super duty front coil springs swap
 

2010 super duty with 5600 pound rated springs in front not lifted would like softer ride like my 2000 f 350 leaf front ford offers other s d springs for 2010 will they fit 4400 4800 5200 ratings do not tow heavy loads just need more than 1 inch of travel on bumpy roads

You should be able to put the softer rated springs in,depending on the engine you have it may sit lower though.

has 5.4 motor just want to get rid of front end bounce front of my truck has always been higher than back

Go to a scale and actually weigh your front axle. Then compare the spring rate list to your front weight, and pick one that's close but still a couple hundred pounds higher. For example, my front axle weight is about 4900#, so I know I couldn't drop down past 5200# coils; my 6000# springs compared to an identical '07 with 5200# springs netted about an inch of lost height. With a 5.4L and no heavy front end accessories you could probably go to the lowest code, but I'd still weigh it first to be sure; I don't think lost height would be a problem unless you're running larger tires, I'd figure an inch lost going from 5600 to 4800. If you do it, get a good pair of shocks to go with the new springs.

Switching them is really easy, you just need a pair of 2+ton floor jacks and a pair of 6ton jack stands (for height, not weight). If you want to do it your self we can walk you through it.

Coils
 

Have spring comp and jacks ready for walk threw on how to

Here's how I did it:

Measure from the apex of the wheel well arch to the ground and write it down somewhere.

You need to get the frame on jackstands, I put a pair of 6 ton stands on the frame directly behind the radius arms, but you could put them under the front frame horns also. The stands weren't as tall as I wanted/needed, so I build a pair of cribs by sandwiching two layers of 2x4s between two pieces of 1/4" plywood. Make them somewhat larger than the footprint of the jackstands so that they're stable. Put the jacks under the front axle and lift until the tires are a solid 3-6 inches off the ground. Put the stands in place and lower the jacks until the frame is solidly on the stands but there is still some axle weight on the jacks.

Remove the wheels. Disconnect the sway bar links from the axle by removing the lower nut. Disconnect the lower shock mounts. Remove the brake line brackets attached to the coil buckets and the brake caliper mounting brackets and tie them somewhere to the frame to where there is zero weight hanging from the brake line. There's a line bolted to the top of the differential that I also had to remove, I can't remember what it was off the top of my head but it was a single bolt through a wire bracket holding a tube. I did both sides at once so that the axle dropped evenly and the truck stayed evenly on the jackstands.

Lower the jacks until the springs are loose in their mountings (a long way down). Be incredibly mindful of the vacuum lines and ABS wires going to the knuckle, and if they get even remotely tight, remove them also. You can try to use the spring compressors to take up some of the slack, but don't put the compressors on when there's any weight on the spring. You aren't going to reinstall the springs you're removing, so you have to be able to remove the spring compressor later, which you won't be able to do if you can't let the spring completely extend while the compressors are still in one piece. I didn't need compressors because the frame was high enough and the jacks went low enough to just let them slide out on their own. Remove the upper isolators and install on the new springs, making sure you align them correctly.

Install the new springs into the truck, making sure you line them up correctly into the lower perch mount.

Raise the jacks until the springs begin taking some of the weight (you want the jackstands to be solidly in place still), to the point you can reattach the lower shock mounts, sway bar links, brake line bracket, brake calipers, and whatever else you removed. Torque caliper mounts to 166 ft-lbs, and sway bar links to 59 ft-lbs. Lower shock mount is 111 ft-lbs.

Reinstall the wheels. Now raise the jacks high enough to pull the jack stands, and set the truck down. Torque the lug nuts to 150 ft-lbs before you set the truck down all the way onto the tires.

Get an alignment check done. Remeasure and post all the measurements and springs rates back here so we can know how much height you lost, and what the felt change in ride was :-X22

Tools I used:
Two 3 ton floor jacks
Two 6 ton jack stands with
Two cribs (as described above) about 16"x20"

Pics:
The vertical stick in the front is the sway bar link with the lower nut removed:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=23348
The very new black part is a leveling kit done through a lower perch spacer. Same exact process you're doing, except the additional step of installing the spacer.

From front to back the vac line, abs wire, and brake line. The brake line bracket is the silver metal part at the top of the pic:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=23658
For some reason in this picture I removed the caliper slide bolts instead of the mounting bolts, and the caliper hadn't been correctly tied out of the way (the line is stretched too far for my liking)
(you can also see a crib under the jackstand. This is a smaller/taller one to use under the front frame horns. It wasn't nearly as stable as I liked so that's why I started putting the stands behind the radius arms on a shorter/larger crib)

Here's another similar type install (going up instead of down, but the same type of spring swap):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...long-post.html
He removed the trac bar to add a bracket, which is not needed for your application.

There's a chance that there are some differences between your '10 and the '06/'07 years used in this write up. The process in general will be the same, but some things might be slightly different. Just use your head and don't shortcut anything.

Kudos on the detailed writeup, texasTechDiesel! I've got 4800's on my gasser, and if I get a truck camper or plow I'll swap them for 52s or 56s, your writeup makes it easy to follow.

Cheers
Ord

Thanks!

I used to live just up I-25 in Parker :-X22

anyone know what spring weights a '13 F250 4wd 6.2L with the camper package would have. They are supposed to be a "1 up" over factory selected stock springs.

Parts code tag on the spring.

Weight rating on the GVWR sticker on the driver's door jamb.

-blaine

thanks, the tag on the coil says 5AF and 5C34 right below it, then 5310-AFC. I'll have to look on the door jamb and see what it says.

Whatever the sticker on the drivers door says for front axle weight is what the springs are, probably 5,600 lbs in your application. F250s typically top out at 6,000 lb front springs with the snow plow package, camper package is one step below that.

Thanks for the writeup and the pics! I just did mine today, swapping from 6000# to 5600#. It took me an hour to get the front of the truck jacked up and then only two more hours to finish the job.

Spring swap advice
 

I have a 2009 f250 4x4 with the 5,600 pound springs and the 3v V10. It rides so rough that I am ready to have a softer ride. The truck has the plow package from the previous owner, but I will never run a plow on this truck so I don't want the heavier springs. I realize it's a solid front axle, I've ridden in and drove many solid front axle trucks and this one is by far the stiffest IMO.

What would you all recommend?

I was thinking the 4,800 springs should make for a nice ride.

The issue I am having with deciding on springs is that it has 2.5 inch spacers over the front coils. Combine that with the v10 (as opposed to the diesel) and the snow plow front end, and I have myself a 3-3.5 inch lift. With the offset and width on my wheels, I need the height that I have now which I am afraid I will lose with 4,800 pound springs.

What to do!!!

You could use progressive rate lift coils, Icon sells a 2.5" pair of front springs that will ride a lot nicer than OEM coils. Pair those with a 1" TEI spacer you should stay right aroung +3.5" of lift.

If you don't want fancy coil springs, a good way to choose the OEM spring rate is to go weigh the truck on a scale. Put in the next highest coils that cover where you are at what you consider "loaded".