All Brake Pins Replaced....now what?
 

Had the pins done on my front calipers a few weeks ago, then had the rears done as well, drove it to work happy I could drive my rig again......both the front and right rear were dragging and locking up, to the point where my right rear was dragging locked on a tight right turn on wet pavement.

Checked them when I got to work.........smelled like a baboon pissed on my rotors.......back into the shop (friend of ours) to have the calipers done....

Am I looking at $600-1000 here?

Figures my other truck is in the shop with a blown steering rack puking fluid everywhere......

Two trucks and I can't get one to work when I need them....:(

Loaded calipers (with pads) should run no more than about $130 each from Napa. Takes about an hour to do an axle. Not hard at all if you know how to turn a wrench. Another 15 minutes with a partner to bleed the brakes after replacing the calipers.

Could be that the shop just didn't clean out the slide pin sockets well enough, or may have used either too little or too much brake pin lube. Too much is as bad as none at all because it can cause the pin to hydro-lock and not move the way it should. Same thing can happen if there is a lump of corrosion left in a socket that could cause the new pin to get in a bind.

For years, I was scared to death to do my own brake work... seemed like a huge mystery surrounding that type of work. Now that I've done some brake work, I'll never let anyone else touch my brakes. Do it yourself and save yourself about $200-$300 in labor costs.

Once I had my front calipers not release after applying brakes on my Jeep. The front wheels got VERY hot. I replaced my rotted rubber brake hoses and everthing worked fine. The hoses were so restricted the that the brake fluid would go into the caliper but not out.....

Mark

4 bolts and a break line and your done
Take the rotors and get them turned while you have it apart if they were that hot could have warpt them better safe than sorry

If you have two calipers locking up at the same time you may want to check the master cylinder.

Having two separate calipers locking up at the same time is either extremely ironic or something that controls all of the brakes in general is causing the problem.

I am by far no brake expert but I did just replace a froze caliper that was hanging up on my ride. A very easy job to do as long as you have a set of wrenches and somebody that can push the brake pedal for ya'.

Let us know which way you want to go and somebody will walk you through it.

Thanks for the responses guys.

I thought it was a little strange to have two acting up at the same time as well.

Originally the wheel that acted up two months ago was the right front, replaced the pins and things were fine for a couple weeks then the left rear started locking. Repalcced the rear ones, now the right rear and right front.....

Maybe the brake lines and master cylider are worth checking out.....

Pulling the back discs/drums for turning invites a whole new realm of headache heretofore not encountered by us mere mortals. The parking brake is a drum set in the center of the rotor. Replacing the caliper is a piece of cake, but removing the rear rotor starts you down the garden path and I wouldn't want to do it until it's time to work on the rotors or the parking brake.

That being said, my brake did it's little stunt the very first time I towed. I was towing my boat down a very steep hill and I had my foot deep in it to keep things happy. My left-rear brake siezed and I didn't know it because I hadn't towed with the rig before and I was just a little underwhelmed with the pulling power. That 7.3 has so much power, that I didn't know I had a dragging/smoking brake caliper until I could smell it in the cab and see it in the mirror. This happened at 230,000 miles and and I had to remember that gas vehicles are done at the kind of odo reading, so I'm going to see strange stuff from here on. If you have two calipers going out and that 6th digit left of the decimal is greater then 1 on the odometer (200,000 or more), I'd strongly suggest you visit those other calipers as well.

Anyway, my total rear brake job was $800 - in PARTS (including 2 new calipers) and a whole Saturday on my knees. I've done many brakes before and I did this work myself, but the rear brakes on this beast are not for the fainthearted or flimsy finances. The Ford dealership brake guy is my neighbor and I asked him if I was doing something wrong and he replied "We've all made special tools to make this a little easier, but it's still a pain in the a55".

I almost forgot - if you buy parking-brake shoes, don't get ceramic or anything with high-wear characteristics - just get something with good holding power. Remember, it's only a parking brake and it's job is to keep the wheel from starting to spin.

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Well, for this job, doing myself is just not going to happen........I have a project at work sucking time like a black hole and I haven't seen my house in daylight in several weeks......plus I have no garage and it is pissing rain.....

Add all that up as well ass the fact I have to give bacck my loaner car to my father when he comes back from FL for the holidays and I'm slapping a credit card down on this one.

Merry Christmas to me..........

Couple that with my other truck/rusty POS heading into the shop for 3 recalls and it is puking steering fluid all over the place........

Two trucks netiher work right now......yikes.....

Agreed on the hoses. After having two less than year old calipers hang up I replaced all the hoses on the truck. Right front hose was rotted on the inside. Knock on wood everything has been fine for about 4000 miles.

Start spraying the PB Blaster on your brake line/hose fittings well before diving into this job!

I'm having one troublesom caliper replaced in the front and having the others adjusted and have them redo the pin install (ensure the holes are cleaned out etc. Also having the system bleed front and back etc.

I'm not loving chasing brake problems on this rig.........

Good luck let us know the final out come.

Just mentioning this for the sake of it.

One thing that didn't come up it this thread is the anti-lock brake system. If you have just rear ABS a fault in the ABS module can cause both rear brakes to lock up. Real wheel ABS does not control the rear brakes individually but both at the same time. If you have 4WABS then a fault in the module can cause either or both front brakes to lock up. 4WABS controls the front brakes individually and as in rear wheel ABS the 4WABS controls both rear brakes simultaneously.

I have to admit, I don't have much faith that this issue is licked yet.

I'll drive it around locally (so I can get home quickly) over the next week and see how things go.

How much would I be looking at if I ahd all the lines replaced? I saw that front lines seem cheapish.......$100 for SS etc. but that looks like it is only the final segment of the brake line in the fronts.....Iassume the hard lines should be good providing they aren't kinked, right?

Effing brakes, I never wanted to know this much about my brakes......evidently I need to know even more......

Yep, just like an oil change, I'm the only one who does the brakes on my vehicles.

Stewart

That's great and all, I do my own oil, but I have no garage and I live at the office to pay this ****e :p, plus I don't have near enough tools to get the job done.

Sure I would like the tools, the time the place, but it just ain't happening this time around......

Although it this doesn't do it........I may be forced to let it sit for a few weeks or months until I can figure out what to do.

How hard is replacing brake lines? What do I need? Any nice tutorials around :-X04