1963 F100 Unibody
 

Hi everyone,
I am new to the forum, and to classic Ford trucks. I understand that this forum is a valuable tool, so thanks in advance for all and any help!
I recently purchased a 1963 F100. It has a 292 Y block in it, with a manual 3 speed transmission, shifted on the column. Most everything appears to be original. From what I understand, it sat in a barn for 15 years before the guy I bought it from did as little as possible to get it running. He used it around his farm for a while. The only issue he said he had was dirt in the fuel tank clogging up the fuel pump.
I live around 80 miles from where I bought it, and was able to drive it home with no issues. On the next trip, a few blocks from home, it would not go into gear. I have ordered the shifter linkage bushings at the bottom of the steering column to see if that fixes the problem. If it doesn't, what else do I need to look for?
Also, what do I need to do to be sure it is road worthy? It needs new tires, the radiator seems to have a small leak, The oil is new and clean. I am pretty handy mechanically, but do not know much about these trucks.
Thanks to all in advance.
Sam

I replaced the shifter linkage bushings and still nothing. It seems like it is shifting alright, just not going into gear. I even tried to put it in gear by engaging it under the hood, then start it and it still is going nowhere. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Sam

toasted clutch?

When you say it won't go into gear is that any gear. Is the shifter moving to where it should be in gear or stopping short. Have you checked the shift levers on the tranny?

When I get under the hood and move the shifter levers, it seems to be going into gear the way it's supposed to. When it's running, it just won't go.

Sounds like your clutch has let go. Does the clutch pedal feel normal and have some free play? Any noises as you operate it with the engine running?

The clutch pedal feels normal, but doesn't have any free play. It isn't making any noise with it running.

Adjust the clutch by shortening the rod that pushes the clutch fork on the driver side of the bellhousing until you have 1/3 of the pedal travel freeplay. If that fixes it yeah. If not you most likely need to replace the clutch.

Thank you so much for the help. I'll try the adjustment this afternoon!

I'm shortening the rod by a 1/4" then checking to see if it helps. I've done that 5 times and no change. So I've shortened it a total of 1-1/4". Should I keep going? Or is that enough to tell me to replace the clutch?
Thanks,
Sam

Thats more than enough. Your clutch has died. Whats your confidence level of doing it yourself. Be happy to walk you through it.

Hey cobraguy, thanks! I think I'm going to try it. Do you have any recommendations for parts? I've been looking at the 3-in-1 clutch kit in the LMC catalog. Also, is there anything else that I should do while I have the tranny pulled? I do have a shop manual coming in the next few day. I hope that will help as well.

A shop manual is a must for first time doing anything. Borg Warner sells complete kits at the name brand parts stores. Now would be a good time to change the gear oil in the rear axle and tranny.

OK. Finally received the shop manual and supplement. I'm going to disassemble today. How do I tell what size the clutch is? Is it the physical size of the disk?
Thanks

I removed the driveshaft and transmission without any issues. My question is, how do I remove the pressure plate and cover? The manual doesn't say anything about having to actually remove the clutch housing. The clutch housing has the back two motor mounts attached to it. Am I going to have to support the engine to remove the clutch housing, or is there another way to do this?
Thanks,
Sam