will list the things you will need first.
1. Most likely valve cover gaskets
2. If I remember right, you will need a 1/2" wrench, not a socket (might be 9/16)
3. Screw dirver
4. A "feeler gauge", you can buy them from any auto parts store for a few bucks. This is what you will measure the 0.019 inch with.
5. A socket and handle (3/4") I think to turn the engine over with. There is a bolt in the lower damper pulley that you can put the socket on and turn the engine over with. It will make it a lot easier to turn over if you remove the spark plugs but it is not mandatory.

First thing let the engine warm up than shut if off and remove the valve covers. You will see the rocker arms with push rods on one end and valve springs on the other end. Since both intake and exhaust valves are adjusted the same, you don't have to worry about which is which. There are two rocker arms for each cylinder so we will start either at the front cylinder or the back which ever you want because we are going to adjust each cylinder.

Now look at the rocker arms, you will see a lock nut which is holding a screw in place (this is at the push rod end of the rocker arm). This is where the 1/2" wrench and screw driver come in. Now (this is where you son comes in, ha ha) have him put the socket on the large bolt in the damper pulley and turn the engine over (doesn't make any difference which way he turns the engine) while you watch the rocker arms move up and down on the cylinder that you are going to adjust. You will see the rocker arms "rock" up and down. When the rocker arm is pushing the spring down that is opening the valve. When the valve is closed, i.e. rocker will be up, not pushing on the valve spring at all. What we want is both rocker arms to be in the up position at the same time, not pushing on the valve spring. So have your son turn the engine over until you get both in the up position. When you get there, grab the rocker arm and wiggle it, it should feel slightly loose.

Now we are going to adjust those two valves. Take your feeler gauge and find a 0.019, may have to combine two, example 0.010 plus a 0.009. Try to slide the gauge between the tip of the rocker arm and the top of the valve spring. If the gauge slips easily under the tip of the rocker or the gauge won't even go under the rocker arm than it needs adjusting. The gauge should fit firmly under the rocker arm when it is adjusted correctly. If it needs adjusting, loosen the lock nut about 1/4 turn. With the gauge under the tip of the rocker arm, slowly turn the screw until you can move the gauge back and forth but it is firm. When you have it adjusted you will need to tighten the lock nut down but keep the screw driver in the screw because the screw will turn when the lock nut is turned and you will loose your adjustment. After you have that valve adjusted, do the same for the next valve. Recheck both rockers with the feeler gauge and make sure it still will fit under the tip of the rocker arm and is firm. This completes one cylinder.

Now we will go to the next cylinder. Again, just like above have your son turn the
engine over until both rocker arms are in the up position, not pushing down on the valve springs and repeat the adjustment process as above. When finished with that cylinder, go to the next until you have all adjusted.

After you have them adjusted but before you put the valve covers back on, start the engine. You may need to adjust the idle speed if the valves were way off. After doing that, turn the engine off, go back and retighten the lock nuts, not real tight because in the future you will probably be doing this again. This is just a fact with solid lifters. Put the valve covers back on and YOUR DONE.

It may seem difficult but after one or two cylinders, it won't take you much time at all.

Good luck and have fun with you new old truck.

Gary

PS A tip a long time engine rebuilder gave me. If you are putting new gaskets on the valve covers, take some grease the type you use on u-joints, etc. and place a thin coat on both sides of the gasket. The nest time you have to remove the valve cover, the gasket will probably come off intact and you won't have to buy another set.

For a very small cost but one of the best tools you can buy, the 1964 Ford Shop manual is available through MACS Antique Auto parts. Its small money for thousands of dollars worth of info...