Batteries act dead, but show 12.2v, won't start?
 

Well, I replaced the instrument cluster illumination lights yesterday ('00 F250), just with the stock 194's since the console was very dim.

This morning went to start and the battery acts dead, turns over a quarter turn and then clicks as if dead.

Didn't leave any lights on over night, only got down to 56 (Michigan).

Batteries show 12.2v but (poor quality meter). Jumped with new truck, no drwa noticed when I connected them. Waited several minutes, same thing, except I also noticed the windshield wipers slowly going through a cycle (they're off).

What the heck did I do in there?

The windshield wipers mean the computer thinks the batteries have been disconnected. I'd start by taking the battery cables loose and cleaning them. Remember each cable has 2 ends. Clean both ends.

Then have someone hold the meter on the batteries while you turn the key on and then crank. See if the voltage is dropping off when you try to crank. Might be worth charging the batteries too.

Thanks for the quick reply Chris. I'll get on it right now, not what I planned on for the day though!

Could I have knocked something else loose under there when I was vacuuming out behind the dash too?

X2 On what Chris said! If you now someone with a battery load tester have them load tested.

My truck will crank slow but still starts,with the battery's at 12v.They are normaly at 12.5 each.

Also Welcome to FTE! :)

I just had this problem I went to harbor fright and got a battery load tester for $20 and a hydrometer. Tested the cells and batteries and found three dead cells. Replaced he batteries and presto.

I have a 200amp load tester built in my Century commercal battery charger. Comes in handy. I had a battery, several months ago, that tested 4 bad cells. Before that, I discovered some charging problems with the alternator because the hydrometer readings were showing int the 50-75% charge range and wouldn't build beyond that. Fast forward to new batteries and alterantor...never started so good in a long time. The original alternator was charging, but not at full capacity.

Here's a thread, that might give you some direction, if its a similar problem...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-you-did.html

Cleaned the battery cable connector's/terminals, no change. In fact worse. With key in the run position, but before turning to crank, chimes and lights flash off and on, relay switching under the dash. It's like a constant cycling of the key from off to run.

With this coinciding with having the instrument console out, it seems like I did something in there.

Dead Batteries... happened to me a week ago... Replace them..

The confusion you experienced is common when using lead-acid "flooded" batteries.

There's more to the equation than just voltage, and that's available current.

Just as important as "charge-state" is "reserve capacity".

Reserve capacity diminishes over time, and at end-of-life, a battery may still be capable of producing its full 12.6 volts, but it's effectively the size of one of those small batteries you see as a back-up in alarm systems. At that point, it's not capable of producing the amperage necessary to start the truck.

The reduction in reserve capacity is caused by the battery's plates getting covered by sulphation. That forms on the plates anytime the battery gets below about eighty percent of fully-charged, and is only partially reversible. As a result, the battery will last the longest if you keep it as fully-charged as possible during its entire life.

But, there will always be an end-of-life. How far in the future depends on a few things, but charge-state is one of the biggies. If I were not driving mine daily, I would have a float-charger on it. Additionally, an "equalization charge" is desirable every six months or so to "top it off".

But good care only extends the time at which your batteries WILL die, and you found out when!

Then, there's only one fix, and you did it!

Pop

thanks for all of the replies.

All of the accessories seem to have power, lights are not dim, and operate (when not going nuts blinking and cycling).

What are the chances they suddenly died the day after I fooled around under the dash and with thew console instrument lights?? After I fixed the console lights, I didn't think to try and start it.

How old were your batteries?

How well have you kept them charged, thus preventing sulphation?

Pop

Just bought the truck last month. The bateries show they're five years old.

Does your dash do this?

Dead Batteries - Powerstroke 7.3 - YouTube

That was a few days after I bought the truck. Lights came on, Radio came on. No start, just a bunch of clicking. Batteries were toast.

That is what it does, except it does it immediately before I even try and crank.

So batteries then????