Gear Box & Hose Replacement for Dummies
This is a write up of replacing my gear box and hoses on 2000 Ford Excursion V10 4x4.
Items Needed: 2 1/2 Quarts of ATF - I used regular Synthetic Thread Lock - Red and Blue Velcro Strap or Zip Ties - to hold the tie rod Drain Pan Red Head Gear Box Gates 365437 Return Hose 15mm Head Gates 352860 Pressure Hose 16mm Head Ft Lb Torque Wrench - range from 36ft lbs to 199ft lbs 34mm socket - pitman arm to gear bolt 21mm socket - ptman arm to drag link bolt 8mm socket - battery cable 13mm socket - gear box upper set bolt 14mm socket - wheel well bolts 15mm wrench - return hose set bolt 16mm wrench - pressure hose set bolt Ratchet Breaker Bar - biggest one you got PB Blaster Standard Screwdriver Pry Bar Mallet *Bench Vise *Impact gun *Torch *Dead blow hammer and or a sledge (I had someone else remove my pitman arm from the box a their shop but if you are doing this yourself you are going to need the * items or something similar) My gearbox before I started https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116704 My new redhead box waiting to get installed https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116769 Step 1 I left my truck on the ground until this was done, but if you need the room raise and support the vehicle on jackstands. Turn the ignition to run so the steering wheel is free, then disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 8 mm socket. Take the drivers side seat belt and wrap it through the steering wheel then buckle it, then take the passenger side belt and loop it through the drivers belt and fasten it also. This will keep the steering wheel centered. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116847 Step 2 Remove the air filter housing on top the engine by removing the flip up clamp and the hose clamp by the throttle body, then strap it out of your way. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116881 Step 3 Under the truck secure loosely the front steering arm that attaches to the pitman arm to the tie rod. Then remove the cotter pin from the top of the pitman arm nut by bending the clip and sliding it out. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116848 Using a 21mm socket and breaker bar, break lose the nut holding the pitman arm and remove it. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116849 Step 4 Place a pitman arm puller on top of the pitman arm and turn the screw until the pitman arm pops off. Be sure it is tied or you have a hold of it before it pops loose. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116850 Then tighten up the straps and leave it while you do the install. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116851 Pitman arm disconnected from the drag link end https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116852 I replaced my hoses as well it was easiest to disconnect from the bottom and drain into a pan before moving to the top side. Here is where they connect on the bottom. All you need is a screw driver or a pair of pliers depending on how yours are held on. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116854 Step 5 From topside slide the cover off the steering gear connection https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116856 Here is the hose routing from the top if you are replacing your hoses. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116853 Then remove the two hose line bolts on the top side, mine were 15mm and 16mm sizes, and pull the lines out and remove (again this if you are replacing hoses), if not then you can clamp a hose over the ends and avoid losing all your fluid. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116855 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116858 With a 13mm socket, extension and breaker bar I removed the 13mm nut. It took some convincing with PB Blaster and screamed all the way out still. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116857 Pry the upper shaft off the gear box using a pry bar. Then push it up out of the way. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116859 Step 6 From the driver's side wheel well remove the 14mm anchor bolts that hold the gear box. 14 mm socket and breaker bar again. I never used a ratchet on this step, took the breaker bar every turn all the way out, but as you can see I had some rust issues on the old box. When you get to the last bolt have someone hold the box so it doens't crash to the ground when you pull the last bolt free. Mine was so stuck it just sat there held by rust and I had to give a smack with a mallet to get it free. It's really heavy! https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116861 Step 7 (this probably applies only to my case) but I took the opportunity to clean up the area under and around the box that I couldn't reach while doing rust grinding and painting this summer. Before view https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116860 After view https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116843 Step 8 Get the old pitman arm and nut off the box you just removed. I don't have much advice for you on this one, but others have said a bench vice, impact, and/or brut force. It's torqued to 199ft lbs which is 99 more lbs than I got to give, so I took mine to a friends shop and in two minutes he had it off and impacted back onto my new box. I replaced my pitman arm as well. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116866 Here they both are (before and after) note the orientation of the arm on the box. Same in both pictures. This is important, you don't want to remove that thing twice. Pitman arm has set groves so you can only put it on 4 ways, just make sure you note how your old one is before you take it off. My redhead box came centered correctly so if you are installing another box that isn't centered, please figure that out and don't rely on these instructions unless you are sure your box is centered already. Old one https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116759 New one TIP** - Remove the packing on the end before you put it in the truck, it's a real pain to get off once it's installed. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116812 Step 9 Have someone position the box and insert the bottom front bolt first. Put thread lock (Red) on the threads and tighten by hand, then rotate box up into position and do the other two bolts. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116868 Then torque all three bolts to 59ft lbs. The shaft that goes into the upper stearing arm has a flat edge that corresponds with a flat grove on the shaft. These were both on the bottom when I reinstalled. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116870 Push it on (I did have to jiggle my steering wheel just a tad to get it lined up before I could push it on because of the flat spot pictured above, my steering wheel was held really tight and I didn't unhook it to do this I just had a friend get in an move it a fraction so I could line up the groves - it took some growling to get it just right) then tap it down onto the box, then torque the bolt back to 36 ft lbs with (blue) thread lock. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116869 Reinstall your lines (new or old ones) back into the gearbox. BE SURE each line has a small rubber o-ring on the end before tigthening the bolts. Then slide the shaft shield back down and clip it on the upper hose. TIP: Install the lower hose first, if you do the upper hose first it makes it really hard to get the lower hose under it and to thread properly. Ask me how I know this? Step 10 Remove the straps holding the drag link to the tie rod and tap the pitman arm back onto the drag link, then reinstall the nut and torque to 66ft lbs and replace the cotter pin. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116871 Then regrease your drag link. All of mine pushed out removing the pitman arm. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116880 Step 11 Add two quarts of ATF to the tank and check for leaks. I didn't raise my truck until this point, jack the truck up and support front with stands, release the seatbelts holding the steering wheel and make sure the wheel is centered. Reconnect the battery cable and start the truck, then turn wheel lock to lock about 10 times holding no more than 2 seconds at each lock. Your tank fluid will turn pink! This is the air bleeding up out of the system. I let it settle for a few minutes then checked my level - added about 1/4 more quart to top it off. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116882 Then lowered the truck and admired my new steering box, then put my air filter housing back where it belongs. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=116821 |
Great write up, reps to you!!
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Added to the tech folder sticky. Which reminds me, I REALLY need to finish the last little bit of revamp to the tech folder.
It would be nice to have one of the PSD guys do one too so we can compare and see what's different, if anything. Stewart |
THANK YOU (rep present @ the moment)
I sure hope you didn't create this thread - JUST for me!? :-drink I've been looking @ renting/buying a pitman puller... waiting to see how "big" of one I need... |
Originally Posted by Kdr358
(Post 12565832)
Great write up, reps to you!!
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
(Post 12565875)
Added to the tech folder sticky. Which reminds me, I REALLY need to finish the last little bit of revamp to the tech folder.
It would be nice to have one of the PSD guys do one too so we can compare and see what's different, if anything. Stewart
Originally Posted by Misky6.0
(Post 12566035)
THANK YOU (rep present @ the moment)
I sure hope you didn't create this thread - JUST for me!? :-drink I've been looking @ renting/buying a pitman puller... waiting to see how "big" of one I need... And yep all for you. |
Awesome write up.... About how long did it take?
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Awesome write up Sammie, Something I have never done but will be more comfy performing when I get the time hopefully soon.
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Originally Posted by skrinar70
(Post 12567275)
Awesome write up.... About how long did it take?
Gear box install five hours total time working on it. With a pause of about 4 hours in the middle of that process to deal with the rust and waiting for paint to dry. So actual time that day was 9 hours. On the gear box the hardest and longest part for me was getting bolts loose but that's been a recurring issue on this truck as this was the last rusted piece to go on the suspension/steering. The wheel well bolts were even broken off with an impact wrench the day before and tightened back up just enough to get me home (by a friend at his shop). Didnt' matter though, I still had to use a breaker bar, a piece of pipe and some words that my daddy would blush at, and then for every turn after it broke I still had to use the bar (less the pipe), reset turn again, 6 in bolts screamed all the way out, times three. The 13mm bolt on top wasn't much better. It won't be that hard for most people, but it's par for the course on my truck with most bolts. I have spots of my blood dried in several places that I've left there as a memento. :) Me and the advil bottle been friends today. |
I have spots of my blood dried in several places that I've left there as a memento.
New form of rust protection? :-wink |
Right on time, my steering box just arrived today so weekend job coming up.
Is there any procedure required to make sure the box is centered before attaching the steering, drag link and Pitman arm? |
Originally Posted by AzSuperDuty
(Post 12567451)
Right on time, my steering box just arrived today so weekend job coming up.
Is there any procedure required to make sure the box is centered before attaching the steering, drag link and Pitman arm? Gears have just 4 options for placement due to the pitman arm vs gear box groves. Redhead says all boxes leave there centered on the inside, so you will have full movement in both directions. If your steering wheel stays put and you tie up your rod arm and don't jack it around and somehow turn the adjusting sleeve. You check your box goes in with the same orientation that it came out with the Pitman arm in the same one of the 4 positions.... Then you should end up in the same placed you started. I did - my wheel is dead on centered just like it was before the swap. Maybe someone who knows real facts will chime in but that's the "common sense" sit down and think about it conclusion I came to yesterday. |
S,
That is really what I wanted to hear. I haven't pulled mine part or taken the "packing" material, which I originally thought was a huge chunk of meat slid onto the shaft... (having 8 dogs and 5 cats makes you think that way) off the RedHead box to orient myself. Thanks for pictures and directions. My wife is real impressed that I'm actually going to follow directions given by a woman. I don't think she believes that I am that trainable! :-blah |
Originally Posted by AzSuperDuty
(Post 12567713)
S,
That is really what I wanted to hear. I haven't pulled mine part or taken the "packing" material, which I originally thought was a huge chunk of meat slid onto the shaft... (having 8 dogs and 5 cats makes you think that way) off the RedHead box to orient myself. Thanks for pictures and directions. My wife is real impressed that I'm actually going to follow directions given by a woman. I don't think she believes that I am that trainable! :-blah |
Originally Posted by jamesbfishin
(Post 12567395)
I have spots of my blood dried in several places that I've left there as a memento.
New form of rust protection? :-wink |
Originally Posted by sammie0126
(Post 12567741)
LOL but women are much better at following directions, asking for directions and probably writing directions. Most men I know take the directions and toss them in the trash and then get started. :)
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nice,wish I had that write up & pics when I did mine.
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
(Post 12565875)
It would be nice to have one of the PSD guys do one too so we can compare it with Christina's V10 install and see what's different, if anything.
Christina's Red Head Install how-to thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12565770 Stewart So the steps are pretty much the same as Sammie's setup and here are some of the pics I took. First, I disconnected the negative connection on the batteries. I use a fitting for a drip system from rainbird. It fits perfectly over the battery terminal and the cable fitting fits right over it. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a9b6513fc4.jpg Here are the parts that need to be removed on the drivers side in order to get good access to the steering box. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...62fdbeec51.jpg Here is what it looks like with all the pieces removed. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5506391ec5.jpg Once removed you have clear access to all the fitting needed. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e97a4de087.jpg At this point everything lines up with Christina's instructions for the removal of the steering box. Here I am pulling the steering link off the pitman arm. Unlike Christina, I can't wooo anybody to pull off the pitman arm for me so I had to pull it myself. Also my regular pitman puller was to small so I had to pull out the big boy to pull off the pitman arm. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0e87e0d97d.jpg Here it is all back together....almost. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8c5237bb95.jpg My steering was pretty good before I started but it was still missing being comfortable to drive. First impressions... My steering stays straight and right on track. I am able to feel the road bumps a bit more, but I may be able to change that by adjusting my Rancho's. At fwy speeds it also tracks very straight. I was surprised that my steering wheel is straight on when prior to the install it was slightly to the left a bit. I did not get a chance to put myself in a situation where I know that I have had issues in the past. One issue I am having is that I am getting a whine in my power steering pump which is also noisy with braking since they use the same reservoir. I assume its air in the line which takes time to get out I guess. Also, I think my transmission shifts better..ok not really . Tim M |
Originally Posted by timf150
(Post 12574987)
Unlike Sammie, I can't wooo anybody to pull off the pitman arm for me so I had to pull it myself. Also my regular pitman puller was to small so I had to pull out the big boy to pull off the pitman arm. Haha - I am a "special customer" of the guy who pulled it off for me, spent some coin at this shop over the last year. AND that is one bad A*& puller! |
Well just got back from a weekend road trip to Michigan for grandma's 90th birthday party and a few observations on how it drives.
1. Took some getting used to on the highway, I only have to move 1/2 - 1" to change lanes instead of 3". That was "interesting" the first few miles and was a good thing there were no police around while I worked through it. Turns so much easier that it was almost scary at 75mph but once I got used to it, it felt great. 2. It turns much better in tight turns than it did, no more binding. This was probably from my own tightening of the old "hunk of dung'. 3. Feeling bumps in concrete highways more than I did, not any wheel movement just feel them more - not sure what that is about. 4. Feeling a little pull at high speeds on banked surfaces - left lane of highway at 75mph. I think I need an alignment, which I didn't do after the new tires because I knew the gearbox was next up. Not bad but I think i might be dog tracking a bit, which probably has more to do with the wider rims and larger tires than the gearbox but this was it's first road trip since all three were done so hard to tell. Ohhh and the fun part - somehow the new gearbox smoked a rear wheel bearing! Hahaha just kidding really but I got a rear sound that is an unmistakable drivers side rear wheel bearing. Kind of knew that was coming, suspected it a couple times lately when I heard a funny noise. Already did the front hubs and rear was close but hadn't made the top of the list yet. Well it leapfrogged into 1st place today. So the good news is.... upcoming next week is a "Inner/Outer Rear Wheel Bearings - for Dummies". Going to use the "wooo" and call in some help w/real tools for that project which will hopefully take place next weekend. |
Originally Posted by sammie0126
(Post 12577272)
Well just got back from a weekend road trip to Michigan for grandma's 90th birthday party and a few observations on how it drives.
1. Took some getting used to on the highway, I only have to move 1/2 - 1" to change lanes instead of 3". That was "interesting" the first few miles and was a good thing there were no police around while I worked through it. Turns so much easier that it was almost scary at 75mph but once I got used to it, it felt great. 2. It turns much better in tight turns than it did, no more binding. This was probably from my own tightening of the old "hunk of dung'. 3. Feeling bumps in concrete highways more than I did, not any wheel movement just feel them more - not sure what that is about. 4. Feeling a little pull at high speeds on banked surfaces - left lane of highway at 75mph. I think I need an alignment, which I didn't do after the new tires because I knew the gearbox was next up. Not bad but I think i might be dog tracking a bit, which probably has more to do with the wider rims and larger tires than the gearbox but this was it's first road trip since all three were done so hard to tell. Ohhh and the fun part - somehow the new gearbox smoked a rear wheel bearing! Hahaha just kidding really but I got a rear sound that is an unmistakable drivers side rear wheel bearing. Kind of knew that was coming, suspected it a couple times lately when I heard a funny noise. Already did the front hubs and rear was close but hadn't made the top of the list yet. Well it leapfrogged into 1st place today. So the good news is.... upcoming next week is a "Inner/Outer Rear Wheel Bearings - for Dummies". Going to use the "wooo" and call in some help w/real tools for that project which will hopefully take place next weekend. For #3 i know what you mean. I also mentioned i could feel the road more. |
Originally Posted by timf150
(Post 12577753)
For #3 i know what you mean. I also mentioned i could feel the road more.
Was just reading through the posts from yesterday on this thread and saw that, be interested to see if anyone else is "feeling that" after the install. Tried to rep you on the great photos but I got that "spread it around" thingy. Great photos though. Took me about 10 minutes of looking to figure out wth your hitch vice thing was, that's awesome. I have no where in my garage to mount a bench vice. Got to get me one of those! |
Great write-up, Sammie!
I don't know when I'll get to mine and it'll be spring before I can road test it. I did get the parts pulled off the old box today though with my dad's help. It was the nut in your step #3 that killed me. This one was already a re-manufactured box and nothing was rusty at all, surprisingly. But someone must have put that nut on with an impact. Had to heat it with a torch, use a big chissel to split open the nut some, and then finally got it off with an impact. Tried to put vise-grips on the shaft inside the grease balloon, but it just kept spinning. At least it all came off. The pitman arm was the easy part! |
you can mount the vice to a 2x2 tubing and install in your reciever hitch of your x,it will be a little low to the ground unless you get a little creative.but better than nothing.
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Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
(Post 12577952)
Great write-up, Sammie!
I don't know when I'll get to mine and it'll be spring before I can road test it. I did get the parts pulled off the old box today though with my dad's help. It was the nut in your step #3 that killed me. This one was already a re-manufactured box and nothing was rusty at all, surprisingly. But someone must have put that nut on with an impact. Had to heat it with a torch, use a big chissel to split open the nut some, and then finally got it off with an impact. Tried to put vise-grips on the shaft inside the grease balloon, but it just kept spinning. At least it all came off. The pitman arm was the easy part! Something occurred to me today while on my road trip and I really don't know the answer. The original instructions state (by Monster-4) to turn the key to run to release the wheel then to strap it down so it doesn't move. Doing that common sense thing again and got to ask "why not just leave it locked"?? I mean I did have to jiggle the wheel at the very end to tap the shaft back on but up to that point wouldn't it be easier to leave it locked so it can't move the centering of the steering wheel? There some reason why is has to be unlocked? |
Originally Posted by sammie0126
(Post 12577843)
Was just reading through the posts from yesterday on this thread and saw that, be interested to see if anyone else is "feeling that" after the install. Tried to rep you on the great photos but I got that "spread it around" thingy. Great photos though. Took me about 10 minutes of looking to figure out wth your hitch vice thing was, that's awesome. I have no where in my garage to mount a bench vice. Got to get me one of those!
Tim M |
Originally Posted by sammie0126
(Post 12578025)
Something occurred to me today while on my road trip and I really don't know the answer. The original instructions state (by Monster-4) to turn the key to run to release the wheel then to strap it down so it doesn't move. Doing that common sense thing again and got to ask "why not just leave it locked"?? I mean I did have to jiggle the wheel at the very end to tap the shaft back on but up to that point wouldn't it be easier to leave it locked so it can't move the centering of the steering wheel? There some reason why is has to be unlocked?
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Knocked mine out yesterday. Things went pretty well. Was going to replace the hoses but mine were in such good shape couldn't see changing them out. So I did have to run to town and pickup some new O-rings as I didn't want to reuse the ones on the lines.
Pitman Arm to box gave me FITS! Finally got it off my driving two drifts (wedge principle) between the box and the underside of the pitman arm while using the puller as well to get it to release. Now got the old box "hanging" in the vice like a trophy deer trying to get all the fluid to drain out. No problem with any other fittings. Having an X that came out of California... I pulled the steering shaft off the box by hand. |
4 Attachment(s)
Yee Haw, temps in the 60's, sunny, got a movin' on mine too - Red Head Day Part uno.
uhh.. ditto on the pitman arm.:-arrgh On the bright side the pump comes out easily, but that pulley is another bully.:( |
Now that is one serious pipe breaker bar! How long is it?
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I sleave a 3' copper pipe over a 4' black pipe. With that much leverage it's easy to break cheap tools. Napa was too busy yesterday to get to my work - hopefully today.
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3 Attachment(s)
A few more pic's from Day 2...
Pic 2 - while you're in the neighborhood, check the 2 smaller radatior hoses to the oil filter, mine's gettin' thin where they rest on the engine cross member. Pic 3 is the crux move; balance the box in one hand while lining up the bolt in t'other; either a forearm building exercise or profanity prelim! |
Wow, that steering box was an ambitious undertaking. Another great write-up and you got a spot in the Tech folder! Amazing, and tribute to all women. :-X22
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Originally Posted by EXv10
(Post 12696198)
Wow, that steering box was an ambitious undertaking. Another great write-up and you got a spot in the Tech folder! Amazing, and tribute to all women. :-X22
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Just a BUMP for those of us who participated in the latest group buy. Mine should be here this weekend! :-jammin
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Just thought I would add the post numbers since this thread covers gas engines, differences in the install for diesels and another follow up post or two on things not covered in the original post (like pulling the pitman arm). Good luck everyone with your installs.
Gas Engines - post 1 Diesel Engine differences - post 17 Removing Pitman arm - post 28 |
Can't add to the rep., but had to try ;)
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Originally Posted by Apocalypse
(Post 12921364)
Can't add to the rep., but had to try ;)
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Originally Posted by sammie0126
(Post 12920872)
Just thought I would add the post numbers since this thread covers gas engines, differences in the install for diesels and another follow up post or two on things not covered in the original post (like pulling the pitman arm). Good luck everyone with your installs.
Gas Engines - post 1 Diesel Engine differences - post 17 Removing Pitman arm - post 28 |
Originally Posted by Apocalypse
(Post 12921364)
Can't add to the rep., but had to try ;)
Originally Posted by EXv10
(Post 12922362)
Me too but she sure knocked it out of the park.
Originally Posted by EXv10
(Post 12922367)
Sammie; careful with those tight fittings in the future, it's easy to round them off and then it's "break out the vice grips". They have fitting wrenches that grab more of the fitting and never round it off.
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Is this only for 4WD? Or is it the same for 2WD?
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