rough start till warm and hick up
 

I have a 1996 7.3. I have done a crap load of work on her now and she is finally starting to run the way she should. When I got her, she was in bad shape. The fellow who had her previously did not take care of her and when I got her had oil and coolant mixed. So I did this to try and get her in top shape:

• 2 new batteries
• new head gaskets
• 4 new injectors (left side)
• new o rings on all injectors
• 4 new push rods (replaced b/c they had slight damage on head where rocker arm is)
• new turbo (pedestal and turbo housing cracked - leaking severely)
• new HPOP and IPR
• new wire harness, UVC harness and GPR
• new glow plugs (motocraft)
• new valve cover gasket
• new CPS
• new heater element in fuel bowl
• new alternator
• new water pump
• new starter
• new belt, belt tensioner and idler pulley
• new fuel filter
• new air filter

Here's my problem now. Still hard crank when cold. When cold she runs rough and then when I get her up to temp, usually going down the interstate, she frees up. It sort of feels like there is something stuck and then all of a sudden it frees up and just kicks. After that, she runs great and is easy to start the rest of the day. On the hard start, white smoke spews out. I know I have plenty of juice from the batteries and the gp's are new along with the uvc harness and engine wire harness. I am thinking it may have something to do with the mechanical fuel pump but not sure.

One other thing, every now and then, when on the interstate and I have to gun her to get by some fool, she hickups. It is like it has a split second of nothing there and then hauls a$$. Could this be the injector drive module or the power control module?

No codes are being thrown for either scenario.

Thank guys for all your help. I have read a lot from these forums which have helped to get her where she is right now.

WELCOME TO FTE!!!!
sounds like your ebpv.
You can unplug it and it will fail open.
it is a 2 wire connector on the turbo pedestal on the left (driver side).
I would unplug it and see what you got

Here are some links you should save:
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo Workshop Manual

You can see the connector in the last picture of this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-complete.html (thanks Steve)

on your hard starting problem i see you replaced everything but the gpr (glow plug relay). even with new gps it wont matter if your gpr isnt working. i would either go with a napa part num gpr109 or a stancor, someone with the stancor website or part num should chime in or u could search for it. but the stancor is a monster of a gpr and a lot of guys love it around here. and yea it sounds like ur ebpv is closed until it gets to operating temps, its slugish with it closed and a kick in the pants when it fianlly opens. its there to help get the truck up to operating temps quicker but usually doesnt open when it should. a quick solution until u decide if you want to unplug it, is if the truck is warm but the ebpv is still closed shut the truck off and restart it and it usually opens better than driving down the road a few miles chuggin along. welcome the fte!

Also, when the WTS (Wait To Start) light goes off your GPR is still activated. Your GPR will stay on up to 2 minutes. Make sure you wait almost 2 minutes before cranking. Let us know what happens. Where are you located anyway?

I did replace the GPR. It came with the new top end wire harness.

Down in Rock Hill, SC. Thanks for the info. I have put a crap load of time and money into her and almost there. Then just have to get the interior and exterior looking sharp. Anyways, to the other post, I did replace the GPR. I bought a new top end harness from Ft. Mill Ford (a buddy of mine gave me the employee discount) - $315, and it came with the new GPR.

In regards to cranking, this a.m. it was 40 and I waited 30 sec after WTS light went off. Took about 30 seconds or so of holding the key just winding it before it finally fired. I have replaced almost everything that would control this that I know of.

In regards to the ebpv, there is a post that says once I crank the truck and then turn it off and back on it should run fine. Well that is exactly the case. I have been cranking it, let it sit for a minute or so, and then kill it and restart. Runs fine - otherwise it takes a few minutes to get her to really kick.

Thanks for welcoming me FTE. This place is aight.

I agree, "this place is aight" lol.
All new GP's and GPR?...something is not right. I would test your GPR to ensure it is working.

Thank you for the links, these are great. Your the online manual is what I have been looking for and ALLDATA stinks compared to this. I love your truck, I have something similar but it is an extended cab. Awesome website explaining different abbreviations.

8 new motorcraft gp's and the gpr came with the wire harness from Ft. Mill Ford. I am wondering if my fuel pressure is not where it should be. Thinking about checking it out the schradder valve tonight.

I wish that was my site. Some guy named Steve Baz put that site together. I wish I was that talented. It is a great site.
Here is my truck: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Copedawg's Album: my truck and stuff

Have you verified that the HPOP res is full in the AM ?.

Old oil or low oil can give you headaches starting too.

I have. Just replaced the HPOP last month. She was running rough and then would not start at all. Hooked the computer up to her and she was not getting enough PSI. Replaced the HPOP and IPR valve at same time.

I will check again tomorrow morning, but when I looked this a.m. she was not much more than a couple of centimeters below the opening.