removing a cab from frame
Hey do you guys know how to remove a cab from the frame? I am parting out the 73 F100 I got an I guess cut the frame up an scrap the frame the frame is in A1 shape.
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This is how I do it:
1. Soak all your cab mounts and front clip bolts in wd40 or equivalent for as long as you can 2. Remove hood 3. Disconnect wiring from cab and remove battery but keep track of those wires 4. Disconnect brakes at MC 5. Disconnect Clutch rod at base along with any shift linkages (and trans tunnel cover if applicable) 6. Disconnect parking brake and speedometer cable 8. Remover steering shaft from column and steering box 7. Drain/remove radiator 8. Disconnect body mounts (try turning them but have a grinder/cutting torch ready) keep in mind that some of them break and only look like they're still connected just try lifting the corner if you're unsure 9. Remove front clip 10. Roll down windows and run an 12' 4x4 post through 11. Put tires on ends of post 12. Wrap chains around post and lift with forks Another option if you don't have a tractor is to find a tall garage built for heavy snow loads and run a chain around a post laid on top of the rafters. You'll need something to lift it with like a chain hoist or a block and tackle and you can't move it unless you can put it on a trailer/flatbed. Someone is probably going to say "Just get 4 friends and lift it" but if you have to lift it over shifters and onto a flatbed I hope you have friends ate their wheaties. Put it on blocks if you leave it outside! It doesn't take much to ruin a good floor |
Are you wanting to know what to disconnect or just how to get it off of the frame.
Getting it off the frame is easy as long as you have one of these things. 1) Tractor with bucket and strap through the windows. 2) 4 strong friends either with gloves or 2 8' 4x4's put under cab and lifted up an away.It will be front heavy so watch that. 3) If it still on rubber just jack it up a bit ,let the air out of the tires and pull the frame out from under it. Just a few ideas for you. I've done it all 3 ways and the tractor is obviously the easiest. I'm sure there are plenty more ideas out there. |
I have seen pics on here of somebody using a eng hoist put in the cab, with the doors off and the chain bolted to the floor using the seat belt bolts holes.
And a ratchet strap around the lower front edge, sorry can't find the pic. Its a truck rebuild thread.....somewhere. |
Well I`d remove the doors unbolt anything holding it down, unbolt the shifters so you can slide the cab back the frame without having to lift it too high and get 4 friends which ate their wheaties. Some people say to stick forks through the cab and lift it up with a tractor but anybody which I`ve seen do that always seems bend the metal or break the drip rails some way or another. I`m not saying its wrong but just something to think about. Good luck
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ok thanks I was thinking of sliding it off on landscaping timbers an sitting it in the building beside the Mustang the front clip is not bolted down an the cab is in great shape with just one cab corner needing touched up & the floors are solid.
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thats the easy way I am in the city with houses next door an the driveway is on a down hill grade & driveshaft & steering is not hooked up. I only need it like less than 50ft from were it is at an get it inside the building just move it down an to the right bout 50ft an inside the building.
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Easy way..
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...e/IMAG0417.jpg I do it with a cherry picker and a steel bar I welded up to hold the cab with the door area. http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...e/IMAG0419.jpg |
helipirate...got a pic of that steel bar you welded up?
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Originally Posted by deerhunter5555
(Post 10428749)
helipirate...got a pic of that steel bar you welded up?
The Spider Pulling Machine | Compact and Portable Only difference is mine is not adjustable, I just made it the length of the cab. I made mine out of 2" square tube for the beam and 1 1/2" flat bar for the part that connects to the hoist that I welded to the beam. Drilled holes in the flat bar for the bolt that holds it to the hoist. Use a piece of angle iron on each end to keep the cab from slipping off and your done. They sell it for $160 plus shipping. Anyone with a welder could make it for 5-10 bucks I am sure. Here is another link to a DIY adjustable one, I hate to link a Chevy Forum on here but here ya go. cab lift adapter for engine hoist - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network |
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Originally Posted by 77FordDW
(Post 10430127)
I understand the bolts to the seat holes, but the rachet... I can't seem to think where you would hook that up to... the door supports? Smart idea by the way. It'll let you tilt the cab, won't it? |
I believe the ratchet strap is routed all the way around the outer front portion of the cab. Down by the lower corners? Right?
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71
(Post 10430639)
Smart idea by the way. It'll let you tilt the cab, won't it?
Originally Posted by 77&79F250
(Post 10430657)
I believe the ratchet strap is routed all the way around the outer front portion of the cab. Down by the lower corners? Right?
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