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-   -   Air filter options (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1144466-air-filter-options.html)

jazz1 03-03-2012 10:10 AM

Air filter options
 
I am thinking eliminating stock air cleaner on my '86 300 6 and putting something like this on to increase air flow. What are you using? Eliminate the stock "can" completely

EXTREME AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY 14X3 INCH BLACK B-3 | eBay

ctubutis 03-03-2012 10:41 AM

I am using the stock "can" as it works best, at least in winter.

I see no reason to replace it and any performance improvements would be imaginary, but you're free to give your money to whomever you like.

82f100460 03-03-2012 11:41 AM

I would keep it stock. Goint to a different air cleaner will not likely increase air flow...it is not the limiting component in the fuel/air system.

Airflow is going to be controlled by your carb and is function of engine displacement, cam, valves, intake and other variables. You can likely not run a filter at all and not increase air flow.

In High performance applications, where the above variables have been modified, the air filter and house may become limiting and and upgrade is warranted. But I aslo would not sacrifice drivability and/or starting ease (especially when its cold) for something that "looks" like it would increase performance.

f100beatertruck 03-03-2012 12:55 PM

I plan on using a dual snorkel air cleaner from a 5.0 mustang on my 393 stoker that I'm building if that tells you anything. I'm going to duct the snorkels to a cold air source and hook up the heat stoves for faster warm up in the winter.

My problem with filters like that and any open filter is that it's sitting right over the hot engine. Cold air is more dense and can make more power.

Gary Lewis 03-03-2012 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f100beatertruck (Post 11522304)
I plan on using a dual snorkel air cleaner from a 5.0 mustang on my 393 stoker that I'm building if that tells you anything. I'm going to duct the snorkels to a cold air source and hook up the heat stoves for faster warm up in the winter.

My problem with filters like that and any open filter is that it's sitting right over the hot engine. Cold air is more dense and can make more power.

Why plumb both snorkels to hot air? Are you planning on racing before the engine warms up? }>

My plan, when I get to it, is to block the hot-air opening on the driver's side snorkel and run two temp sensors to control the flappers individually. That way the one on the driver's side will stay closed in cold weather and yet will open fully in hot weather. And, there will be just a little bit less hot air to taint the cold air on that snorkel.

:-hijacked Hijack over. ;)

Forgot to say you should read this thread: Stock Air Cleaner The reasons discussed there are still very valid. No need to rehash.

f100beatertruck 03-03-2012 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis (Post 11524934)
Why plumb both snorkels to hot air? Are you planning on racing before the engine warms up? }>

Yeah, the cold start drags... Didn't you hear of them?

I'm undecided but my OCD may kick in and force me to have symmetry since they're both there.

whisler 03-04-2012 08:39 AM

Not to hi-jack the thread but will the dual snorkel air cleaner from a 5.0 Mustang fit on a Motorcraft 2150 carb.
I have a line on one but don't want to buy without knowing it will fit. It is an internet sale so I can't just go measure it.

whisler 03-05-2012 08:26 AM

Gary: why couldn't you just tee off the one temp sensor rather than using two. If the hot air inlet is blocked, then the flapper being open over it when cold wouldn't matter, Right?

Gary Lewis 03-05-2012 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whisler (Post 11531106)
Gary: why couldn't you just tee off the one temp sensor rather than using two. If the hot air inlet is blocked, then the flapper being open over it when cold wouldn't matter, Right?

Actually, that might work nicely. As long as you have the sensor behind the snorkel that has hot air then I think it would work. The only issue would be as the air gets hot and the flapper starts to open to allow cold air in, as the sensor is only sensing the air in the one snorkel. The air in the other snorkel will be COLD, so the overall air temp going into the carb would be colder than the sensor realized. But, that might not be a problem.

I guess I could try and add the 2nd sensor if it doesn't work as expected. But, as easily as the air cleaner comes off it wouldn't matter when I put the sensor on. So, I might as well try one and go to two if needed.

Good idea!

whisler 03-05-2012 01:43 PM

The way the illustration in my manual looks, if you had the drivers side snorkel warm air inlet capped, and the vacuum motor was operating off of the temp. sensor, then when cold, you would get little or no air from that snorkel, warm or cold.

With only drawing air through the passenger side snorkel, it should act like a single snorkel until warmed up then switch to dual cold air inlet.

Am I visualizing this right?

Gary Lewis 03-05-2012 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whisler (Post 11532386)
The way the illustration in my manual looks, if you had the drivers side snorkel warm air inlet capped, and the vacuum motor was operating off of the temp. sensor, then when cold, you would get little or no air from that snorkel, warm or cold.

With only drawing air through the passenger side snorkel, it should act like a single snorkel until warmed up then switch to dual cold air inlet.

Am I visualizing this right?

Yes, you have it right. It would work fine when full hot s needed and when full cold is needed.

My concern, and it is probably a minor one, is in the transition phase between full hot and cold. Since there is only one sensor, and since it is in the air stream from the passenger's side snorkel, it will only be controlling the temp at the outlet of that snorkel. None of the air from the other snorkel can get to the sensor. But, at the same opening there will be full cold air coming in from the driver's since since you either have no air or cold air.

whisler 03-05-2012 02:09 PM

Your temp. sensor must be in a different position than mine, as mine is in the top of the air cleaner, over the main body of the air cleaner and across from the snorkel. In that position, I don't think it would make much difference even in the transition.

Gary Lewis 03-05-2012 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whisler (Post 11532501)
Your temp. sensor must be in a different position than mine, as mine is in the top of the air cleaner, over the main body of the air cleaner and across from the snorkel. In that position, I don't think it would make much difference even in the transition.

Duh! :-down Why didn't I realize that? Well, maybe because the air cleaner on Dad's truck hasn't had the flapper hose hooked up in almost forever. And because it was broken in about a dozen places I swapped it out with another one I'd picked up along the way - one which has 3 sensors on it. I don't know which truck it came from, but I know it was from another 80's era truck.

Anyway, it has two sensors just behind the snorkel, which is on the driver's side, and one in the lid inside the land for the filter. So, if that one were used it could be positioned to the rear where it would be roughly the same distance from both snorkels and it would basically be sensing the air going into the carb - regardless of from whence it came.

Good idea! :-X22

whisler 03-05-2012 04:44 PM

I think that one of the devices in the snorkel is the vacuum motor that opens and closes the flapper and the other is called a Cold Weather Modulator (CWM). My manual says that it keeps the flapper from trying to close during periods of low vacuum, like acceleration, by acting as a vacuum trap. Once it senses a high enough temp. it allows vacuum to vent.

My air cleaner doesn't have the CWM. Also the vacuum motor is defective and I'm trying to find out where to get another. I'd rather buy a new one than trust a 30- year old one from the JY, but I may not have a choice.

f100beatertruck 03-05-2012 05:49 PM

Bi-Metalic valve. That's what controls the air cleaner diverter valve aka "the flapper valve". When cold it allows vacuum flow to suck the diverter valve closed. Once warm it cuts off flow. It's a little silver disk inside the air cleaner housing.

It's also called a "Sensor Assy. (Carburetor air cleaner temperature control)" in the parts manual...

@Gary, some are located in the bottom housing, some in the top, etc. Depends on the engine.


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