Here is what I did. I just cut where the frame dropped down so I could raise it up flat. The piece you can see that is clamped on the bottom is a piece of an old Ranger frame that I welded onto the bottom to insure a strong flat surface. You can also see that I cut a hole for the alignment pins. I cut the hole a little larger than the pin then put a 3/4" flat washer over the pin before mocking up the CV. Once the CV was exactly aligned where I wanted it, I welded the washer in place. That will allow me to remove the front end and replace it back to exactly where it needs to go. When installing the CV I also placed washers between the pads around the bolts and the bottom of the frame so both pads and the alignment pin were spaced the same. I hope this helps some. I'll post a couple more pics.Attachment 202526

Nice pictures! I guess there is no way around cutting into the frame. I was wanting to not cut it if possible but I will do what ever is necessary. Thank you for all the input. I am going to start this project after the semester ends... (Dec. 16). I can't wait!! If there is anything else I should know before I start feel free to post it.

You don't have to cut the frame. You can add material to the bottom.
I have seen a 4 inch rectangular tubing added to the bottom of the frame
to keep a stock ride height. there are many ways to skin this cat. keep looking
until you find something someone has done that you like.
Good luck on the build and keep us posted.

Twitbeck is right in that there are several ways to do it. This is just how I did it. Good luck with the swap!!

Great point. The only reasonable requirement would be the mounting point be level. As you look at your IFS you will see how much actually contacts the frame. I do not see why a spacer made to those dimensions out of something like alum (crossmember is alum) to level up the crossmember. That would not require any mods to the frame. Since your IFS is not in yet can you grab the dimension from hub face to hub face where the wheels mount. I have someone on another site looking for that dimension.

Thanks for the information. I may fix a piece of c-channel to the bottom side of the frame to flatten it out. I haven't yet decided. And yes I will measure that tomorrow. I just got back from TTU so I will do it tomorrow in the daylight. I have another question. In another forum I read from elgemcdlf, he was talking about the spacers inside the frame of the CV. He said that you can get those spacers out of the CV frame and drill a hole in the top of my truck frame and slide the spacers through the frame and weld them in. My question is, Do I need to put any kind of flat metal on top of them to support the upper mount? Or will the lone cylindrical spacers work fine? It just seems to me that the upper mount would need support towards the center of the mount. This may not make any sense to anyone but it's hard to explain without pictures.

Yes, I understand, because I have seen pictures. I agree, the cylinders (that look like short pipes) need support. I think we should build up the frame with
extra material top to bottom to cover and support the cylinders. As I think about it we really don't know what the original engineering was in designing the CV IFS. I suppose if someone could take some before and after pics of the engine bay of the car, we would get some clues as to what really needs to be done in the f100 engine bay/frame.

Maybe others have address it, but I would say the f100 frame does need to be boxed all the way from in front of IFS to the fire wall, maybe farther.

The CV frame seems to be of thinner material than my truck frame. The shock tower supports bolt directly to the top of the spacers when in the CV. I have mine mounted the same way. The spacers are there to keep the rails from collapsing since those are the mounting points and they would have a tendancy to pull together without something supporting them. They have a very thick wall.

I was there when the IFS was pulled from the car that I used so perhaps my perspective is a bit different. There are probably other guys here that either pulled their own or seen theirs being pulled that may be able to offer some insight.

The CV frame is boxed back to the firewall. Maybe further but I didn't look. There is a thread running around where the guy bought the entire car and has pics of him disassembling it. I do not remember anything more about it other than it is in the bump section.

Okay I got the measurements that elgemcdlf wanted. Keep in mind these measurements are with the wheels on and I didn't have anyone holding the other side of the tape for me, but I measured from the flat surface that the wheel mounts to on the caliper to the other side. I got 67.5". I then went and measured an old front end out of a '58 F-100 and got 66.5". So that is only a half inch difference on either side, not too shabby. Again these are measurements taken at eyeball status because I already have the wheels on the front suspension. And as far as the spacers go I think I am going to use elgemcdlf's idea and drill a hole in the top of the frame the size of the o.d of the spacer and slide it through and weld it to the frame. But after that I'm going to "build up" the frame with maybe c-channel or plate steel or something of the like to make it flush with the top of the spacer so the upper support will have some support too.

I am in the process of installing a 06 CV front suspension and a T-Bird IRS 5.0 HO and AOD tranny

CV
Moved axle ¾ in forward of original center line, bought new spools to go through frame
Used 79 pick up steering column, bottom of shaft was machined to fit ford universal joint, also bottom plastic bushing was replaced with a fabricated alum end with a small bearing to secure bottom shaft.
Was able to used stock CV collapsible section to connect rack to column
Used C-7 Corvette motors mounts, inverted and bolted to CV mounts, fabricated new brackets to 5.0 block, worked great

IRS
Did not like the looks of 321 front brackets looking so low, so cut them off and fabricated brackets and bolted to frame. Also did not use rear rubber mounts but rather welded circular plates to the top of the carrier then fabricated frame brackets so they could be bolted together. Carrier is bolted to the frame without any rubber mounts.
Fabricated top spring mounts welded to frame. Bought 2 in adapter spacers to get to CV bolt pattern, Wheels are 17” similar offset as 2010 17” mazda

Progress
Front suspension completed, brake lines run Engine and tranny installed, Cab back on, IRS welding finished, have to fabricate brackets and install shocks and then install springs. Cab was removed as the front cab mounts were rusted out and needed replacing.
It’s winter up here a no heat in my garage so work has been put on hold until warmer weather. If you would like some picks let me know

Rick

I would like to see pics of the IRS install. Without modification of the third member mount I do not see how your pinion angle will be anywhere close to correct if I understand how you mounted the subframe. Raising the subframe much at all will leave you with a situation of the rear being lower than the front. I took out 1/2 coil & have 1 1/2" drop springs in the CV IFS. I used Team 321's mount kit & have a rake of 1 3/4". My rear tires are slightly taller than the fronts but none of the wheels/tires are staying.

I put quite a bit of thought into solid mount of the subframe and opted for the rubber bushings. No real proof but figured Ford had a reason for mounting it that way in the car. Kinda figured they are used to help absorb road shock.

If there would be a complaint but I see no real way around it when used in combination with the CV IFS is how low the front mounts are but it isn't any big deal. Not like I am offroading with the truck.

I would like to see some pictures. I'm starting this swap Monday and I would like to see some more detailed pictures. I'm also curious as to how long did the CV IFS swap take you? And that question goes to anyone that has done this swap. Thanks.

Also, 58cdn100, why did you move the front suspension forward 3/4 of an inch? and did have to "flatten" the bottom of the frame? I'm assuming you did this on a '58. Here's another question to anyone that has done this swap. I have the section of frame that the spacers are in from both sides. (Approximately 12-15 inches) I'm thinking that I can remove the spacers from the CV frame sections, then remove the outside vertical section of the CV frame which will allow me to slide it onto the truck frame. Then I can line up the holes where I want them and weld the CV frame section to the truck frame and replace the vertical frame portion. After this I can drill the holes for the spacers to go in and re weld them back in. I could then smooth out the seams by adding/taking away metal as necessary. This will give me the CV factory spacing and frame width along with a completely flat bottom frame all in one swoop.:-X22 I've been kicking this idea around in my head for a couple days now since it came to me one night while trying to sleep. (this is when my brain goes crazy thinking up ideas) My question is what do ya'll think? and will it be worth the time? I think it will simplify the process and remove my calculating and fabricating errors. FYI I DO plan to add metal to transition the width difference between the two frames and I will be boxing the front portion of the frame. So feel free to state your opinions.