A tape works. I use a piece of thin wall tubing with a dowel rod inside and at one end. Something like vice grips on on the tubing to hold an adjustment on the dowel rod and you have a pretty darn accurate way to check toe. Both pieces I had on hand.

Thanks for that. Great idea. I was fighting to keep the tape rigid at a height near the center of the tire. With your method, the dowel could be set on something (brick, block, bucket) and make the measurement easier. I should mark a dowel before I loosen anything again to make it easier to reset it to the same width. :-drink

This is the part where we both say, "man, I could really use a good blasting setup right about now."

That would have made the job a lot easier and faster. But I managed to make it look pretty good anyway. It's in the garage until I can get the tie rod ends from NAPA (or elsewhere).

I learned something from 52 Merc indirectly when I got this part from him. Instead of fighting with the remaining old tie rod end (which I have not tried to remove yet) I think I'll just cut it off. Gonna replace it anyway... :-jammin

Tis the season...
 

Since she's not going anywhere, I decorated Betsy for the season.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e4d342890b.jpg

Atta Boy! she looks great!

She looks ghostly. Any comments from the neighbors?

Yes, I should get her painted red, and put a Santa or snowman in the cab.:)

LOL That is AWESOME! I love it! Puts new meaning into 'yard art'!

Thanks guys.

If I get a lighted Santa or snowman to put in the cab, I'll post another pic. My wife loves the idea. And since I hope to have Betsy road worthy before NEXT Christmas, this may be the last time I decorate her. But... maybe not.

I borrowed my son's timing light a few weeks ago, and tried to set the timing. But even with the distributor cranked to the stop, I couldn't make the marks line up. It was too far advanced, and was harder to start.

Then I read this reply from 38 coupe in another thread: "I set the timing at TDC (0 degrees) with the engine off. Turn the engine by hand until the pointer is aimed at the "bump". Pull the distributor cap. Loosen the distributor. Turn the ignition on. Start with the distributor at full retarded and slowly advance it. When the points spark, stop turning the distributor and lock it down. No timing light needed."

I made sure the rotor was pointing at #1 plug ( it can point 180 out with the timing marks lined up) although I doubt it makes a difference, and followed these instructions. The truck starts easier and runs smoother than it has since I got it.

And rather than turning the engine by hand, I used the button on the starter relay to crank the starter. If you do use this method, make sure the ignition key is OFF and the truck is in neutral before pushing that little button. :-X0A6

Yeah i can't seem to get my timing light to work right on my '53 Mainline (215 Inline 6) I know it's a good timing light as it works on other stuff. I wonder if it being a 6V system, if that throws the light off. I ended up just setting it by trial and error. Will have to try your method next spring when i pull it out of it's cocoon.

But it there any truth in that? Do you have to use a timing light specific to a 6v system? I noticed the same thing with my dwell meter too. Was giving me weird readings... ended up just setting by gap. And input on this?

I used an inductive timing light, and since the light flashed using the 6 volt battery, I can't believe 6v versus 12v makes any difference. It senses the spark to light the light. :-huh

I bought an old Snap-On 6V timing light at an estate sale over the summer for $5. Works like a charm.

So, does it make a difference if it's a 12v timing light? Does a 12v timing light not work on a 6v system?:-huh

EDIT: I Googled it and came up with this...
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/timinglight.html