Crank Sensor?
 

I dropped my truck off at a garage here. A buddy of mine runs it for the most part. They work on a lot of powerstrokes. He ran his big computer on my truck after it sit and pulled a code off it for a crank sensor being bad. The reason I dropped it off there is because I was almost sure I have at least one injector bad. I can replace it myself but I don't wanna replace everyone one of them, just the bad ones.

Truck has no loss of power. It doesn't smoke real bad when cold just a little bit at first start. Cranking wise it doesn't take a real long to start up. It is running a later PCM flash. When its cold in the mornings without being plugged in it will take the glow plug light longer to go off, and starts a little rough compared to being plugged in. The buzz noise is a little excessive when its cold but not out of the ordinary. What happens is, it misses a till it warms up and sometimes it'll cut out nothing that I can feel just when my exhaust echos off the buildings but it clears completely up and doesn't happen unless I let the truck get cold again. When its missing under light RPM's it has no loss of power it'll flat get up and go. You can feel it shaking when its in over drive a lot more then when your putting your foot in it to get up to traffic, or with over drive off. Its annoying but there is no engine light on nor has there ever been. It has head studs. EGR is still in place plan on deleting it soon.

The truck doesn't blow coolant out exhaust the turbo spools fine. The only code he was able to pull was a crank sensor. My buddy who had a 6.0 told me that usually the crank sensors points to another issue. So I was still kind of leaning towards injector myself.

My truck is a 2005 F250 with 161k on it. Fuel filters were changed 158k, it has rev-x and 5w40 in it. All motorcraft filters. FICM Voltage was 48V never dropped at all... I do have batteries going bad... and plan on replacing them. I am running Xtreme Street from Eric @ Innovative Diesel.

bad crank sensors are not common. there are a few crank sensor codes as well so have the code as well helps.
but it sounds like either ficm voltage low or injectors

Not ficm... I have heard ****ty batteries can cause problems like this.

Okay he did a injector test they all tested fine. He did a ficm test showed 68v on it solid it passed. He swears its a camshaft position sensor that failed the test... Ideas?

It sounds like the problem I was having....then I changed my cam sensor and it fixed it. At least with it running like it is missing in the morning till it gets warmed up.

Yours missed in the mornings?

Is that a typo? I'm guessing so but figured I'd ask. I learn something new every day on this forum so I shouldn't be surprised if this turns out to be todays lesson.

58v mine is a innovative ficm and yea it was a typo

Yeah mine used to miss in the mornings until it warmed up. Changed the cam sensor and all was good.

Now I am battling a whole new thing where it will start then die...about 3-4 times and then starts and runs great until it sits again for 5-6 hours. I figure it is the hpop seal that is leaking back into the sump.

I was surprised how bad my truck ran with 1 Bad Cell in the battery

symtoms mostly noticed at cold start

I couldnt really tell how bad it ran untill I started it the next morning with the new batterys