HID conversion for bullnose trucks
 

It doesnt go into specifics bout size but its a full kit with wire harness and everythin.
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Im tempted to order them and see if theyll work.

They look cool BUUUT


35W (+/- 1W) Output

sounds weak, but i dont know how the HID Wattage works VS Halogen.


I have silverstars in my truck right now, plus I did a relay conversion, id say 20% brighter or more than factory.

Lookin at Ford F350 HIDs Ford F350 HID Kits Headlight Conversions Xenon Bulbs they dont even have watts listed its by Ks whatever that means (lumens?). These on ebay are at 8000k. Doin a little diggin seems that 35w is normal for HIDs due to the higher normal light output.

Gas-filled bulbs (halogen, xenon, etc.) use a solid filament to produce light (electrical power causes the filament to glow); HIDs produce light by creating an electrical arc between two contacts within the bulb (like a welding arc).

That might somewhat explain the wattage difference. Two totally different technologies.

The K stands for Kelvin. When I put HIDs on my motorcycle I did a little research and found out that the best range (for me anyways) was between 5,000 - 6000K. It most closely resembles natural sunlight. Here's a quick run down of the different temps and the similar light they produce:

1500°K - Candlelight
2680°K - 40w halogen bulb
3000°K - 200w halogen bulb
3200°K - Sunrise/Sunset
3500-4300°K - Most Xenon Superwhite Bulbs
5500°K - Sunny daylight around noon
6000°K-7500°K - Overcast Sky, Some true HID Systems
8000°K-9000°K - Sunny blue sky, Some true HID Systems
10,000°K - 12,000°K - Purple hues at sundown

So with those 8,000K lights you'll have a blue hue to the light. They look really cool but do not provide the best light for the road.

As far as the wattage, my research showed that when HIDs are turned on they initially take more power and then use less energy overall after they have warmed up.

**This is kind of important** You will want to ensure that the kit you purchase will do both high and low beam. A lot of the ebay kits will only do low beam.

That's because of the coils (or some such) that warm up the bulbs, correct?

I'm not too sure of that. I was more interested in the initial draw on power because this was going on my sport touring motorcycle. I have heated gear, radar, GPS and a couple of other goodies on the bike and my concern was that I would be taxing the charging system too much. No problems though as I've been running both hi and lo HIDs on the bike for over 3 years now without issue.

I've got the 5500K's on my bike and they are fantastic. The only negative is that when I turn on the hi beam it takes a second to warm up so you don't really get that "instant" flash when trying to alert someone to turn off their hi beams. But once it warms up (I'd guesstimate 3 seconds) it's amazing the amount of light it throws.

I'm worried about this line in the description:

"No Instruction Included. Prefessional installation is highly recommended"

It's really simple, I have HID 6000 H4's, with black projector housing in my '82 f150. The only wiring is splicing into the headlight wires and tying them into your ballasts from the HID kit, the rest is as easy as installing a new bulb. @Eightyfive Flareside, I'm interested in this "relay conversion" you did that made your headlights 20% brighter, I've never heard of this, care to explain what you did?

The relay kit is available through LMC. Instead of your headlights getting all their power from the headlight switch, the kit puts them on relays that are switched on when you turn on your headlight switch (which also means less load on your switch). There are two relays, one for high beam and one for low. It's all plug and play too. The one thing I suggest adding to the kit is an inline fuse, since it doesn't have one out-of-the-box and you definitely want circuit protection on something like this. I used an 80 amp bolt-on fusible link.

I have the kit on my truck and it did make a noticeable difference in how bright the headlights are. I have mismatched bulbs, one halogen and one sealed beam, and even then it's still brighter than alot of newer cars' lights.

The kit might even work with your HID setup, since you'd be getting quite a bit more power to the ballasts.

i went down to napa and bought a relay + harness for it, cost me 15 bucks, then spliced the relay into the headlight circuit. 1 relay for lows, 1 for high, so the bulb can get direct power from the batter/alternator, rather than flowing through the switch and dimmer circuit first. i gained 2.something volts at the bulb by doing this, thats load tested with the light on high beam with a pretty nice digital multi meter.

How to install headlight relays....the right way. - Northwest Underground

write up^

Relays and an H4 conversion are a must in any vehicle with sealed beams, far more light on the road and they have a nice cut off.

I have yet to do an HID conversion on my truck so I can't comment too much but after helping install the DDM Tuning kit in a friend's Sonoma I highly recommend them. They seem to be high quality and a great price. Probably one of my next upgrades on the '86.

DDM Tuning : HID Kits

They have their own conversion lenses here: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/200mm-halogenLamp

To me they just look like a Trucklite / Vision X / LMC Branded Conversion Lens...

And even then you still have to watch as most hi/low kits on there have a crappy halogen bulb that really does nothing.

Thanks http://avatars.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/s...ine=1265659615 TheKirbyMan and Eightyfive Flareside for the reply, I din't know why I never heard of this, maybe I should have done this instead of the HID, but the HID looks way cooler........... :)

Just remember, other drivers reserve the right to brake check and/or apply crowbars to every set of crappy ugly ghetto blue poorly aimed faux HID's. Man are those things ugly. If they are done right, it's all good. Unfortunatley, most ebay kits are not.

/rant