Full EGR Delete on 05 6.0 and now I have issues PLZ HELP
 

I've recently done a full egr delete (parts from First Coast Diesel Performance), oil cooler, and STC fitting replacement. This work was completed two days ago. Since then...the following things are happening:

1 - air conditioning doesn't work well at idle (seems to work sometimes and not work other times).

2 - on two separate occasions, major surge in rpm's, both instances lasted about 1 second for each surge for a total time of about 3 seconds.

3 - today while driving home the 'check guages' notification came on and the transmission temp went red. Also a loss of power. The truck just seemed confused.

I really would appreciate some help guys. Like everyone, I need this truck to work. Other than what's listed above this truck has zero mods. No tuners or anything.

sounds like ur having ficm issues. check ur ficm. also, maybe ur turbo or egr valve could be stuck at open. some gunk. jus clean and see how she runs after tat. when u did ur egr delete, did u leave ur egr valve plugged in? u got to. also, get a scangauge 2 or edge insight. the egr delete will work better with them. there is a setting to engage when u got an egr delete.

Thanks for replying Snuggy. I threw the EGR valve away. The delete kit that First Coast Diesel sells provides a new intake manifold that has the egr valve location welded shut. It's completely blocked off. The truck does not have any kind of tuner on it. Completely stock.

alrighty. however, with the way our trucks are programmed, ur gonna need tat egr valve. even though u got tat valve blocked off, u still need to plug tat egr valve into the wire. she'll start burping and getting real grumpy if she dont have tat plugged in. tats why it's throwing up codes and causing ur car's computer to be confused.

if u live in california, it's against the law to not have ur egr valve. even if u got a full delete on, u still need to have tat plugged into the wire. any scanner when plugged into ur obd2 port will know tat u dont have ur egr valve and it will cause u to fail inspection. they're clamping down on tat nowadays.

if u need to get an egr valve for ur 05 model, and u dont wan to spend too much money, u can find one in a salvage yard. make sure the engine aint too messed up, and when u plug into the harness, u can test it by starting the engine. rev it a little and u can see it open and close.

Need to check that the truck has a proper charge of 134A. An over or under charge will cause greif (learned that the hard way). Other than making sure the weather pack is all the way in on the a/c compressor...I'm not much help on this one.Could be an IPR/ICP. Need to check for codes on this one. Even if the truck didn't through a CEL (Check Engine Light) it should have stored a code.The lose of power could be it going into limp mode trying to protect it's self. Is it low on Mercon SP? Since your in CA, maybe something is blocking the cooler and the tranny actually over heated? The gauges are nothing more than idiot lights. Only the speedometer, tach & boost are mostly actuate (though I question my speedometer).

I don't care if where you live, so I'm not going to badger you about emissions testing...but you need to really think about plugging the EGR valve back in. The truck is going to throw a couple of codes at you. One of which is low EGR flow; also it won't spool the radiator fan when it starts to overheat. The low flow issue can be taken care of with a custom tune (Gearheads or DP-Tuner both have excellent tunes for that). And the fan issue is resolved by plugging the valve back in. It doesn't have to be in the intake...the PCM just needs to "talk to it". Lay it off to the side, just leave it plugged in.It's against Federal law to tamper with the emissions system. But I'm willing to bet if they going to start checking trucks nationwide...there are allot of us that are "going to jail, do not pass go, do not collect $200"}>}>}> That's why I say I don't care where another owner lives, that's his problem. I'm not going to start throwing stones because I do live in a glass house.;)

1- Check your heater coolant control valve. The vacuum line may not be connected allowing hot coolant through the heater core when the AC is on.

2 & 3 - maybe connection or harness issue?? Sounds like something is causing the truck to think that it needs to de-fuel.

I'm sure some of the local experts will chime in to help.

I think my first order of business, based on reading this thread and several others, is to get an EGR valve and plug that sucker back in. It is my hope that all this other stuff will just disappear. I don't think it's mere coincidence these issues popped up after the delete. As soon as I find one and put it back in...I'll update this thread. Hopefully I won't have to chase some of the other suggestions here, so easiest first right?

Big thanks to those that replied and I hope this season finds you and your family healthy.

no worries, sniggly. i hope ur making better progress. we're all here for u. happy new year to u and ur family!

zhilton: yes sir! i stand corrected again. ur right pal. no messing wif the egr valve there, or its curtains for ya. lol. u live in a glass house?? ohh! lmao. happy holidays to u too, pal.

I dont think plugging the EGRvalve back in will help the running issues. Pretty sure stock programming checks EGR flow. If there is no exhaust flow thru your egr cooler, it will put the truck in limp mode regardless of whether or not the EGR valve is plugged in.

The only way to run that new EGR-less intake is with tunes that remove exhaust flow thru the EGR cooler from the programming.

LMFAO Dom ur funney Bro Curtains and all

To the OP get that egr valve plugged back in for fan operation Mainly you might overheat in the summer but the fan dont work right with the EGR Valve unplugged. I cant remember what model Cheezit tested in this thread but all models have a similair outcome Iv followed this for a few for the diffrent years/models

Unplugged EGR VALVE & the problems that follow
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...egr-valve.html


Depending on what year/stratigy you have I didnt see but the PCM will use EBP and IAT to determine EGR Valve position and functionality/preformance
so you will need a tuner with a stratigy that doesnt look for these things

I know it's a factor on the '05 thru '07 trucks...not sure on the '03 & '04 engines...but I still say try the simple things before moving onto the next step.

where is this control valve, do you have a pic? is this the grey tube that plugs into the front of the vaccum solenoid on the passenger side? i am curious cause mine doesn't seem to want to stay on, and i have been dealing with similar a/c issues.

That's the one. Mine kept slipping off also, I just cut the end off and used some vacuum hose as a "new connector".

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE
 

I'll try and make this short and brief.

Yesterday I contacted my local Ford Dealer and spoke with the service manager. I asked if he had an EGR valve floating around the shop that I could have. He did...and he gave it to me for free......

BUT......

When I got into the truck to start it (while at the Ford dealer)...the damn thing wouldn't start!!! This weird intermittent no start condition is what led to me tearing into the motor to begin with. I thought it was an oil pressure issue...so I did all the work mentioned in the original post (left out that I did dummy plugs too).

Now I KNOW this no start condition was not caused by the missing EGR valve that was just plugged back in....but I unplugged it just in case...and it still wouldn't work. I wobbled into the shop office there at the dealership and slammed myself down into the chair and didn't say a damn thing for a little too long. The Shop Manager (Tom) looked at me and said...'you okay'?

I said, "no...it won't start". Gave him the whole story about what I'd been through. He walked me out into the shop and got one of the mechanics to bring his laptop out to my truck. After telling the mechanic all the stuff I've done and discussing the possibilities, he hooked his laptop up and ran a bunch of tests. Said the PCM was throwing a bunch of EGR related codes. He plugged the EGR valve BACK IN...ran the computer again...and the codes went away.

THEN HE TURNED THE KEY AND THE TRUCK STARTED!.....I just stood there....speechless...and completely unaware of reality.

He ran the PCM through some self tests (my oil pressure was 580 after it settled down). The mechanic said that these motors even give them fits sometimes and not to worry about it. The only other thing he found was a fan cooling circuit fault..either the connector or the clutch itself. He also said, based on the discussion we had concerning the work I had done, that I should pull the IPR valve and check. Said that was the logical first step and he bet his paycheck there was something in the valve that was causing the intermittent no start. He also said that I should have the EGR valve plugged in just to get the fan to operate correctly....but that I still needed to chase down the fan cooling circuit issue.

In short the dealership was very very accommodating and helped in every way they could, short of letting me rack and dig through their tool boxes. The mechanic even gave me a screen kit (free) for the IPR valve. They didn't even charge me for the help (they know I'm broke as hell!) :)

So now I'm off chasing the methods to get this IPR valve out etc. Big thanks to the forum here. Good to have you guys.

Pull the turbo. The IPR valve is right below/behind it.