slyave cyclinder leaking what do i do to fix it
 

I have a 1994 ford F150 XL with a 5 speed trans and there is fluid in my bell housing what to i need to do to fix it? im over my budget on this truck after changing my oil pan so if u know a cheap way to fix it please help.

I take it you have an internal slave since you said you have fluid IN your bellhousing.. So the slave will need to be replaced, as there is no rebuilding them that I am aware of... The only way I see to save money is to do it yourself and save the labor costs, but do yourself a favor and don't buy the cheapest slave you can find, you will just be doing it again soon if you do.

Sorry to say its time to pull the trans...There's no way around it unless you want to try a bottle of seal-saver or something from the parts stores. While you're in there might be a good time to replace the clutch too.

I'm not a big fan of those types of products, but I really wouldn't mix anything like that with brake fluid.

so what is the best slave cylinder i found one for 50 at o'rillys and i know i need a new clutch i have the trans off already because of the oil pan i had to change. but on top of that i need new motor mount bushings too. im broke i havent worked on a roof in 2 weeks so where can i get the clutch pad for cheep found one for 40.

Unless you want to do it all again in a few months you should only fit a Ford slave cyl. Try partsguyed.com for a good price.
You could also try carolinaclutch.com for other clutch parts.

DO NOT BUY A CHEAP SLAVE CYLINDER.

It will leak within months. Buy one from Ford only.

Also if there is brake fluid on the clutch you will have to do that too. It will chatter and slip if it's soaked bad enough.

Andy, I have a similar, yet unique issue....

On startup, my tranny chatters along, like it has something loose inside...Then, after approx. 3-6 seconds, it gets quiet...

And when I push the clutch in, to go in reverse from 1st, or 1st to reverse, the pedal won't return to it's original position....I have to pump it about 10-20 times....and then I can take off, and even then the pedal acts funky...If I don't watch, the pedal sticks while fully depressed...

Then, as I change through the gears, it is sorta hard to make the shifts.....it's like the clutch isn't fully disengaging; till I've driven a few miles and the engine/ tranny have warmed up....

I inspected the tranny....There's old fluid stains from the shifter mount, etc...But nothing fresh....

And there is what appears to be brake fluid SLOWLY seeping/ dripping from the main front of the bell housing, where the metal inspection plate is...

I've pulled the rubber inspection plug out and looked inside....Looks pretty dry inside, and from what I can tell, the Slave Cylinder is dry from any obvious leaks....Haven't inspected it while someone presses the clutch in and out...

It leaks enough that I have to keep a watch on the clutches master cylinder, each week, and refill as needed.....

Would I be better off to drop $500 on a rebuild kit, a Motorcraft s/ c, and whatnot, or find another tranny for about the same money....I'd personally like a 4 speed to go with my 300......

Wes, are you sure it's brake fluid and not transmission fluid? Brake fluid is water soluble but transmission fluid isn't so it's easy to see what you have.

If it's transmission fluid, then it's probably the rubber plugs on top of the tranny. There is a tech article on how to fix them.

If it's brake fluid then it's either the master, slave, or the line between them. If the line is dry and you're finding brake fluid near the bellhousing it's probably the slave. They aren't hard to replace but you will need to drop the tranny to get to it.

Based on my issues with the clutch pedal, would you say I'm needing to lean more toward the slave, line, etc...?

On my 95 with 185k miles i ended up replacing the slave, then 3 months later i had to replace the master, had similar issues where the truck would shift but just didnt feel quite right. When bleeding the clutch i had the best luck by filling the resivoir and using my hand pump to pull vacuum on the bleeder screw on the slave.

I am having issues with my slave cylinders as well, I am in the process of putting the 3rd one in in 6 months. The first 2 were cheap aftermarket ones, so probly my own fault. However I went to the local Ford dealer and ordered one. When I recieved it, I inspected it, and then got thinking it looked familiar. Took it to the local NAPA store and compared the 2. They were exactly the same. Same manufacturer's mark, and exact same casting number. I took it back, cause it cost $100 more in a Ford box than in a NAPA box. And the guy at the Ford dealership gave me attitude when I asked why they were selling aftermarket parts. Can someone tell me what the best slave cylinder to put it would be? How are Centric slaves? And can anyone tell me if I can get one that isn't made in China or Mexico?

Hard to say. You just have to get under it and look.