Number Geniuses - Axle Tag ID help!!!
 

Hey guys,
I've been searching around trying to sort this out myself, but I've reached my limits. I'm looking at buying an F350 for a Dana 60 swap under my F250HD. Basically I'm going to take the F350 specific stuff off and put it on my truck and make the F350 a F250. This plan only works well if the ratios are the same though. The axle code on the door is obliterated and all I have is the axle tag. I'm still trying to sort out if the code he sent me is from the rear axle or the front. Here is what I have to work with:

V126A
5510 2 6A31

Thanks!

Real quick, I'll bet there's a 3 in front of the 55 but it's hidden underneath a bolt or sumthin.

Feel like havin' at it, Kev?

Another real quick one....

If your downgrading involves downsizing the brakes, that's illegal to do and could get you into a lot of trouble when you go to the DMV for an inspection/certification and new VIN.

You know, if I blow the picture up, it looks like it is possible that there is something before the 55, and I'd love to believe it was a 3! The truck is a 4 speed with a carb'd 460, just like my F250HD was, so I was really thinking it would be. If it is, I can do the swap and turn the truck right back onto the road and hopefully recoup most all of my money!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but my F250HD with the Dana 50 TTB should have exactly the same front brakes as the Dana 60? Dual caliper discs up front? I would be leaving the rear axle completely intact, but it too should have the same full-float 10.25, as mine is an HD 250 model.

He just sent me some more info and it appears that the front axle is tagged 3.54, the ratio I am looking for! It needs a clutch, which I already have and an exhaust manifold gasket, which I also have. He's asking $1500 OBO which seems pretty reasonable. The body is solid, but obviously not perfect. I'm thinking I couldn't go too wrong on resale if I swap suspension across and resell the truck?

I may be misunderstanding you.... you presently own a F250, want to buy a F350 for parts, this is where I get confused.

In any event, on the outset your plan sounds like it might be good but I don't know for certain... IIRC there are over a dozen different variations of spindles & hubs listed in the parts book for these trucks, and I would never go out on a limb without first thoroughly investigating and tell anyone that "the parts between the two models are the same." There are just waaaaaaaaaaaay too many variations & possibilities IMHO to say that.

It's when you change the GVWR that issues with taxes & licensing come into play, and apparently downgrading requires all sorts of bureaucracy and paperwork and Salvage (or built-from-parts) titles and whatnot. Ask your local DMV to be certain, I'd just hate to see you or a future owner find themselves in a world of hurt.

Lessee if Kevin is willing to go look up your tag numbers (which are preferable to door codes, anyway)....

According to another website, V126A is a 3.55 NL 10.25" rear for 85-86 F250, F350.

I wonder what "NL" is. If the axle has limited slip, it should be listed as 3 L 55 on the tag.

You reading any of this, Kevin?

Correct, I currently own an F250HD, with a Dana 50 TTB front axle. I want to convert to a solid front axle, the Dana 60 that was found under the front of the same model year F350. I've done a pretty decent amount of background research into this and from the knuckles out, the Dana 50 and Dana 60 use the same parts, including brake size etc. I know for a fact that the rear springs are the same and only the spring blocks differentiate between an F350 and an F250HD. The F350's had 4" blocks from the factory versus 2.5" blocks in F250's. I don't know about non-HD F250's, but the HD F250's shared the Sterling 10.25 full float rear axle with the F350. Therefore, the only potential difference should lie in the front springs and whether or not there is a difference in GAWR?

It would be a nice bonus if it were the limited slip rear axle, in that case I'd pull the limited slip unit out and put it in my rear end.
Unfortunately I think I'm going to have a few more lumps on my head! I verbally agreed to buy the truck from the seller. The wife really wants to have the Dodge from my Cummins conversion gone first, so I'm hoping I can wrap that up before having to tell her about the F350! Too good of a deal, with the correct ratio, to pass it up. I make it tough, but she's pretty understanding all and all.

This is what I've found in the Master Parts Catalog

The V126A is, like what Bill stated, a Sterling Ford axle 3.55.

Cross referencing this it was used in the 85/86 F250 10.25 Non Locker....that's probaly what the "NL" stands for.

Part # E5TW 4006-JA

I have heard the front springs on the f350 are softer than the ttb front springs. You might want to check this out. They say the dana 60 has a rougher ride if you use the ttb front springs.

You may end up changing around the front yoke on the transfer case also, to let the front driveshaft bolt up. The ttb uses a regular slip joint front driveshaft while the dana 60 frontend uses a double cardon joint type driveshaft. Some of them have a flange mount coming out of the transfer case.

Thanks for the research guys, the gear ratio is a match from what the seller found and what you guys were able to help me with.

Franklin, from what I've found you would be correct. It appears that the GAWR of the F250 springs is about 100# less per spring, or 400# total, but they have a stiffer spring rate to accomodate the different movement of the TTB, versus a solid axle. I am planning to swap the springs over as well, so I will end up with an F350 for all practical purposes. I also plan to swap the rear spring blocks over, so essentially I will get about 1-1.5" of lift over my current ride height to boot. My F250 will become an F350 and the 350 a 250. I'm going to put my TTB back under the F350 and then sell off the F3/250. I'm buying the complete truck for $1350, so you can't beat that. He says it needs a clutch and has a leaking exhaust manifold gasket. So, I'll take the pieces I want, put it back together, fix the clutch and exhaust leak and I can't see any way I don't easily recoup all my money and probably make a little!

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