The ball joint broke at 70MPH with my wife and 3 kids in the back. Luckily it broke on the passenger side so we skidded off the road instead of into oncoming traffic :eek:

How's it coming in the new year?

I am making progress. The truck is a roller, but not all of my work is permanent. I have to get the weight of the motor and the cab on the front to properly set the caster. I need get the drivetrain in before I can set my driveline angle.

Next step is to set up the steering and and build the motor mounts. I am in the midst of an emergency move to a new place right now (pipes were bursting everywhere at my current rental and no water will be flowing until Spring). Good news is that the new house has a sweet garage with a 8' tall garage door. It will make a great paint booth :-missingt:D

I am needing some advice from all you experienced Ford gurus. I have the correct polyurethane body/radiator support bushings for my truck, but need new body mount sleeves since my old ones were rusted together and had to be cut off.

I have come up with one option so far - I don't like it.

1. Mill a unfinished piece of steel tubing to fit the bushing sleeve area where the bolt goes through and buy large enough washers to cover the bushing. I already stopped by Alcan Spring and inquired about finding a busing insert that is close enough to fit my body mount bushings, but no such luck.

There has to be a better (easier) way. I know that I am not the first guy to run into this. Those body mount sleeves are always rusted shut and are nearly impossible to remove intact. Bronco Graveyard has sleeves for the 1973-1979 trucks, but they are WAY OVERPRICED - plus they probably wouldn't even fit.

Suggestions?

looking good man.... keep it up. glad u and the fam are ok from the tire coming off... keep up the good work.

I don't see why you can just make them. Chasetruck fabbed them for his crew and there are some pics in his thread. What page????? I don't know but I remember seeing pics.
Send him a pm and he might be able to give you a page estimate.

now i like this idea. this i really clever idea and i could do that and get a headliner stereo mount for my build.

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This truck is going to be tall. Add 4 1/2 inches for 40" tires (currently has 31" stock tires on it) and a inch or two less for sag once the motor is in. The rear of the frame is not set at the correct ride hight yet. It will be getting custom springs once the drive train and cab are on.

Can anyone post the measurement from the ground to the bottom of their frame on a stock Highboy with 31" tall tires? I am wanting to see what the actual lift is by using the 6" Superduty lift springs in the front.

Unfortunately it's a common occurance anymore with these little cars. If you don't jack them up and really wiggle stuff you just don't know that it's "bad enough" and then it falls apart.............at the worst time.

Glad no one was hurt.

She has a new home :-X04

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Any Updates?

Finally some progress. Finances have been tight, but I sold the '79 F350 to help fund this project along for a while.

I had the high steer arms milled out at the machine shop (don't use a drill press on these - mill them) to 3/4" to match the heim joints from Ruff Stuff I ordered.

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Steering Box Part #1

Next I got working on mounting the '79 F250 4x4 steering box. This was not as strait forward as I had hoped. My 1970 frame is about a inch taller than a '79 frame, so the pitman arm shaft doesn't hang down very far. Luckily I was able to get everything lined up so that the shaft dropped down low enough to clear the frame.

Shaved off the raised portion on the 1970 frame so that the '79 steering box would fit.

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Had the local steel place put a break in 3/16" steel so that I could just do some trim work to get things to fit nicely.

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There was a small area that I ground down on the steering box to allow the box to sit as far down as possible on the frame.

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Here is the clearance I got on the pitman arm shaft.

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The stock '79 pitman arm is obviously not going to work because I won't clear the crossmember. I ordered a 3" drop pitman arm from Bronco Graveyard to resolve this.

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I purchased some new shop toys :-X04

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I made this adapter to run from my 3 prong dryer plug to my welder from stuff purchased at Home Depot.

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I had Pittman arm problems too. I'm working on a 2wd camper special and my arm didn't have the drop necessary either. However 3" was too much. I posted my solution here:

A Diesel Conversion of a 1969 Ford F250 Camper Special: Pittman Arm Solutions

Thank you for the resource :-X22 I will have to see how the Bronco Graveyard drop pitman arm works out.

I made the first test fit of the motor today :-X03

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Everything looks great so far. I am thinking about modifying and using the stock Dodge motor mounts that I torched off the frame of my doner truck. They look like they will fit really well with a bit of modification. They each will have to be narrowed a 1/4" or so from what I can tell to fit the frame rails. I will keep you posted on how it all turns out.

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Got a nice update for us I see today. That welder and porta band will come in handy often. Let me know how you like the Porta band I've been thinking about buying one for awhile now just haven't because of the price. Beats using a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutoff wheel for everything like I been using. Where did you get your axle rebuild kits at? I'm looking around now for them so I can finally build mine and move on to the next step. I was thinking about using the stock motor mounts on mine but one side was cracked so I built my own. I may end up going back and redoing them Alittle different using the stock mounts from the cummins like they say one step forward and two steps back.

Nice progress and more tools is always a good thing.

The portable band saw is awesome. Cuts strait and precise. Only problem was that the factory blade that came with the machine went dull after less than a days work. I ordered some Milwaukee bi-metal blades that should be much better.

I can't say who I ordered the axle parts from. My buddy is a axle specialist and owns his own business so I got them at cost from his supplier. I do remember that most of the parts were "Sierra Gear" brand.

I brought out the big guns again tonight to get the high steer arms reinstalled :-X10

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I spent a good while looking at the stock Dodge motor mounts tonight and decided that it may be best to fabricate them from scratch. I definitely think I could make the stock ones work, but custom ones might be easier to build and end up with a better product. It may be as simple as giving the local metal supplier some dimensions, have them make a few bends, then cut, drill, and weld them to fit with a few added gussets. It looks like it wouldn't be hard to make these things bolt in like stock. I will give it some more thought.

Since funds are low, I decided to reupholster the visors today. It was pretty simple. I took out the old stitching, used spray adhesive to get the new fabric onto the visor, folded over the ends on the inside of the old vinyl to hide the edge, and stitched the edge with a needle and thread. I will be using the same material for the headliner and a portion of the dash as a accent. It will give a big manly truck a softer touch. Maybe a should make some throw pillows? :eek:

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Looks like something from the late 60s, early 70s. Yeah......EEEK! I should know I was there!

I was thinking about doing the same thing with my 69 4x4, i havent done anything like this before and i'm not very creative when it comes to fabrication so i'm hoping to get some ideas. If anyone has any good suggestions let me know.

My advice is to not get in over your head. There are a lot of things in this build that I would have messed up if it wasn't for the advice and support of my friend who is a custom 4x4 specialist. He knows all the little details that no one talks or thinks abbut, but make a big difference. Things like setting caster correctly, placing cross members correctly to handle twisting in the frame, where to weld and not to weld on the frame - stuff like that that don't look much different initially, but make a big difference in the long run. I am trying to pass as much of this info on as possible in this build thread.

Also, a build like this is financially taxing. I will probably have $25,000 into this build by the time everything is said and done.

With that said - go for it! :-X22 But pick battles that you can win.

Are you just thinking about the diesel conversion? Or are you thinking about a lift, different axles, power steering, etc?

I was thinking of just doing the conversion. No lift or anything crazy just yet. But I'm curious to know though do I need to beef up the front at all to handle the extra weight of the cummins? Cause right now I have a Dana 44, do you think it will handle it ok? Or do I need to do any modification at all? Maybe go with a dana 60? I was thinking about power steering but I really don't want to get too deep into anything. I just really want to do the swap and do a good job. I have a friend who did the same thing with an 86 f350 and it turned out great but he bought some sort of kit so it was bit easier. I do know a guy who has a welding shop and he does a lot of jeep work. I was gonna try and get some help from him too.

Your Dana 44 would work just fine. You would only need a Dana 60 if you wanted to run BIG tires. The weight of the cummins wouldn't be a big deal.

The only other thing that you may need to consider is boxing more of the frame. The cummins is a lot more torquey, so there is a chance that you could twist the frame. Don't get too crazy though, you want some flex in the frame. If it is too ridged, it may crack - then you have bigger problems.

It sounds like you may want to consider a just buying a kit and keeping the fab work to a minimum.

Here is a website that could sell you what most of what you need: dieselconversion.com. I haven't dealt with them, but it looks like they would have a decent product for the average do it yourselfer.

Oh ok sweet that would make it so much easier if I could keep as much of the old stuff as possible. If my uncle sells me the truck I want, I'll have a motor nv 4500 and the transfer case all together so I wouldn't need to do any adapting. Now how much boxing of the frame would I need to do? I want to keep the fab work to a minimum just cause that is not my area of expertise. So I'll check out that site.

Got the drop pitman arm from Bronco Graveyard - I wasn't expecting it to be a skyjacker brand. I could have gotten it cheaper, but Bronco Graveyard had a actual picture and better specs, so I knew I was getting the right part.

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I got the some of the front steering cut and fitted. My buddy tells me I should tig weld the steering components, so I have to wait to borrow his machine.

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To answer the previous question, I am planning on boxing the frame from the front transmission crossmember forward.

Got a great deal on a new passenger motor mount (mine had been mortally wounded when the doner truck wrecked). Usually you have to pay the full dealer price on these, but found a dealer selling one on ebay for 1/2 the cost :-X03

Went ahead and got the polyurethane inserts for the mounts also. Now I just need to find a good excuse to make a 1 1/2 hour drive to the steel place to buy some 3/16" plate to build custom motor mounts and finish boxing the frame.

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Marine fuel cell tanks are an option and 2 24 gal fuel cells they are thin and can stack 2 in there..I'm using 1 24 gallon and you can mount smaller 5 or 20 gal unit under the truck..Ebay fuel cell

Does the universal sending unit that is on these fuel cells work with your fuel gauge correctly? Chevy gauges work differently than Ford / Dodge fuel gauges. I have a Ford/Dodge style aftermarket gauge.

sending unit
 

Not sure..just got them they'll fit .Also I found a truck diesel tank 21x 27X 15 I looking to sell for $75 but its heavy..I bought a set of new 3500 64" springs and was wondering if they would work on a stock 1979 F-350 4wd? I bought them for my shortbed but they seem too long for it..so I just bought a clean 1979 F350 dana 60 front and rear and thought I'd raise it up.. Also I am selling my 1969 F-2504wd yes 250 shortbed no rust 360 dana 60 and 44 but if I got the right money I'd throw in a sweet Dana 60 from a 79 and power steering set up..
I also have a built 390 for it tons of extras..I also have a set of Pit Bull 44X19.50X16 on Mickey Thompson classics that are 95+% a couple months old Im looking to trade or sell for some 41 or 42 Radials for the F-350
Let me know if you need anything and spread the word, my 69 is amazingly unique and pretty darn clean..Your project is killer and I loved your lift idea!

I saw a 32 gallon fuel cell on ebay with a Ford/Dodge sending unit that would fit for $300. Not bad, but it doesn't place the fuel filler in a good spot.

The 64" springs are definitely not a bolt up on the 79' Ford. You could make them fit if you move the front stock hanger to the rear and shackle flip it. In the front you could put a early 80's (pre '85) chevy 4x4 hanger. Of course you would have to center everything, but that is a pretty common poor man lift. You would get some good lift with that set up. The 3500 springs will not flex very much, but if you wanted more flex you could always take out a leaf or two out of the pack. Basically it is almost the same as what I am doing on my truck. There are lots of options to get the same thing done.

Sounds like you have some nice toys for sale. Ebay / Craigslist should help you move those guys pretty quickly.

Finally back to work. Got the passenger side steel fitted to box the frame and match my work on the other side where the power steering box will mount.

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Also worked with the front crossmember to get it welded in place. I have the steel for the motor mounts, so it shouldn't be long before I tackle those bad boys.

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seriously considering doing this to my 68 high boy. top end just crapped out on my 390. im actually pretty close to where you are. I live right in Grand Junction. there are a few things I am thinking about. and a donor truck is definatly where i should start i think. Im not looking to do any extra lift or anything else. right now i just want to get the motor in there, and get it going. I did like the way you did your crossmember in the front. cutting it down sure seems like the easiest way of doing it and if done well it should still look fairly stock. Im also not worried about the ac compressor issue as i wont be putting that in. the main thing i am wondering about is when i get everything together for it and start on it how do i tie into my drivetrain? do you have to get new drive lines made, fab crossmembers for the new trans and transfer case? also do you have to completely redo your entire instrument cluster? and how does the wiring situation work out under the hood?

I know that is alot of questions and all, sorry to interrupt your build thread, im just curious if this is even a project i should undertake. Thanks

After more than a month, I think it is time for an update.

Extremely nice conversion, and done at the 'Speed of Right'. I will keep your project in mind the next time I get impatient to finish something in a hurry. Well done amigo. I took 2 years to restore my '67, and glad that I took the time I did. I have one of those 'Rockcrawler' boxes I did not use, in case you know someone needing one.

Baja

I am still chipping away at this guy in my free time. Front crossmember is done. Frame is boxed on the passenger side. I still need to get the frame boxed on the drivers side and then I will be ready to build the motor mounts. I am honestly not in a hurry because I know that the financial well has dried up for a while, so I am not racing to get to that next step.

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I estimate that it is going to take about $12,000 to finish this project. I don't know where that is going to come from, so I am taking my time. If I had the funds, this thing would be done this summer for sure. Too many expensive parts to buy :)

In short, yes. The basic conversion would require motor mounts built, radiator / intercooler mounting fab, trans & transfercase crossmembers fabricated, and new drivelines. As far as wiring and gauges on a stock vehicle, I really don't know because I am using a custom wiring kit and aftermarket gauges. 12 valves are not that complicated, so wiring shouldn't be too difficult as long as you are comfortable playing around with a test light.

I don't know your mechanical ability, but don't think this is going to be a weekend job. It will take a good deal of dedication and resources over several months. Buying a donner truck is the way to go in my opinion. That way, you can part out the truck and make some of your money back.

You are welcome to stop by and take a look at the project if you head out this way. I actually live in Castle Valley. I buy steel in Grand Junction at Pacific Steel. They have always treated me right.

What is a "Rockcrawler" box?

I found it on Ebay, when I was doing the conversion to P/S on my Highboy. I bought it, and had it shipped to San Diego. It obviously is the heaviest duty 4x4 P/S gearbox ever made. It weighs over 40 lbs, and the 4 bolt spread is at least 7". It is made to fit on the inside of the frame, and looks like some minor cross member alteration is necessary to get a wrench on one of the lower, rear bolts.
I opted for another box, which I will attempt to download some photos of later, and it fits on the outside of the frame, with the pittman arm switched 180 deg. so it sticks out towards the tire. I had clearance for the drag link, even with MT 325x75x17 tires & rims.

Unfortunately, I hauled it 1000 miles down Baja, before discovering that I was going to use the 2nd (and lighter weight) gearbox. When I get home in late May, I will post some photos.

Baja

If you remove all warning lables, the shallow end of the gene pool will dry up naturally

OK amigos,

I just went on Ebay, and typed in "79 Ford 4x4 P/S steering box" and one came up... The one I have looks just like this one off a F350, with the large spread 4 bolt pattern, and the heavy duty box. Mine looks to be in extremely good shape.. with no rust at all..

Baja

Should be the same steering box that I am using. 78/79 F250/350 4x4 steering box.

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