What's the bottom distributor bearing made of?

Brass, LOL. I'll pull the distributor tomorrow, it was just fine when I put it back in about 25 miles ago.

Make sure to check the gear, as if it is going it'll put side-thrust on the bearing and take it out.

Yeah, I'll check the whole thing out, it had pretty much no side to side play in it when I re installed it.

Just thought I would share what I have done to the truck so far for the up comming winter season, and get to know some FTE members. Yesterday I changed the oil with 6 quarts of Napa brand 10w-40, K&N oil filter, new 18" Napa winter wiper blades, replaced the leaking LR wheelcylinder, and today gave the truck a good undercoat of trans.oil and desiel fuel.

Earlier this year I changed the gear oil in the Warn 4 speed, flushed the radiator, rotated the tires. I also replaced the front shocks and the LF upper and lower balljoints. So far the Ford runs great!

Today I pulled the distributor, everything was fine on it. I took another oil sample and this time pulled the drain plug out, looked like a hair ball on the magnet!. Very fine shavings almost like a sludge. I installed a new double roller timing chain 30-40 miles ago, could it be from the new chain wearing in?

Sounds like you have it in good shape. And, I thought I was familiar with the transmissions Ford used but I haven't heard of a Warn. Tell me more.

I wouldn't have thought a timing chain would give off that much stuff, but if it is stuck to the magnet it isn't main, rod, or cam bearings - unless you've worn clear through the bearing material and are into the backing. And, that's highly unlikely. You checked the gear on the dizzy and it is fine, so that would seem to leave the timing chain and the lifters and cam lobes. Did you also install a new cam and/or lifters? What about the oil pump - it is a new high-volume unit?

I wasn't the one who rebuilt the engine, but when I had the intake off I looked a the cam lobes through the oil return holes and they looked like brand new, the lifters don't tick, engine doesn't make any ticking noises at all. Yeah it does have a new high volume oil pump that really pumps the oil. It gains oil pressure from start up very fast too. Tomorrow I'm going to take the fuel pump off and look in the engine through there, and have a look at the timing chain and see if it's all burred up or chewed up. if I like what I see I'll run a few really short oil changes. Might as well just get wally world 15w40 and run a few 20 mile oil changes and if it gets better, then great. When my dad did all the engine work to our van 25 years ago, man did the drain plug have a lot of metal on it for the first few oil changes, after that it quit doing it. So who knows.

I noticed somebody coated their truck with diesel and tranny fluid. I coated my truck with engine oil I thinned out. I figured it would get into the cracks better. Anybody tried this before? Also my heat only works on the highest setting otherwise no air blows . . . any advice on that would be appreciated

I have never heard of anyone doing that, but whatever works lol. What do you mean by no air blows? you mean highest fan blower setting?

The theory on thinning it out was that it would flow better into the spots **** usually rusts. Anyway the fan wont blow until it's on the highest setting. It works perfectly in that setting, but in the others it doesn't blow at all. Even on cold or different settings.

It could be a bad connection, or the switch in the dash is bad. That's all I can think of being an issue.

I drove my truck lookin for an open library with no success.http://www.rxor.info/01.jpghttp://www.rxor.info/22.jpghttp://www.rxor.info/8.jpghttp://www.rxor.info/03.jpg

If it is blowing only on the high setting, usually the fan blower motor resistor assembly is bad...If you have factory A/C it is on the box on the passenger side, under the hood..should have a plug with 4-6 wires on it and a couple of screws holding it to the box...

I don't know for sure where it is on the Non-A/C trucks..

Anyway, when you unplug the plug and remove it, it will have little coil type springs going across the contact legs....They usually burn up and break....Just replace the unit.
They aren't too expensive..and REAL EASY to change...Hope this helps you....Trav.:-wink

About to go put some gas in the truck and run some errands.