Repair stripped spark plug hole -- without pulling head!!
 

I am a mechanic and at work today I got a 2000 5.4ltr that had a plug laying on the top of the head and COP broken and flapping around. Sounded like a vintage steam generator. I have been doing research on this problem since I bought my truck (99 f350 V10) and have heard many success stories about repairing the threads with the head still on the engine. So knowing this is possible I tried it myself.

I phoned up the local West-Can parts store and they had a specific step tap that requires no drilling and can fix the thread. It does say on the package to do this repair with the head off the motor but, I figured I would try it anyway and if it didn't work then pull the head. 20min vs. a 15hr head job. I decided to load the tap with a ton of wheel bearing grease at the tip and between the flutes on the tap and take my time. I got every piece of aluminum shaving and was able to run the steel insert into the threads with no problem and tourqe the plug down to 30ft/pds without worry.

Now for the final test after everything was re-assembled, turn the key and start it up!! Fingers crossed it fired right up and ran perfect, took it for a test drive and stomped on it and no problems. Anybody with a stripped spark plug hole I would say find a GOOD mechanic and get him to do this repair unless you want to spend a lot of money to pull the head. An easy 3000bucks vs. a painless 230bucks. Take your pick.

I hope this helps out everyone with this problem and happy wheeling.

To let you know ,most of us swear by Timesert for the proper fix of this type.
Rich

What is Timesert? I'm guessing this is the same kind of kit I bought to fix the problem? I'll get the part number and brand from work on Monday when I go back to work. I'll post all the info about what I used, who knows it might just be this Timesert kit.

I just looked into the Timesert kit and this was definatly not the kit that I used. The kit that I used was a single stepped tap that uses a slightly bigger tap initially to grab hold and then reams and steps up for the insert sizing. A single procedure and then all you have to do is set the insert and tourqe your plug. I will have to find out what this kit is that I used and let you all know. It only cost me 36bucks for the entire kit. And seriously about 20minutes start to finish for the front driver's side plug. It took me more time to read the instructions than to fix the problem.

The insert did look different than the one in the Timesert kit but, would esentially do the same job once seated.

Ha. As easy as it seems it could go into an emergency tool kit!

Having blown this past summer I have an avid interest in the topic of spark plugs. I thought the torque for the plugs was 14ft/ft.lb Has something been changed this leaves me (newbie) a bit confused

Cheers Willis

The correct tourqe is 30ft/lbs. Ford has issues this in one of their TSB's telling people to re-tourqe them to 30ft/lbs.


The kit that I used on Friday was made by Heli-Coil and came as a pack I got a Tap, Set tool, and 3 different solid inserts. This kit only cost me $32.23+tax and only set me back about 20min repaired and running. It doesn,t look like a temporary fix style kit to me and I will use it again. But, I would recommend possibly putting one in your glove box and hope you never have to use it. Also don't forget to throw in a small package of grease and wipes.


If you want the Heli-coil part number for this kit I can get it and you can get just the inserts so you could use the Tap and set tool again if need be.

Hi bro460 thank's for answering. Yes definitely, I'd like to have the part number for the kit and the insert helicoils. Any info you can post or send me will be much appreciated. After the plug popped I had all the plugs replaced and the dealership who repaired it used a helicoil. Cost for that was $300 and another $200 for the COP. Total bill was $916. Being 1300 miles from home we thought it was a fair price. :)

Thanks Willis

Vanguard motor home, 2000 E350 Super Duty

HeliCoil Sav-A-Thread kit part# 5334-14

HeliCoil Sav-A-Thread insert part# R5326-14L

Note: Make sure you load the tap with grease in the flutes and tip and be sure to clean the threads in the head before inserting the insert.

Hope this helps.

Hi bro460, I'm sure it will help, I'll get onto ordering a set right away. Much appreciated, and thanks also for the tip on the spark plug torque.

One more question, when inserting the thread insert do you use any sealer/ bonding agent, maybe like Loc-tite before breaking off the tang? Do you torque the thread insert into the new threads?

Cheers Willis

There is no tang to break off, if you look at the insert it is a soild insert with locking edges near the top so it won't come out. Use the long insert that is the same as the plug thread depth.

Please take your time and ensure that you use grease on the tap this will catch the shavings from going into the camber. Useing this tap there is no drilling required as well, which makes life a lot easier.

Good luck and let me know how you make out.

Do you need the HeliCoil Sav-A-Thread insert part# R5326-14L
It says the 5334-14 come with it all.
• Sav-A-Thread is the easiest way to permanently repair stripped 14mm spark plug holes.
• Uses to
• Three different insert lengths come with the kit to accomodate all spark plug reaches
• Positive mechanical locking feature means the insert will never come out!
• The piloted reamer tap means no drilling is necessary and perfect alignment of the tapped
• Includes: 14mm tap, insertion tool and (3) inserts

I sure I am missing something, I tend not to read the fine print

Yes there's enough inserts to do 1 hole in three differen't heads. For more than one repair you have to order more inserts. That's the way I understood it from Google searches. Somewhere I read about the number of insert threads matching the number of threads on the plug.

bro460 suggests using the part# R5326-14L (long) that's what I'll use if and when it becomes necessary. I'm going with the statement, "the fix is cheap enough to carry in the glove compartment", so along with a COP unit (not so cheap I guess) and a spark plug as a "just in case" kit. Seems when one is prepared for problems they rarely occur :-D

I've been doing some searching and these kits are double the price in Canada (priced at the suggested list), and the inserts are $11 each. :rolleyes: I'm sure they'll be selling a lot of them.
I'll be ordering mine from the USA where there's more competition and less price fixing.

Cheers Willis

Hi bro460
Ah! guess I'm full of questions tonight. We have the Triton V10 in our rig. It's a year 2000 also, would I still use the part# R5326-14L insert or a different insert for this engine?

Cheers Willis


2000 Vanguard on a 2000 E350 Super Duty Chassis

Being that you have a 2000 with the same 2valve head that I worked on, I think the only difference would be the extra set of valves on the V10. I would think that you would use the same insert I did. All you have to do is measure the thread lenght on the plug and match it with one of the inserts provided in the kit. Once you have used the insert from the kit which comes with one short, one medium, one long insert, I would order the same one to take it's place so you always have a complete kit in the glovie.
The part number of the insert given to you by me is for the one I used. And it is the long one in the kit.

I now feel like I got ripped off paying 32bucks + tax up here in Canada. I still can't believe they were that cheap to begin with, considering a good tap usually costs about that alone if not more.

Using the kit is much better than taking the heads off. I did a repair with a similiar kit at work, but used a kit that cost like $200 I think. Plus charged more than $230 to repair. Did the $230 include a new plug and coil?
The kits are worth it. Less trouble for everyone involved when repairing.

Long coil insert
 

[QUOTE=bro460] Use the long insert that is the same as the plug thread depth.


I would trust the Heli-Coil fix but would not use the coil that was the same length as the spark plug threads , I would match the threads in the cylinder head. It seams obvious that you would not want to thread a coil that has 14 threads into a cylinder head that only has 4 or 5 threads in it. Some very bad things would probably happen when the extra threads of the coil break off and start floating around in the cylinder. IMO

Not really! actually you got a darn good deal from what I'm discovering.
Most of the mail orders from the USA end up at Amazon Com for payment and delivery. Iregardless of what the mail order house claims about world wide delivery, amazon com shuts the order down (cannot ship to that address) and so ends that episode. No matter what shipping from the USA will be 10 to 15 dollars sales tax plus $5 for collecting it at the post office so there's 20 to 25 added to any US price. Some I'm seeing at $30 plus and some at 46 for the same item you bought, so now you can feel good about it again. I figure if I can land a kit here in Canada for around $35 before the Post Office gets involved I'll be doing OK

Cheers Willis

Can you find me the TSB where is says that? I'd be interested in reading it. Thanks again.

Doug

Hi KenJr
here is a link to a description of the helicoil the long one http://hobbistore.com/shop?Operation=ItemLookup&ItemId=B000BOJ79K&myOper ation=Image

It appears to have only about 4 or 5 grouves for threading into the new threads on the head. Please note these are not the normal Heli-coils but are specifically for spark plug thread repair.

Mine was repaired by a Ford dealer in Ont. They used a Heli-coil but what has been approved by Ford is an aluminum Heli-coil
What actually was put in mine, I do not know.

Cheers Willis

For some reason when Ford designed the head they only put three/four threads at the bottom of the plug hole. This left an unused section before the plug seating area. When you run the Heli-coil tap and enlarge the thread before inserting the insert you have just created a full thenght thread to be able to take advantage of. I would recommend useing the thread lenght that is equall to your plug and there will be no way that plug is ever going to back out again.


I'll try and find the TSB

+1 We have heard about this TSB several times but have never seen it or a TSB number to reference.

The only TSB I believe is the one below....

TSB 07-21-2

4.6L 2V, 5.4L 2V, OR 6.8L 2V - SPARK PLUG THREAD REPAIR PROCEDURE -
NOT
COVERED UNDER NEW VEHICLE LIMITED WARRANTY

Publication Date: October 17, 2007

FORD:1997 Thunderbird
1997-2004 Mustang
1997-2008 Crown Victoria
1997-1999 F-250 Light Duty
1997-2004 Expedition
1997-2008 E-Series, F-150
1998-2004 F-53 Motorhome Chassis, F-Super Duty
2001-2005 Excursion
2002-2006 Explorer
LINCOLN:1997-2007 Town Car
1998-1999 Navigator
MERCURY:1997 Cougar
1997-2008 Grand Marquis
2002-2006 Mountaineer

This article supersedes TSB 07-15-2 to update the vehicle model years.

ISSUE:

Some 1997-2008 vehicles equipped with a 4.6L 2V, 5.4L 2V, or 6.8L 2V
engine
and aluminum cylinder heads may experience a spark plug port with
stripped
or missing threads.

ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition for non
warrantable repairs.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Ford Motor Company now authorizes LOCK-N-STITCH aluminum insert and
tool kit
as a proper repair procedure.
Follow the procedure included in the tool kit for using the tools and
inserts. Tool kits and inserts can be ordered from Rotunda by calling
1-800-Rotunda (768-8632). Choose option two (2), part number
302-00001.

NOTE:FORD MOTOR COMPANY HAS DETERMINED THAT REPAIRS MADE WITH THESE
ALUMINUM
INSERTS AND LOCK-N-STITCH TOOLS DO NOT AFFECT THE HEAT TRANSFER
FUNCTION
BETWEEN THE SPARK PLUG AND THE CYLINDER HEAD. [note from Ed W -
http://fulltorque.com/ ]

NOTE:THIS PROCEDURE IS NOT AUTHORIZED AS A FORD WARRANTY REPAIR. FOR
VEHICLES WITHIN WARRANTY, REPLACEMENT OF THE CYLINDER HEAD IS
RECOMMENDED.

NOTE:THIS IS THE ONLY FORD AUTHORIZED PROCEDURE FOR SPARK PLUG THREAD
REPAIRS.

NOTE:THIS PROCEDURE IS AUTHORIZED FOR ESP REPAIRS AND RETAIL REPAIRS.

WARRANTY STATUS:

Information Only - Not Warrantable

At least with the above TSB, the dealer now has an option on non-warrenty repairs other than to replace the head.

TSB 06-15-2.
It's a PDF file and needs acrobat reader. There are some embeded characters that couldn't display I clicked OK on the message box and it worked
I know that I've read 25ft lb for 3 valve engines a couple of days ago and today I came across this one. It says the breaking torque on removing the spark plug will be about 33 ftlb (strange? considering below!)

Anyway this TSB states 25 ftlb

Once the spark plugs have all been removed, new plugs should be installed using a film coating of Motorcraft High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant (XL-2) on the ground electrode shield of the new Spark Plug Do not coat the Electrode Strap or the plug will misfire.
The New Plugs Should be installed with No Lubricant on the threads and Torqued to Specification 25 lb-Ft (34*nm)

As to trusting everything Ford engineers have to say about this, well let's face it, their record speaks for itself.
On another forum there was a letter from Ford posted stating the correct setting is 11 lb-ft as it always was. It also claimed it was mechaincs who were making the mistakes (LOL my manual from Ford states 14 lb-ft)

Actually my thinking is this TSB from the confused at Ford deserves a bit of discussion.

Cheers Willis


Cheers Willis

Maybe I'm missing something but this TSB is for the 5.4L/3 valve engine, not the v10?

Doug

Okay you caught me on the whole 30ft/lbs for plugs. But, in my defense I just asked my journeyman mechanic friend at Ford what the tourqe should be and he told me that the origional tourqe rating was 15ft/pds and they are all tourqing them down to 30ft/pds. In my assumtion at the time I thought that this was a revision of the touqe load and assumed there would be a TSB on this. I apologize to everyone for this assumtion. I have tourqed all my 10 plugs down to this 30ft/pds and have had no problem and I checked them at my next oil change and they were all still 30ft/pds. I will continue to torque them down to 30 because my friend at Ford knows what he is doing and is very good at what he does, which is work on Fords. To me 15ft/pds just doesn't sound right, 30ft/pds does.


I hope this post has helped some of you and take it or leave it with the torque thing.

I will ask my mechanic friend at Ford why or how they got the information about torqing to 30ft/pds. I'll see if he has a TSB report for it as well.

Spark Plug Torque
 

With all the differant ideas on spark plug torque I just called the largest Ford truck dealer in Minnesota to get thier answer. The tech looked it up while I was on the phone and came back with 71 to 106 inch pounds. (for a 2000 6.8). This would be funny if the penalty for doing it wrong were not so costly. He told me there was no TSB on this issue. If someone actually has a TSB(on a 2 valve 5 thread) it would be great to see.

WOW 5.9 to 8.8 Ft.lbs. That's a new one.

Been away from the PC for awhile, getting an 84 skylark ready for an MVI this month, big job.

First an apology, I stated my Ford book states specs at 14ft.lb, actually my Ford book states "nothing about torquing spark plugs" I must have read that here or elsewhere on the net, sorry for the misinformation.

I also have a Haynes manual "Full sized Vans 92 to 2000" as in a previous post they also list the SP torque at 84 to 168 in-lbs. This book doesn't impress me at all, and to me it was a waste of $$ as there is little information of any value in it for my rig with the V10

Not really I guess, matter of opinion but same Hanes manual states the specs for the 4.6L; 5.0L; 5.4L; 5.8L; and 6.8L as all being 84 to 168 in-lbs
An added note here the manual only covers the 2 valve models, so in my reconing if 25 ft-lb is good for one 3 valve engine, why not all?
It's my understanding the 3 valve models have a few more threads for the plugs.

From reading all the specs around the net, I'm begining to suspect that Ford has been shotgunning and so far failed to come up with a decen't setting that can be relied on. Let's see (84 in-lb) ~7 foot lbs, can't be much if any over finger tight.


Cheers Willis

From my 2003-2004 Ford Service DVD it says 11lb.ft or 15Nm in two different areas. Another says 10Nm or 89 lb-in.

i have checked my new 1999 workshop (volume 2) manual that was reprinted in july 2005 and both the 5.4 & 6.8 say 8-12 nm or 71-106 inch lbs torque specs.

on that note one could think that the whole problem started by the spark plugs being over torqued at some point, resulting in the spark plug threads stripping out over time.
also being a bad design from ford.

just a thought.

I'm thinking Ford has made such a mess of this that they have no idea of what to do.

I am going with the guy from "blown out spark plug" site. 30lbs on all 10 plugs. I have torqued them to that twice and no problems.
The threads don't strip out because of over torqueing, they get loose from undertorqueing and then wobble until they destroy the threads and blow out.
14.lbs is very little torque on a spark plug with 5 threads in aluminum heads.
This 30lbs works
Andrew.

blownoutsparkplug.com is the site

Bro460 and Captchas,

The Helicoil website makes this caution" (See statement at the very buttom )

Check out helicoil website too.

http://www.helicoil.in/pdf/HeliCoil...arket%20Kit.pdf
.................................................. ...................

Spark Plug

Heli-Coil is the original spark plug port

thread repair. These kits offer the highest

quality and most durable repair available.

They are the first choice of professional

mechanics and engine rebuilders.

Kits are available in sizes M10, M12,

M14, M18, and 7/8". Each kit contains a

piloted reamer tap (no drilling necessary),

an installation tool, and a quantity

of inserts. The M12 and M14 kits contain

several insert lengths to accommodate

all spark plug reaches. Heli-Coil Spark

Plug Inserts are the preferred method of

repair specified by virtually all U.S. and

foreign vehicle manufacturers.

NOTE:

ports.

.............................
I would like to hear comments comment on this ? Thanks

Ken

i read the blown plug site, there i go over thinking.
it didnt dawn on me that a plug could vibrate loose - then stripping the threads.
this is my 1st time with these motors.

Does the blown plug guy recommend 30ftlbs. on a stock hole or just in his insert?

As far as the Helicoil warning, most Helicoils have a tang at the bottom. There is a tool you use to "spin" the insert into the hole. After you thread the insert in, you break the tang off. Something you don't want to do on a plug repair or a blind hole.

He recommends it with a stock hole. I am still on the fence how I would feel torquing at 30 ft lbs on just a few threads.

Doug