Replacement key / third key
Hi all!
I read a while ago that as long as I have my two original truck keys, I can inexpensively buy a key fob on ebay, have it cut and then program it myself. There are instructions in the manual. But: if you lose one of the two keys, it becomes expensive as you'll have to go to the dealer. Has anybody done this? What key did you get off ebay? My truck is a 2012 XLT. Thanks a lot for any input! |
you still need a chip key, either with or without the integrated remote to start the vehicle. Most good locksmiths carry them nowadays. In Canada, I paid $60 for the guy to cut me a plain chip key to keep in my garage, and if you want you can use older F150 fobs with it on the side.
I had a couple fobs from a 2003 F150 that was lost in an accident, and they work fine on my 2011, so I suspect if you go on EBAY and buy any cheap Ford fob from (at least) 2003 on up, if it works on a 2011 should work on a 2012. Anybody tried it? |
Originally Posted by Big-Red-Lariat
(Post 11377071)
you still need a chip key, either with or without the integrated remote to start the vehicle. Most good locksmiths carry them nowadays. In Canada, I paid $60 for the guy to cut me a plain chip key to keep in my garage, and if you want you can use older F150 fobs with it on the side.
I had a couple fobs from a 2003 F150 that was lost in an accident, and they work fine on my 2011, so I suspect if you go on EBAY and buy any cheap Ford fob from (at least) 2003 on up, if it works on a 2011 should work on a 2012. Anybody tried it? So I found two options that *should* work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNCUT-BLANK-TRANSPONDER-CHIP-REPLACEMENT-IGNITION-KEY-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-/160725810153?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Year%3A2011|Make%3AFord|Model%3AF-150&vxp=mtr&hash=item256c013be9 NEW FORD REMOTE HEAD KEY KEYLESS ENTRY FOB 80BIT COMBO | eBay The first one would be like a Valet key, no remote unlocking / locking, but would be a good option as a backup should I lose one of the main keys. It will also allow programming another key later in that case, as two keys are needed that are already programmed. And for $8 it's a bargain considering the dealer will want a few hundred bucks from what I heard. The second one looks exactly like the keys I got with the truck, and would be a full replacement, but I have no idea of how to program the remote lock feature. Has anybody tried either option, and how did it work out? |
I got a key without buttons for about $25 on ebay and had it cut for about $2. Programming it was no problem. Make sure the key says "SA" on it before you buy from ebay.
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I've bought keys off eBay for both my F150 and the wife's Mariner. Just buy from a reputable seller - there are a few on there with tens of thousands of feedbacks, and buy a key from them that they say will work with your year model of F150. Buy it, have a decent locksmith cut it for you, then program it yourself.
Having the system reset by the dealer is a lot more expensive than having a spare key... |
Originally Posted by ebexp94
(Post 11377424)
I got a key without buttons for about $25 on ebay and had it cut for about $2. Programming it was no problem. Make sure the key says "SA" on it before you buy from ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNCUT-BLANK-TRANSPONDER-CHIP-REPLACEMENT-IGNITION-KEY-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-/160725810153?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Year%3A2011|Make%3AFord|Model%3AF-150&vxp=mtr&hash=item256c013be9 I think it says "S" on it. |
That sounds real shady Flixden. Sounds like there is no chip inside...just a hollow shell.
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Originally Posted by msalyer
(Post 11378819)
That sounds real shady Flixden. Sounds like there is no chip inside...just a hollow shell.
Thanks msalyer! |
Now here is an additional question about this: does anybody know how to program the remote transmitter / fob? My manual only gives me the procedure for the chip, but not the remote transmitter.
Thanks a lot! |
I looked at the 2011 manual (the 2012 manuals are not available from Ford's website) and the best I can figure is you must use an Integrated Keyhead Transmitter (IKTs). The spare/replacement remote and the key are programmed at the same time.
I'm guessing this means you cannot use the separate key fob. |
This is from the '10 manual
Should be the same for '12 Replacing lost transmitters If a remote transmitter has been lost and you would like to remove it from the vehicle’s memory, or you would like to purchase additional remote transmitters and have them programmed to your vehicle: • Take all your vehicle’s transmitters to your authorized dealer for programming, or • Perform the programming procedure yourself. Programming remote transmitters It is necessary to have all (maximum of four — original and/or new) of your remote transmitters available prior to beginning this procedure. If all remote entry transmitters are not present during the programming procedure, the transmitters that are not present during programming will no longer operate the vehicle. To program the transmitters yourself: Note: Ensure the brake pedal is not depressed during this sequence. • Unlock all doors using the power door lock/unlock control. Insert a key and turn the ignition from the 1 (off) to the 3 (on) position and cycle between 1 (off) and 3 (on) eight times in rapid succession (within 10 seconds) with the eighth turn ending in the 3 (on) position. The locks will cycle to confirm that the programming mode has been entered. • Within 20 seconds, program a remote transmitter by pressing any button on a transmitter. The locks will cycle once to confirm that the remote transmitter has been programmed. (If more than 20 seconds pass before pressing a remote transmitter button, the programming mode will exit and the procedure will have to be repeated.) • Repeat the previous step to program additional remote transmitters. The locks will cycle once to confirm that each remote transmitter has been programmed. • When you have completed programming the remote transmitters, turn the ignition to the 1 (off) position or wait 20 seconds. Again the doors will lock/unlock to confirm programming has been completed. The huge head keys are just regular PATS keys with a snap on fob. I understand that the regular separate fobs will work when programed. +Your IKTs are programmed to your vehicle; using a non-programmed key will not permit your vehicle to start. If you lose your authorized dealer supplied IKTs, replacement IKTs are available through your authorized dealer. Standard SecuriLock keys without remote entry transmitter functionality can also be purchased from your authorized dealer if desired.
Originally Posted by FUJINAMI1293
(Post 11167380)
hey there im new here and ill be buying my self a truck in a few days yes a ford.
now i have a question ive noticed on the ford keys for the newer models 2008 and up they have s and sa stamped into them and was wondering what the difference is between the two keys Thanks
Originally Posted by ccerniglia
(Post 11206342)
Its Encryption. S keys are Ford old PATS (passive aint-theft system) 40 bit encryption, the newer SA is an 80 bit encrytion that is backward compatible with old PATS using cars. Hope this answered your question.
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Yeah - you're probably right shorebird, but if it were my truck I would stick with the IKT to be sure.
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Originally Posted by shotgunz
(Post 11388491)
Yeah - you're probably right shorebird, but if it were my truck I would stick with the IKT to be sure.
http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...s/keychart.pdf The part number is: IPAT S 80 Bit (SA) 164-R8040 They can be found here, apparently OEM: 2008 2009 2010 2011 Ford F-250 F-350 F-450 Super Duty OEM PATS Key Blank new | eBay |
Originally Posted by flixden
(Post 11391528)
I am pretty sure the regular ones without the transmitter will work - because they are listed, at least for the 11's and can be ordered by the dealer:
http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...s/keychart.pdf The part number is: IPAT S 80 Bit (SA) 164-R8040 They can be found here, apparently OEM: 2008 2009 2010 2011 Ford F-250 F-350 F-450 Super Duty OEM PATS Key Blank new | eBay Key works fine, programming went smooth the first time. So now I am ready in case I lose one key, won't have to pay the dealer some outrageous amount of money. I kind of feel like getting another one, this was fun, LOL. :-X22 Interesting, when I open the truck door with the key instead of the remote keyless entry, I have to start the engine within a few seconds to keep the alarm from going off. |
Help me get unconfused...
flixden, let me see if my understanding is correct here. That "no button" $17 key will manually unlock the door; meaning that it cannot/will not do any sort of "keyless" entry BUT it does have an RF x-mitter that does need to be programmed in order to start the truck. Did I get that all corrent?
So the jest of it is: that 'no button' key will work to start the truck (once it's programmed, that is). Even unlocking the door isn't that big a deal to me since my truck has the exterior key pad. But the bottomline is, you can get by with just the ~$17 key (especially for spare/extra keys) plus the cost of getting it cut (how'd you get them to do it for free???). If my understanding (above) is correct, that seems like a pretty cheap way to get a couple of extra keys! (May have to do that myself!) :-X22 |
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