My 302 is drinking oil like its soda pop
 

I have discover a problem with my truck. My oil level is always low. I fill the oil to the proper level and a month later when I check the oil level, its low about two quarts. I guess the oil gauge is functioning ok since I upgraded from the idiot light to the actual gauge. I change the oil oil pressure sending, but my engine seems to have a thirst for oil. Can someone help me solve this issue?

it's a ford. every ford i've ever had from 4 cylinders to 8's has used oil. not 2 quatrs a month, though. usually 1/4 to 1/2 every three months.

I'm going to do a oil change and Check it every week to see if I can accurately gauge the oil loss.

Is it leaking or burning? If you are truly burning 2 quarts a month, you'd be fogging the cars behind you like a mosquito sprayer. And if you're leaking that much, you'll have some pretty good puddles under your truck, and the whole underside of your rig will be coated in oil. When was the last time you checked/changed your PCV valve?

:-huh That's what I was gonna say except Chev**let }>

i agree, you'd be smoking like crazy or everything under your truck would have a thick coating of gunk if you were losing that much.
check the back bolts on your valve covers. if they're loose there will be oil on your firewall.
i've owned two fords that i bought new and they both magically made a little bit of oil disappear between changes straight off the factory floor. all my dodges have always stayed full between changes.

My 1995 f150 with the in line 6 motor never leaked lost a drop of oil in 13 years. The beast was a good one.

Check the valve guide rubber seals, inside the valve spring. Just a thought.:-X21

The intake manifold gaskets are notorious on these for being badly installed as they can sometimes move out of position when the manifold is placed down. I'd check along the front and rear edges for leakage (I had this problem once - turned out to be leaking from the back seal and down the rear of the engine where I couldn't easily see it. Stripped it off and replaced it correctly with gasket maker and the problem disappeared immediately)

Let me back up a little. I don't have a leak or else there would be a oil stain on the driveway and my wife would be nagging me to clean it up. I checked it yesterday and it was at the low mark. I cant' remember the exact time before then, but I do remember it was at the low mark and I added two quarts of oil.

The PVC valve was installed in November of 2009, I had custom engine mounts installed, so while the engine was out, I had new timing chain and sprocket/oil pan, pump, pick up tube/valve covers/water pump/fuel pump installed as well.

I don't have smoke barreling out the exhaust. I saw a light blue cloud coming out yesterday and thought is was because I adjusted the mixing screws on the carb. That's why I'm going to have to start from scratch with a fresh oil change and keep a weekly record of the oil level. I don't drive it much, maybe once or twice a week to break up the routine. I put gas in every two week, 87 octane, should I be using a additive? What type on oil should I be using in a 37 year old engine, conventional or synthetic.

what jake08 said. sounds like the valve seals. might be time to re-do those heads.

blue smoke is oil
Black smoke is fuel
white smoke is water/antifreeze

I just threw that out because you messed with the idle screws, and blue smoke wouldn't come from that.

I was wondering if I should upgrade to aluminum heads or just have the cast iron ones rebuilt. I want to go with a set of Edelbrock SB Ford aluminum heads. My goal is th build a Edelbrock 302 engine, just need the heads and a water pump to complete the project.

So I'm burning off the oil then. I guess the heads really need to be rebuilt or replaced.

doesn't sound like you use this all the time. personally, i would just rebuild the heads. do your homework on aluminum heads. gaskets, torque specs, metallic differences, compatibility with your system, expence. is it worth it? i wouldn't do it just for looks. (imho)