Tire size chart?
 

We seem to be getting a lot of questions here lately about what size tires and wheels fit our trucks.
Anyone interested in doing a bunch of research and making a chart of what fits what? I guess both 4x2 and 4x4. How big of tires will fit with different lift kits etc would be helpful too.
If anyone or a couple people want to work on that we could add it to the FAQs at the top of the forum.
I'd rather not just have a link to another site with the info. If we had our own chart it would be better.
It doesn't pay anything other than recognition and knowing that you've helped :)
That's the same as us moderators get paid ;)

Here's what I've come up with, I hope that this will be helpful.

Super

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97-03 F150 4x4 / 97-01 Expedition 4x4

Lug Size: 12x1.75mm or 14x2mm (depending on year)
Bolt Pattern: 5x135mm


Lift: None

Tire Size: 285/75R16
Wheel size : 16x8 (1)

Lift: 3''

Tire size: 305/70r16 or 17", or 33x12.50
Wheel size 16x8 (1), 17x8 (1), or 16.5x8.25

Lift: 4" *

Tire size: 35x12.50R16.5 or 315/75R16
Wheel size: 16x8 or 16.5x8.25

Lift: 5-6"

Tire size: 35x12.50R16.5 or 315/75R16
Wheel size: 16x10 (2) or 16.5x9.25

Lift: 8-9"

Tire size: 36x14.50
Wheel size: 16x10 (2) or 16.5x9.25

Lift: 10-12"

Tire size: 38-39"
Wheel size: 10-12"

The F150 / Expeditions are prone to vibration problems when using wide wheels or tires.

For daily drivers, use 8" wide wheels and 12.50 width tires maximum.

(1) Wheel must have OEM backspacing.

(2) Bumper may need minor trimming, recommend using 8" or 8.25" wide wheels due to clearance & vibration problems.

*Minor trimming may be required.

Great list superrangerman2002. Are these numbers for suspension lifts only. The reason I ask is I presently have a 3" body lift and I clear my 315/75R16's with just a little frame contact when turning too sharp. I haven't noticed any tire-body contact while off-roading so far.
Just my .02 :)

These numbers are a generalization. They are in terms of total lift, whether it be body, or suspension, or the combo of body and suspension.

I know that there are people that are running larger in some of the cases that i've posted.

But, you need to remember that there are many variables, for example a 3" lift in brand A is generally not the same as a 3" lift in brand B.

Also, true tire sizes across brand names are also different, and also the difference in height between new and used tires.

And there's also the kind of shape your front end is in too, a newer less abused front end will often fit a bigger tire than a front end that has been abused.

If you have 17"s like I do, and are curious as to what you can run, the best thing that you can do is to find out the dimensions of the tires listed above.

For example non lifted 285/75r16 is max for a truck with 16's

Specs for a BFG AT's in the above size (pulled these of BFG's site)

32.9'' tall, reccomended rim size 7.5-9.0'', and has a section width of 11.3'' on a 8'' rim.

Now compare these numbers to a 17'' tire.

Just happens a 285/70R17 comes close...

32.8'' tall, reccomended rim size 7.5-9'', and sect width of 11.5" on a 8'' rim.

By saying a 285/75r16 is the largest non-lifted tire, I'm really saying a tire of 32.9'' tall, reccomended rim size 7.5-9.0'', and has a section width of 11.3'' on a 8'' rim is the size needed. (keep in mind that these are "nominal sizes")

The 285/70r17 will be just a hair bit wider, but very barely noticeable, and stood against a 285/75R16, only difference will be the bead size.

If you have 16'' wheels, the 285/75R16 is very, very close to being a 33'' tire, 32.9'' on average...

If you have 17'' rims, as I do, you could go with the 285/70r17's, they come in at 32.8'' on average.

ok. here is what i have came up with
No lift = up to 29 in. tall (265-65-16)
3.5 in. lift = up to 33 in. tall (285-75-16)
4-5 in. lift = up to 33.5 in tall (295-75-16)
6 in. lift = up to 34 in. tall (305-75-16)
7 in lift = up to 35 in. tall (315-75-16)

any questions about tire and wheel sizes go here:
http://www.procomptires.com/tireconversionchart.htm

Its not really the height that is most important, its really the width that's associated with the height of the tire.

A 285/75R16 (approx 32.9'' tall) will be the max size for any 4x4 F150 frame, with out a lift.

sorry yall, forgot to tell you that was all for 4x2's. but so far what i have seen the 285's fit pretty close to tight on a stock 4x4. i have 285-75-16's on my 4x2 with a 3.5 in. lift and they rub just a little bit when the whell is cranked all the way.

I have a 1998 F150 supercab 4x4 and I put 315/70/17's BFG AT's on it stock. Now they fit but I had to trim about 1" off of that black plastic thing under the front bumper. Also I had a little rub on the frame when I turned the wheel all the way. It looked really good. But I wanted to be taller so I added another 2" block in the rear and cranked the torshion bars 2" and it look's really good. A friend that works at a tire and wheel shop tells me that he has put 315's on quite a few stock 4x4's. I am not sure but all I know is that a 315 looks good on are trucks.

I have run two sets of 33 x 12.5 17's on my '99 F150 4x4, on the stock rims, with no lift, and I haven't had any issues with rubbing at all. In fact, I'm buying my third set of the same tires this month. I'm averaging 45K miles on these mud terrains, so I'm pretty satisfied with them.

305/70/17 buckshot mudders on stock rims with only minor trimming (didn't have to crank it up either)

98 F-150 offroad

I am running Dunlop Mud Rover 285/75/16's on my 01 supercrew
4x4 and they ride great and only hit the fender well when I make sharp turns or backing out of parking spaces. They make that truck look good!

The loss of power depends on how big and wide you go in size. Essentially by putting on taller tires, you are increaseing your final drive ratio, and increasing your rotational inertia (resistance to rolling).

One common way to compensate for pwr loss is to regear your rearend, and this can be realtively cheap to do on a 2wd truck.

The wear thats in the center is mainly due to the high inflation number that you are running, it's causing the middle of the tire to bulge out, and making your wear the center out. The 16x7 rims may have contributed a bit, but its the over all psi, that is the main culprit. The psi numbers on the side of the tire are a max inflation number, and by no means are the reccommended tire inflation. Now for the rear tires with a load on, that's a different story.

Chances are that the cupping is indiaction of needing an align ment. Running your torsion bars cranked up for 300 miles may hve been enough to change the torsions bars, that when you let them back down, they were out of whack and caused the tires to cup....or it just may be the steering alignment...in either case I reccomend an alignment.

30K miles is really nothing to sneeze at for an AT tire (im assuming it is an AT), and considering the high psi's that your running, I have seen alot worse in wear miles.

Here's my reccomendation, If going with new tires, get your alignment cheked right after new rubber, and run your psi's alot closer to the numbers that are on your door. For example on my 6ply's I run 35 front and rear. You'll see a lot longer tread life, more steering control (you'll be using the whole tire instead of just the center), and over all better ride. If you need to tow something, then just bump up the rear tires to the max psi on the tire, then let them back down after your done towing. 35 front and 40 rear, are more than enough psi's for an F-150.

BTW, when and if you get new rubber, make sure to have the tire guys run the rims on a balancer with out a tire, to see if your rims are out of whack.

Hope i wasnt too long winded.

Hope I made some sense.

Specifics...
 

Hey, can anyone be more specific on what kind of lift they have? I know of one person on another board, not exactly the most sane person I ever met but he ran 35" tires on his stock 4x2 with just a 3" body lift. Yes they rubbed like crazy but hey... whatever floats your boat.

I have a Fabtech 3.5" spindle lift with 2.5" blocks in the rear and run 265-75-16 currently and was thinking about going to 285-75-16, what do ya'll think?

Keep in mind the Fabtech spindle lift also kicks out the front wheels for a wider track and eliminates a few rubbing problems as well.

(Edit) For some reason my signiture isn't loading, but my truck is a 1997 F-150 Lariat Ext cab 2wd, has a 4.6, auto, 3.55 open diff., and the towing pkg. It also has 161k miles on it with no known problems and still runs strong.

You should beable to run 285/75R16's with the setup that you are talking about.

I HAVE A 2003 STX 4X4 WITH 3 INCHES AND THE TORTION BARS CRANKED AND THE TRUCK RIDES AWESOME WITH 36 12.50 16 SUPER SWAMPER TSL ON IT SO U CAN FIT A 36 WITH 3INCHES OF LIFT IN IT AND I HAVE NEVER HAD THE TIRES RUB AT ALL

carissathompson, yes you have to put at least 3.5 inches of lift for a 4x2.

fordtrucktexas- i ahve the 3.5 in fabtech performance on mine with the 2.5" blocks on mine, with the 285's check out my gallery i think they look pretty good together.

depends on if you want to do suspension or body. suspension can improve the ride alot and can cost anywhere from $600 - $1500, the body lift is cheap but a pain to install. check out http://www.4wheelparts.com and look at their kits, also just search the intenet for cheap prices, i bought my lift from summit for a little over $1000, installed it myself in about 6 hours.

:-X22 http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
go to this site for tire size conversions and apperances it will also give you an idea of metric to standard conversion chart as wel as size dierances from tire to tire :-X22

03 4x2 F-150 Supercrew
 

Ok I have read all the stuff in this trend and I am still not really sure what I can do with my truck to add some height. I want to add some new tires and a lift but is this going to mess with my factory warranty?

If I don't lift my truck the biggest tires I can go with are 29in tall 265/65/16 is that correct? And if I add about a 3.5" lift I can add 33in tall 285/75/16? What are the 2.5" blocks for? Also the price that was listed on here by someone said this was close $600.00 - $1,500.00 I assume this doesn't include tires correct?

By the way anyone in San Diego, Ca. Know of a good place to go to get this done beside PG I hear they are really pricey. What I would like to do first is put larger tires on my truck without having to change out the stock rims or lift it. So I guess I can only go with the 29in tall 265/65/16's does anyone make good meaty looking tires for this size.

nope that doesn't include tires. the 2 1/2 in. blocks lift the back end. and yes the biggest you can go without a lift are the 265's. you can find a spindle lift for around $600, or you can do the control arms which are about $1000. a body lift will run you about $100-150 not installed. not sure about the factory warranty, but it probably will void it.

nvm, I looked up some pics. Going to go with some 265/75/16s. I'm just a college kid with very little money, and the BFGoodrich Land Terrains Wally World sells w/ 50,000 warranty look decent and only cost $96 each, $10 per tire to mount, plus free tire rotation/balance every 6k and free replacement for first %25 of tread life in case of blowout or something. Can't beat that.

Welcome to the Forum!

I'm not 100% sure, but I think that putting any kind of a lift on voids the warranty on the affected driveline componets.

BFG /AT/KO 28570R17 on stock 03' FX4 150 sCab. No issues w/ clearance at all.

Wanted bigger (wider), but didn't even think about going to the type tires that are labled by Height x Width. Don't even know what you call these?

Could larger tires in this classification work without a lift?

Thanks...

On the stock rims, that is about the widest I'd go....any wider of a tire, complications start to arise because the rim is too narrow for the tire.

The Height X width Rim sizes are called Flotation Tire sizes..... for many many years in the US this sizing was standard because of our standard measurement system of inches and feet. The LT285/70R17 is called Lt-metric sizing, but strangely uses inches for the rim size, but uses the metric system for the other calculations...not real sure why that is.

I just put on 285 75/16 Bridgestone Revo AT's on my 1999 F150 4X4 and it rubbed a little on the driver's side plastic bumper piece while turning the wheel to the right. I trimmed it a little and it works fine now.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=42830&.jpg

What kind of tires are these if you don't mind?

Thanks,

Gerald

305/70/16
 

Will 305/70/16 Goodyear MT/R's fit without a lift ? And will they work with the optional aluminum rims (16x8) ?

Assuming you have a 4x4 F-150...

IMO, they will barely fit on the 16x8 rims but will not fit on the truck with out a 3'' lift...the Gy 305/70/16's MTRs are 33" tall, and the big knobs will prolly rip a fender up with out a lift.

This info was on the first page of this thread.

I wouldn't chance it.

According to my chart on the first page of this thread, you'll need to go with a 4'' lift to fit the 315/75r16 tires...and even then you may need to trim a bit. I would think about a narrower rim (8''-10'' will work for this size), I would stick with a 8'' - 9'' rim due to all the vibration problems I've seen with the wider rims on a F-150....but 10'' rims will work.

Hey to all,
I have a link that may or may not help but anyway here she goes: www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
This link will help you with tire height and speedo calculations.
Ex: if you are running 265/70/17 and want to up-size enter 265/70/17 on the left hand side and enter the size you would like to go to on the right hand side. It will tell you: the old height, the new height, and the speedo difference!
Pretty neat huh?
ok well have fun.

lariatrider rides on........

I currently have stock rims but I plan on purchasing MAXX 6 wheels by Helo size 16x10.

Look up 10 posts. My truck has 285/75r16 tiresin the pic. I installed a 2" body lift since then though.

Hello,

Seems that it's a concencus that 33 inch is about as high as you can go. That still leaves about 6 inches of open space (between the tire and the fender) in the front and 8 in the back. I hear everyone talking about raising it even more which sounds like the exact opposite of what we are trying to achieve. Shouldn't we be lowering these trucks? That would look better, I think. Although that is a personal oppinion. Where would it rub anyway?

Thanks everyone.

Maybe 6" of space from top to bottom with 33's but less that 1" of clearance in front and less than that when the wheel is turned. That is why a lift is needed. Many people responding to this thread have 4X4's and get larger tires for better traction. Why would you want to lower a 4X4?

What are the benefits or disadvantages for using a larger tire. I have a 2000 4x2, and was looking to put on 265-75R16 mainly for aesthetics, because they are essentially the same price as the stock size.

So far, this thread has told me that the speedo will read the wrong speed (from the Miata link), and there is a decrease in the towing capacity. Any other drawbacks? Any other reasons to increase in size, even though it isn't that big a jump in size?

It will get a bit more bouncy...
You could also get 275-70R16. They are about the same height but they are a bit fatter.