1999 F250 4x4 heater core replacement
 

I'm sure this post has been answered a 100 times, I apologize for not searching and just asking this question again... Does anyone have detailed instructions\a proceedure for this? My son just popped home with my grandson with a leaking heater coil in his 99 F250 4x4 truck. We need to repair it ASAP, as he has to leave to go back home in a couple of day's. Money is tight for him and I want to help. Other than stroking a check to "tha man" to do this, is this a dash removal type job or one an ole X mechanic can perform.:) I usually hang in the 73-79 group. Thank you for any information other than (yea, ya gatta remove the dash) :-X21

heater core
 

Heater Core

****** name=tps_proctitle content="Heater Core">Removal
NOTE: If a heater core leak is suspected, the heater core must be leak-tested before it is removed from the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00.

1. Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.

1. Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03A.

1. Remove the instrument panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-12.

1. Compress the holding tabs and disconnect the heater water hoses (18472) at the heater core (18476).

1. Remove the A/C plenum demister adapter (19E662).
   1. Remove the screw.
   1. Remove the A/C plenum demister adapter.

1. Disconnect the vacuum line.

1. Remove the heater core bracket.
   1. Remove the screws.
   1. Remove the bracket.

1. Remove the plenum chamber top.
   1. Remove the 13 screws.
   1. Remove the plenum chamber top.

1. Remove the blend door assembly from the case.

1. Remove the heater core.

Installation

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
   • Lubricate the coolant hoses with MERPOL® meeting Ford specification ESE-M99B144-B or plain water only, if needed.

dash removal
 

Instrument Panel

****** name=tps_proctitle content="Instrument Panel">Removal

1. If equipped with power seats, move the seat fully rearward.

1. If equipped with a manual transmission, place the transmission into second gear.

1. Remove the passenger air bag. For additional information, refer to Section 501-20B.

1. Remove the driver air bag. For additional information, refer to Section 501-20B.

1. Position the battery junction box aside.
   • Release the mounting tabs.

1. Remove the bulkhead electrical connectors from inside the engine compartment.
   1. Loosen the bolts.
   1. Disconnect the bulkhead electrical connectors.

1. Remove the bulkhead electrical connector insulator.

1. Unclip the bulkhead electrical connectors from the dash panel.

1. Remove the lower instrument panel steering column cover. For additional information, refer to Instrument Panel—Steering Column Cover.

1. If equipped, remove the valance panel.
   • Remove the two pin-type retainers and release the expander clip.

1. Disconnect the restraint control module (RCM) electrical connector.
   1. Release the locking tab.
   1. Disconnect the RCM electrical connector.
   • Release the wiring harness locators.

1. Disconnect the electronic blend door actuator electrical connector.
   • Release the wiring harness locators.

1. Disconnect the climate control head vacuum harness connector.

1. Remove the LH and RH scuff plates.

1. Position the LH and RH door weatherstrip seals aside.

1. Remove the LH and RH A-pillar lower trim panels.

1. Remove the alternative fuel control module (AFCM).
   1. Disconnect the electrical connector.
   1. NOTE: The AFCM is attached with velcro.
      Remove the AFCM from the vehicle by pulling gently down and to the right.

1. Remove the RH assist handle (31406).
   1. Remove the four covers.
   1. Remove the four screws.
   1. Remove the RH assist handle.

1. Remove the LH and RH windshield side garnish mouldings (03598).

1. Disconnect the brake pedal position (BPP) switch electrical connector.
   • Release the wiring harness locators.

1. If equipped, disconnect the clutch pedal position (CPP) switch.

1. Remove the (A) audio unit ground and the (B) GEM/CTM ground bolts.

1. Disconnect the LH instrument panel main wiring harness connectors.
   • Release all the main wiring harness locators.

1. Remove the instrument panel steering column opening cover reinforcement (04502).
   1. Remove the nuts.
   1. Remove the instrument panel steering column opening cover reinforcement.

1. Disconnect the air bag sliding contact electrical connectors and the anti-theft sensor electrical connector.

1. Disconnect the remaining electrical connectors on the steering column.

1. If equipped, disconnect the transmission range indicator from the steering column.
   1. Remove the bolt.
   1. Disconnect the cable.

1. Lower the steering column (3C529).
   1. Remove the nuts.
   1. Lower the steering column.

1. Remove the instrument panel bolts through the steering column opening.

1. Remove the instrument panel reinforcement bolt below the LH corner of the cigar lighter and power point.

1. Disconnect the inertia fuel shutoff switch electrical connector.

1. Remove the RH ground bolts.

1. If equipped, disconnect the load leveling control suspension wiring harness electrical connector.

dash removal#2
 

Dash removal #3
 

WoW good luck
 

Just a few lines after sending you all the stages of the repair (dash removal#1,2, and 3). I do this for a living and the vehicle you are wanting to do is a bit of a challange. for what its worth when doing them i undo the dash enough to pull the dash out on the passenger side enough to crawl under it and remove the heater assembly . its difficult operation, but like a person i know tells me often its just nuts an bolts. another possability is to go on craigs list and look for a Ford tech who is either unemployed or wanting more $$$. good luck

[QUOTE=Dr. Rik;10005594]Just a few lines after sending you all the stages of the repair (dash removal#1,2, and 3).

Thank you for the write up, I just got home from work and read this. I cant seem to open the links and the pictures wont show up. Looks like this was an awsome write up.

Thanks again,
Rich

The message is still there.
 

I was quite surprised, last night it said no more than thirty pictures per message, so thats why i broke it up in the three stages, when i was looking at it all they were there. Its funney that some of the pictures help but mostly it is all about knowing you can,however if you are under a time restraint you might need to look at plan "B" good luck

How do I get a username and password for that site? Haha!

I'd recommend changing the blend door also - while you're under the dash.

I hate to admit this, I took plan "C". GRR.. I'm not proud of this. Mel gave me a local hookup, but by the time my son got there, there wasnt enough time, it would be next week before they could get to it. Thank you for the info anyway Mel! The heater core was already isolated\bypassed from the rest of the coolant system. I ended up flushing the heater core with radiator cleaner, mixing AlumAseal with boiling water and pouring it down the heater core from the engine compartment. I then used a hydro pump that I borrowed from work and applied 14 psi pressure to the core via the rubbber hoses. I repeated this twice. I flushed the core of excess sealer with water afterwards and connected it to the cooling system. It works fine so far, with no leaks. I told him it may last a day, a week, a year, but I guaranteed him, it will eventually leak again. Remember, this is a borrowed truck, or the core would have been replaced. This would have been my first attempt on a 99 and my son has to leave Saturday night. If I broke or needed a part that I couldnt get until Monday, He would have issues at work.

I gave him a screwdriver and a gallon of water;) If it leaks, he can bypass it again.:D

UPDATE
 

[QUOTE=Riderman;.

I gave him a screwdriver and a gallon of water;) If it leaks, he can bypass it again.:D[/QUOTE]

I will NEVER, EVER use this sh#t again. I knew better, and I used it anyway. The only thing guaranteed about this crap is that it will fail when you are in the middle of nowhere. Long story short, the seal failed on my son's trip back home, while in the middle of nowhere. I apologized to him and my DIL, and grandchild. Next time, I'll replace the leaking component, or pay the man to do the same, no exceptions. Sorry for the rant, If I could beat my own ass, I'd do it right now. Thank's Mel for the hookup that I let slip through my fingers. I'm Putting the Jim Beam down now!

Sorry to hear that the "quick fix" didn't work out. In the past I have learned that Barrs Leak is the only nearly safe product to use for something like this. I have used as many as 2 or 3 cans/jars of it in one application and with our trucks the only way is through the main or upper radiator hose to the radiator and not the reservoir. It's also a PIA to do but not as bad as changing the heater core. Then to insure against clogging the system you need to flush the excess out and refill with fresh coolant. I would never recommend this method except in the most dire circumstances. I hope your son and family made it back home with no further problems.
I have a '98 Expedition that I'm selling cheap that needs a 4.6 engine only, the rest of it is in great shape. Why don't you buy that for him? An engine will run under $250 at Pick-N-Pull. A week end of labor and he he could have a great family truck. You have my number.

Does it have a motor that need's rebuilt? Your right, I have your number. Looks like my 76 is on hold for a while.

Thanks
Rich

No engine, it needed one when I bought it. It ran good but had a spun #8 rod bearing I was going to install a near new Mark VIII engine that I had as a spare and then found my Navigator and kind of ran out of steam on the Expedition. It has a great body with good paint, 4X4, 3.73 traction lock rear, Power everything and no sun roof. Also near new tires. Clean Va. title in hand. $1500.00 solid, send me your email address by PM and I'll send pics.