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-   -   junkyard motor, what should i pay? (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1055316-junkyard-motor-what-should-i-pay.html)

patman247 04-01-2011 11:56 PM

junkyard motor, what should i pay?
 
im going to build a new 300 L6 for my 91, im going to start with a used motor from a junkyard, what have you guys payed in the past and what can i expect to pay?

L. Ward 04-02-2011 08:16 AM

Depends on location and how complete, but usually $200-300 MAX for a buildable core. At the local P&P, a complete motor runs around $150 for a gasser, running or not.

StumpPullerF1 04-02-2011 05:52 PM

Man, thats cheap. I was at the local yard a few weeks ago and asked just for the heck of it and he said $500 without a tranny.

Restoman2 04-02-2011 07:10 PM

It depends. Run tested and pulled, start at 500. If you pull it yourself they start at 150, but you don't know if it runs.

Eddiec1564 04-02-2011 07:39 PM

Just today went to the junkyard, they wanted $308 for compleat engine. Did not find a worthy engine this time around. I am also getting a 300 I6 to rebuild and rid the 302 out of my F250 for better pulling.

jk89cat 04-02-2011 08:50 PM

just beware of the cash for clunker trucks, those engines are done!

75Three90 04-02-2011 09:10 PM

i pay 400-500 for a complete drop in motor ready to run for a rebuildable core i pay 100

Kapusta 04-02-2011 09:19 PM

I paid $400 for my 302 and I put about another $150 for a new timing gear set and oil pump + misc gaskets.

joshofalltrades 04-03-2011 12:27 AM

I once bought a 300 from a private seller for $300, its always a gamble if you haven't heard it run, mine always had a pretty heavy rattle, which I never properly diagnosed until it striped the timing gear, found my lifters were stuck. Turned out to be a pretty good engine, but you never know... if you have to pull it yourself, try to stay under 200, unless you test drive it first, if its already pulled and tested by someone else,3-4 is quite reasonable

patman247 04-04-2011 09:36 AM

I see the words rebuildable core alot, exactly what do u mean by that? What's all included in a "rebuildable core"?

L. Ward 04-04-2011 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patman247 (Post 10178775)
I see the words rebuildable core alot, exactly what do u mean by that? What's all included in a "rebuildable core"?

Rebuildable core means a component (engine, trans, etc) that may or may not be operable in its current condition, but is still within spec to be rebuilt to working condition. It can cover a wide range of conditions depending on the part referred to.

Example:

A bare engine block, that is still within spec to be bored and decked for rebuilding is a rebuildable core.

A complete engine with a good crank, heads and block is also a rebuildable core and would obviously cost more than a bare block.

A complete engine with a spun bearing and a cracked head is NOT a complete rebuildable core, as the head is shot and the crank MAY be shot, in this case the only rebuildable component is the block itself. Cost should be the same as a bare rebuildable block.

If buying a core to rebuild, check and see what kind of warranty is offered on the parts. At the minimum it should be a 10 day replacement on the parts to allow time for disassembly and checking to make sure everything is within tolerance and spec for rebuilding. If the supplier is not willing to give a warranty, walk away and look elsewhere as I have seen blocks, heads, and crankshafts that appeared to look good, but failed to be within spec to be rebuilt.

nstueve 04-04-2011 10:14 AM

Cores need a rebuild and drop in engines run and won't need a rebuild. Here are a few for you to check out in your area. How many miles does Layla have on her now>????? Keep in mind 300 I6 Core engines are dime a dozen in old beater trucks. you should be able to find a old truck with engine or just a core for $200-$500 really easy! I like the first link below the best unless you want a parts truck... You can use that rebuilt block and turn it into a long block with rotating assembly with head. You'll probably need a seals and gasket kit for $100 and a few things from your engine but it would be the cheapest way to get a zero mile I6 into Layla!

Already rebuilt and needs assembly (good deal!):
300 Ford 6

Rebuildable core:
300 Ford Industrial Engine
ford 300cidw/4spd&transfercase
1985 Ford F-150 4x4
1990 ford f150 parting out
1988 ford bronco ($100?????)
Drop in replacement engine.
1995 F150 4.9L 300 inline six motors
92' E150 van $650.00 OBO parting or all

Keep in mind if you find one that is running and sounds good. Chances are you're not going to have problems rebuilding it and using it as a core. That's why I'll buy a parts truck for $500 or less if i can drive it away or hear it run. You know the engine is good at that point and the rest of the truck can be hauled to the metal recyclers to recoop some $$$$!

ptboi94 04-04-2011 12:17 PM

Take some fuel injector cleaner that you hook into the fuel line and a jump box and start the engine in the junkyard. That solves the problem of not hearing it run.

patman247 04-04-2011 02:26 PM

Thanks for all these tips guys!!!!! Now I have another question im planning on rebuilding an I6 and putting it in my truck, is this doable on a budget of about 8 or 900 bucks?

nstueve 04-04-2011 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patman247 (Post 10179741)
Thanks for all these tips guys!!!!! Now I have another question im planning on rebuilding an I6 and putting it in my truck, is this doable on a budget of about 8 or 900 bucks?

no... not really. it might be possible but not probable. The machine shop is going to cost you at least $300-$500 to clean, magnaflux, crack check, line hone, install new freeze plugs, install new cam berings, turn and polish crank journals if needed, connect rods and pistions, check and resize pistons and caps to fit crank... Oh and did you need head work? Decking the block or head, new valve guides and seals, valve jobs, optional P&P work... Did you say a stock or aftermarkey grind on the cam... If aftermarket your going to need screw in studs so the don't pop loose. You'll also need new valve springs to match your cam. Some of this may not pertain to a EFI motor since I haven't been inside a EFI block before...

However, you can blow $1500 easily getting your block, machine work, and new parts. I've probably dropped the better part of $2000 on my 351w. Machining $307.61 (no head work), Comp cam and lifters $200ish, oil pump $30, rebuild kit $373.95, timing set $35, plugs-rotor-cap-wires $60, water pump, piston machineing and pressing $120ish.... and this is all without any head work!!!!! That's why I suggested the I6 that already had machining done and new parts in... $425 is stupid cheap for all the machine work and parts if he has them all. Plus he said the head work is done! head work alone can cost $300 pretty easy if you just droped a head off for rebuild and picked it back up. That block may not be EFI though so there may be some differences... I'm not really sure what they would be but there could be a couple...


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