axles looking great awesome writeup i'll be rebuuilding my 14 bolt here after i finish up the dana 60 front about how much did it cost to do your axle? asking because ill be replacing everything like yours and want to know how much ill need to save so i can start on it

Cost can vary a little bit based on how you approach the rebuild. From what I remember here is the cost brake down for my rebuild:

Used rebuildable 14 bolt axle: $100
Detroit locker, gears, bearings, set up kit: $900
Disk brake conversion parts: $250
Upgraded 1410 yoke: $115

Total cost: $1365
Not too bad for a premium setup :-X04

Good to hear you snagged a Dana 60 front axle and are making progress on your crew cab beast. Feel free to drop a pic or two as you make progress.

Thanks that's about the cost range I was thinking I got my 14 bolt for 120 with 3.73 gears I want to try that ratio first since its in the middle of the most common gears 4.10 and 3.55 I've made some progress got the motor sitting in on its own now motor mounts and trans mount done finished installing the 78-79 4x4 power steering box just need my steering column back from powdercoat so I can work on the shaft length and get my 60 rebuilt and do the crossover. Steering I'm working on the brakes now putting a hydroboost setup off a 2006 dodge cummins my only worry is if it will fit with the pusher intake I want for it ill get some pics up of what I did since I finished the suspension

Are you sure that 3.73 gears are going to be enough to run your tire size? Larger tires require steeper gears. My target tire size is 40" - 42" and I have to run 4.88 gears to keep the RPM's within range.

Plug your drive train specs and tire size into this calculator:

Gear Ratio Calculator

Compare the results with standard cummins RPM ranges on youtube or elsewhere to select the right gear ratio.

Thanks for such a detailed description. I'm in the process of starting a 6BT transplant into a 69 F250 Camper Special and will also be swapping out the rear dif gears from the 4:11 there now to 3:55 or 3:45. This is a big help to me. Keep up the great work.

14 Bolt Axle Rebuild Part #5:

Install the axle bering / hub retaining nut using a special castle style axle nut socket.

Attachment 235252

I tightened the hub nut with a impact gut to set the hub on the spindle. Then I backed it off and hand tightened it. When I met resistance, I checked my nut to see how far it was from the key slot in the spindle. I went ahead and tightened it down to match the spindle key slot. The hub should have no slop and should spin smoothly on the spindle.

Attachment 235253

I thought I would have this thing all buttoned up and painted today, but I lost the spindle nut keys (specialized woodruff key) that holds the spindle nut in place :-banghead So I will have to pick up a set at the GM dealer before I can finish things. The funny thing is that the guy who is helping me with the rebuild specifically told me not to loose that key :-X19

I went ahead and did the final install on the pinion housing. You have to use a special gasket sealer for this that won't add thickness to surface. Here is the gasket sealer you need to use:

Attachment 235254

Squeeze it into the o-ring grove on the corner of the housing surface and torque the bolts to 70 ft lbs. Loctite the bolts.

Attachment 235255

I am having good success parting out the wrecked Dodge I purchased. Looks like I am going to make around $1500 to $2000 back on it.

Glad to be of service Mr Lug Nut. This was the first time I have ever rebuilt and axle. Luckily one of my neighbors (who is also one of my church members) is a 4x4 axle specialist in the area. He walked me through the whole process. I partly documented the rebuilt so that I could reproduce it again if I need to. I will be doing the rebuild on the Dana 60 front as soon as I can afford the parts. An air locker, gear set, and bearings add up you know.

14 Bolt Axle Rebuild Part #6:

Here are the spindle nut keys that I lost. $6 at the dealer for two. Of course I found the others I lost the minute I got home.

Attachment 235256

Here they are installed with the lock ring retainer on the spindle nut.

Attachment 235257

Slid in the axles in, siliconed the sealing surface, loctited the bolts, torked them to 90 ft lbs.

Attachment 235258

Here is the axle complete:

Attachment 235259

Attachment 235260

Attachment 235261

Painted the axle with some rust encapsulator. I will wait to cover it with a finish coat of paint after the spring mounts are welded on and the axle is installed.

Attachment 235262

Attachment 235263

There you have it. Axle build complete. :-X22

awesome job this will surely help me out when i do my 14 bolt the 60 is first though need a radiator and intercooler to fit up everything so i can keep progress while i save for the axle builds keep moving your getting there

It comes down to time & money. I too am saving for my front axle rebuild. I think the front axle is going to cost about $1600 to build. The Air locker alone is $1000+ :eek: Oh well, next step is to get the front axle build and make it a roller. I just need about $2500 to pull that off.

i hear that on the 60 arb lockers are salty but needed mine will have one for now i'm going to get the 14 bolt semi built discs seals cleaning and run the 3.73 at first so i know what gears ill need for sure then finish it with the good stuff same with the front i'm going to just do what i can until i get the right ratio i'l be doing my hydroboost install this weekend parts are here today another step further we go

Let me know how the install on the 2006 Dodge hydroboost setup goes. I am planning on using the hydroboost setup off of the 1997 donor Dodge I picked up. The only trick will be getting the dodge power steering pump, hydroboost set up, and my 1979 Ford steering box to all work together properly. Then again, maybe I will just try and used the steering box off of the donor Dodge and keep everything in the loop. I guess it depends on whether or not I can change the pressure coming out of the Dodge power steering pump to match the needed pressure on the 79 Ford steering gear :eek:

One whole month? Nothing?

Terrible right? I have been making some progress, but nothing critical. Everything usable has been pulled from the donor Dodge and the remaining pieces have been sold to some Dodge Ram lover. I decided to not only use the engine and tranny, but the hydroboost, steering column, and steering gear off of the Dodge also. I also snagged the petal assembly out of the dodge to keep things simple.

For now, I am trying to figure out how to come up with $2500 to rebuild my front axle and buy a few other items to make my frame a roller again. Soon very soon.

On a happy note, I bought this little baby from a neighbor for $860 :-X06

Attachment 235264

1993 Ford F250 7.3L Turbo Diesel 220K miles. Now I can haul all my junk around :-X21

That my friend is what you call a steal!!!
QUOTE=ryanhablitzel;12233692]Terrible right? I have been making some progress, but nothing critical. Everything usable has been pulled from the donor Dodge and the remaining pieces have been sold to some Dodge Ram lover. I decided to not only use the engine and tranny, but the hydroboost, steering column, and steering gear off of the Dodge also. I also snagged the petal assembly out of the dodge to keep things simple.

For now, I am trying to figure out how to come up with $2500 to rebuild my front axle and buy a few other items to make my frame a roller again. Soon very soon.

On a happy note, I bought this little baby from a neighbor for $860 :-X06

Attachment 235265

1993 Ford F250 7.3L Turbo Diesel 220K miles. Now I can haul all my junk around :-X21[/QUOTE]

havent heard any updates lately hows the front axle going? i need to get a clutch next and engine gasket kit when its out for the last time hopefully and do the KDP. heres how i did my hydroboost setup off a 2006 dodge it worked out pretty good just need to either cut and thread a heim joint on the rod to the pedal or fab a bracket off of your pedal but your using alot more dodge parts interested in how you make it all work.

Attachment 235266

Attachment 235267

Attachment 235268

To The Top

Sorry for the lack of progress. Just got a great deal on a 2005 Denali that needed a front axle rebild. I am buttoning that up this week.

Unfortunately the financial well has run dry for the time being. I will have to wait on the front axle rebild for a while. My plan is to try and make the thing a roller and get the engine and tranny all mounted up before next spring. I have decided to shoot for 7" over all lift instead of 10". This means I will have to ditch the bull bar, but that is ok.

I think using the steering column, gear, and petal assembly off the dodge will make things simpler. We will see. :-hair

Alright. Back in the saddle again. The goal is to get the axles mounted, engine transplanted, and steering completed before Jan 1. Lets Roll.

Got the rear (of front) shackle mounts cleaned up and mounted. Does anyone know of a good polyurethane replacement bushing for these?

Attachment 235269

I am building a custom front crossmember out of 4"X4" 1/4" steel tubing. The reason for a custom cross member is: one - so I can mount the 1999-2004 Superduty springs without grinding down the bushings or cutting the military wrap for a stock easy replacement in the future. Two - so I have a solid place to mount a front receiver and clevis mounts. The down side is that this will take a little more work.

In order to do this I first had to find the center to center measurement of my 1979 F350 Dana 60 front axle in order to make sure that everything will line up even once the axle is mounted. The measurement was 31 3/4".

Next order of business was to measure the center to center measurement of the rear (of front) busing mounts. This measurement was 31 7/8".

Attachment 235270

A 1/16" difference on each side of the axle is acceptable so I am going with the 31 7/8" measurement since the rear mounts are stationary and can not change (easily that is).

Everything I do on the front axle mount will be with 31 7/8" center to center as my standard.

I cut away my spring access on the cross member using a plasma and a grinder. I had to go in 3 3/4".

Attachment 235271

Now I had to make plates to add to each side to hang the front half of spring on. Notice that I drilled the mount holes slightly lower and back from center so I could clear the Superduty springs military wrap.

Attachment 235272

Attachment 235273

Now with the front cross member ready to weld, I will move to the back. I need to buy bolts and nuts before I weld everything in place so I can weld a nut to the backside of the inner cross member plate. This will allow me to install the spring without having to get a wrench on the inside of the crossmember. You have to use a zinc nut because grade 8 nuts are not good for welding on.

I cut out temporary shackles for the rear so that I could mount everything up and and put weight on the springs before I cut a final set. The main thing to remember is that this is where caster will be affected. Too long of shackles and you will have a steering issue. Think about the turning radius of a motorcycle with long forks. If you tilt the axle too far forward like a motorcycle with long forks - you will start to have turning radius issues. Since I am building a custom front cross member, I am going to clamp everything in place and put weight on the springs so that I can move the cross member forward or back to achieve the ideal caster. I am starting with 5" eye to eye and then going from there.

Attachment 235274

Incase anyone is wondering here are the bolt sizes for the Superduty spring and stock shackle:

Front - 11/16"
Rear - 5/8"
Rear Shackle Mount - 9/16"

Off to the bolt store before I move forward anymore.

Here is a pic of the Denali that has consumed my attentions over the last month or so. Had to rebuild the front axle, have the front lower seat re upholstered, total detail on the interior (dog hair and coffee stains everywhere), and replace the instrument cluster. But I got a sweet deal so I am not complaining.

Attachment 235275

:-X06

Looking good I believe the front leaf holes are 18mm ford went to metric instead of standard for the SD I took out a stock SD leaf bolt and it was a 18mm thread I got longer 18mm bolts in order to go through my custom leaf crossmember. Ill be redoing it after winter I have some time to think about it if I want to convert to coil overs or stay with leafs. I believe these are the ones I used for the rear shackle hanger bushings might I say good luck getting the old ones out it took me awhile before I got mine out yours might be easier as you have less rust issues then I have Shackle Bushings Only, Black

Thanks for the heads up on the shackle mount bushings. I was planning on using a press to get the old ones out and applying some heat if necessary. I will order up a pair of the ones you mentioned and see how things go.

You are correct on Ford using metric for the SD. I didn't even think about it since I was measuring with a dial caliper. I will likely try to find standard size bolts since I drilled everything out with standard sized drill bits. The tolerances should be close enough. I may just have to use the 18mm though because 11/16" is a bit of an oddball size. The 9/16 and 5/8 will be no problem.

Got the receiver welded into the front crossmember yesterday :-X06

Attachment 235276

Attachment 235277

Attachment 235278

Attachment 235279

OFFICIAL BOLT SIZES for the Superduty springs are:
Front - 18mm (had to order these from the bolt house)
Rear - 16mm (ended up splurging and buying these at the Ford dealer just because)
Rear Frame Shackle Pivot - 9/16"

Thanks crazedbronco for keeping me strait. The 16mm fit the 5/8" hole I drilled perfectly so you could use either size on the rear. The 18mm fits the 11/16" hole perfectly, but you won't find a 11/16" bolt anywhere.

Nice fab work like the front spring crossmember with hitch mount. Ill be redoing mine next year I got a truck for winter now so I don't have to rush on things and go back and redo things the way I want them can't wait to get started on that. How long we're your 18mm bolts? I had a hell of a time finding ones long enough 18mm is sort of a odd size bolt for some reason.

The 18mm bolts were approx 4 1/2". I think that is 115 in mm. I had to special order them from a bolt specialty store in Grand Junction, CO. The nice thing is that they ordered me unfinished bolts, so I could weld the nut on the crossmember without extra work.

You could also just get a pair at your local Ford dealer for a 1999-2004 Superduty. This actually may have been a cheaper option in hindsight.

I have learned my lesson about going to the local "hardware" store for bolts. A bolt specialty store is always 20 times cheaper and you can get whatever you want.

nice thread, great detail/ pics...hope you can get that beast rolling sooner rather than later...

PROGRESS

Installed new rear of front shackle mount bushings :-X06

Attachment 235280

Attachment 235281

Attachment 235282

Attachment 235283

Finished up the front cross member :-whud

Attachment 235284

Attachment 235285

Got the rear spring mounts cleaned up also :-X22

Attachment 235286

I will be setting the springs on the front axle tomorrow. Ordered some Ruff Stuff spring plates and u-bolts for the Dana 60. $106 shipped to the door for everything.

Soon it will be time to set the Cummins between the frame for a test fit.

Got some good progress going on. How hard was it to press out those old front shackle bushings? Mine were held in there pretty good with rust. I pressed mine out just like you did the one was so tight even after heating it up some I broke one of the bolt hole ears off and had to weld it back on. Are you using a u bolt flip kit? I think you mentioned it before but what are those rear spring hangers out of? Are they for 3" springs? I need to get longer spring hangers to correct my pinion angle the SD hangers I have are to short making the axle locating pin tilt forward to much instead of pointing to the ground. Would you mind taking some measurements of them if I took pics of what parts of them I need measured? Every time I look at these cummins build threads makes me want to work on my crew but I keep having other things pop up to drag me away from it. And keep having to spending my axle funds on my new truck to fix all the little problems to keep it reliable

Shackle bushings took a little more force than usual on the shop press to get out, but I didn't have to apply heat at all. My truck is virtually rust free. I first pressed the center bolt guide out along with most of the old bushing, then pressed the sleeve out on it's own. I cleaned out the bore with a bit of fine sandpaper and the new bushings slid in with the tap of a hammer.

Can't you just relocate your spring perch on the axle to change your pinion angle? I have to get my transferase in before I can weld my spring perches in so that I know what the proper angle will be.

The hangers are from the front of the rear spring on an '85 Chevy 4x4. They are for a 3" wide spring. By using a set of these (both the front and rear) on my rear spring (shackle flip assumed), I can get about 5" of lift in the rear without any spring adjustment. Since I am ditching my lift blocks, I will still have to use around a 5" lift spring to make up the difference. I am thinking about just ordering custom rear springs from Alcan since they are local here where I live.

Let me know what specific measurements you want and I will post pics :-X10

Received the U-bolts and plates from Ruff Stuff the other day. Notice that one U-bolt is larger than the others. This is to make up for the U-bolt that has to go over the differential case a little bit. From what I understand, I am going to have to notch the differential housing gusset to flip the U-bolts and make these work.

Attachment 235287

I also have been working on additional gauge mounting locations in the cab. I ditched the stock stereo and shaved the stereo mounting bezel to accept a plate with 2" holes in it. I had to glue the plate to the bezel since the bezel is cast, but it looks like it is going to hold fine. Cleaned up the additional glue with a razor blade and some sand paper and painted everything up :-X04

Attachment 235288

Flipping the U-bolts on the Dana 60 is not so simple. My initial plan of attack was to drill a 5/8" hole in the gusset and try and slide the U-bolt in. This would have left some of the gusset intact and much stronger.

Attachment 235289

Since getting the U-bolt in like this was impossible, I decided to cut out the rest of the material with a port-o-band.

Attachment 235290

Smoothed the edges a little for curvature and there you have it. I am planning on adding a 1/4" bridge on the gusset I had to cut to give it back some strength.

I had to drill out the location hole the U-bolt plates to fit the bolt on the 1999-2004 Superduty springs.

Attachment 235291

And there you have it :D

Attachment 235292

Attachment 235293

This is awesome me and a friend are doing almost the same thing but ours is a crewcab. But thanks for all the awesome ideas. Keep up the great work

Time to mount the the rear front hanger. Since I am using 64" Chevy springs, I have to move the rear crossmember to match the new location of the hanger. If you don't do this, you will get unwanted flex in the frame and it could be an issue over time. Notice that the crossmember was located exactly in the location of the stock hanger. There is a reason.

Had to drill out the rivets to free up the crossmember - my favorite :-X13

My measurement from center of the bump stop to center of the spring hanger bolt was 31 1/2" since the spring I have as a reference is 63" eye to eye.

Attachment 235294

The nice thing is that once the crossmember was free, the front hole lined up perfectly with on of the old rivet holes and I could put a bolt through to secure it. This kept everything square.

Attachment 235295

Next I lined up the Chevy hanger, clamped it in place, and drilled out some bolt holes. I still need to plug weld all the other holes in the crossmember and weld the part of the hanger that goes on the bottom of the frame in place.

Attachment 235296

The nice thing is that my hanger lined up perfectly so that I could use the large existing hole in the frame as a reference so that each side would be exactly the same.

Attachment 235297

And there you have it. After a little welding, the front hangers for the rear are done.

Attachment 235298

8D

Your really moving along now almost got it as a roller. I went through the same exact thing with my front 44 when I put it in with the u bolt flip and and the center hole in the plate I also had to slot the one u bolt holes for the larger bolt around the pumpkin webbing I just notched the webbing so it sits up in there nice I wasn't sure if I'd have to do the same when I get my front 60 built good to know what I'll have to do now. I have the money to build my front axle but I'm debating buying a even bigger turbo for my other truck (one major reason I haven't been doing much with the crew lately) all my time money in that lately. But as for my rear hanger situation I could cut reweld the leaf perches to correct angle as ill be doing it anyway to get them perfect in line with the springs but the spring locating pin that gos in the perch is angled towards the front of the truck instead of straight at the ground so to correct it a longer front hanger will push the pin downwards more. What is the length from the bottom of the frame to center of the Chevy leaf mount bolt hole that gos through the leaf eye?

Got the Felpro gasket conversion set in the mail today :-X06

Attachment 235299

Goals for the week are to get the oil pan repaired, fab a new front axle mount for the passenger side, fab a new cross member to finish off the rear crossmembers, and ??? Mount the engine? I probably am getting too far ahead of myself. I think I will wait to do most of the gaskets in this kit including the killer dowel pin when the engine is mounted. We will have to see how things come together :-blah

Here is your measurement Mr. Crazedbronco = 4"

Attachment 235300

I got a little more work done today. Got the rear crossmembers cut to the right length (33 7/16"). I used 3/16" steel 5" X 2". I will cut out the small factory angle iron piece once I get everything squared up and welded into place.

Attachment 235301

Also got the passenger side axle perch fabricated. Just need to line everything up and tack it into place.

Attachment 235302

Pulled the oil pan off of the cummins today to assess the damage. The good news is that the cummins oil pickup is built like a tank and undamaged. the bad news is that my oil pan isn't worth repairing :'(

Attachment 235303

Attachment 235304

On a happy note. Chasetruck shared a awesome link for info on the 1994-1998 Cummins fuel system:

Joe G's fuel system writeup - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

That is what I call comprehensive!

Cool project. Wish I had done the cummins in my 75. It still has its 360. I live between Montrose and Delta, CO Drove by your way a couple weeks ago.

Might have missed what you decided to do about your fuel tank, but if not. Have you considered using aftermarket tool box/fuel tank in the bed? I have one on my F350 SD and it holds 40+ gallons plus a nice size tool box. Nice build thread too!!
Attachment 235305

It is never to late to consider your '75 for a conversion. When the 360 wears out (or you get sick of the gas milage) you have a good candidate to convert.

I head out to Grand Junction pretty regularly for parts and steel. Pacific Steel is the best. Next time you are in Moab on a Saturday you could drop by my church for some good old fashioned preaching :-X04

Well, after all the talk about a Suburban gas tank, I think I am going to end up fabricating my own custom aluminum one. I am not sure about the details yet, I have to get the motor, trans, and transfercase mounted and the frame on axles before I worry about the details of the tank.

Ordered the a new oil pan from Geno's Garage the other day. $140 delivered :-X15 Now I just have to wait to get that installed before I can build motor mounts.

I have a broken passenger side motor mount. I am thinking about just building my own custom motor mounts and ditching the factory ones attached to the engine since a new motor mount is $100+. I need to get the engine hanging between the frame before I can know for sure.

Sorry for the lack of progress guys :-X15 The grocery getter had a front passenger tire that tried to choose a different direction unexpectedly. Now I am stuck rebuilding the front suspension on the A to B car :-banghead

Attachment 235306

Attachment 235307

Attachment 235308

Remember that 1993 Turbo Diesel I got for $860? It got traded the other day for this ~

Attachment 235309

Pretty UGLY Right? Here is why I traded it ~

Attachment 235310

Attachment 235311

It's a 1979 F350 4X4 with Dana 60's front and rear. For now I will drive it around and smash it up a little bit. After I am done with the current project - it will be getting a nice doner body from a 2wd Truck and a 4" Lift.

Nice trade, not so nice broken ball joint. Looks like it could have been a lot worse! I'm guessing you weren't going to fast when it happen?