Wheel help needed
 

Hi Guys,
Need some help in making sure I order the correct size rims this time after my last fiasco:-X19.
Looking at 16x8,16x9 or 16x10 to run 35's or 315's rubber. I am installing a lift kit but I am confused with the backspacing offset issue. the question is will a 4.5" backspacing let me run these tyres without any rubbing on the springs?(present problem with said tyres on stock rim, illegal I know)
From what I understand with a 8" rim I will need a 0 offset, a 9" needs -12 offset and with the 10" I will need a -25 offset. If I go more on the negative offset it will only push the wheels out wider? I am running 2" pocket flares so I can run a little wide.
Anyone having any issues with their wheel set up or not and wouldn't mind letting me know their detailed sizing? I am going to order out of the states so I can get it wrong twice:-X19

Cheers, Glenn

I'm runnin 20x9" rims with a -12 offset. The inspection station here said this was the maximum that would pass as regs here limit track increase to a max of 1" above stock.

With 305/55 20 tyres on full lock the front tyres will just rub on the mudflap mounted on the inside of the guard, so with my 4" lifted truck I could not go any wider on tyres or have a more neg offset rims without having more lift.

Simon, Thanks for that. We have the same laws in WA. so if I read it right 305's on a 9" rim with a -12 offset clear the springs. I am going to assume if I use 16x9 with a -12 then 305's will fit? just need to find out if 315's or 35's will still clear the springs.

cheers

What year do you have?

Ozdat it is an Australian 2004 4x4 crew cab, 7.3 auto. It is the same platform as the US 99-03 F-250.

18's or 20's would give you less bag on the side wall. On my obs I have 285/75/16's or 33" which I should get away with when I go to license it. 18's would be a nice size for road and off road compromise, and would be the way I would go if I can afford to upgrade to 35's.

Ozdat I want to stay with the 16's to make it easier to get spare tyres when touring, plus I like a bit of sidewall, seems to help when airing down for the soft sand.

Off the top of my head, the stock wheels are 7" wide, with +6mm offset.

To stop rubbing, it doesn't matter the rim width, just the offset (I think you might be getting your offset/backspacing confused?). To clear 315''s/12.5's, 0mm offset will do enough. (although if you run very low pressures, -6mm might be needed, just in case). 305's will easily clear with 0mm offset.

If you want to allow for 325's/13.5 in the future, you will need -12mm offset.

Based on that offset, you can look at this chart, to get your backspacing based on the wheel width you want:
https://www.rsracing.com/images/tech-wheeloffset.gif
All the landcruisers etc. run 16's - so much easier to find tires (and if you buy tires locally... cheaper)

Not to mention, wider footprint when aired down in our soft sand, less likely to "curb" your rims etc. The only benefit of running larger wheels is for looks/clear bigger rotors. That said, I run 18's... (275/70 R18's)

My truck is a 2005 CC 7.3 auto 4WD with 4" lift. The rims American Racer Wolverine 20x9 with 4.5" backspace & -12 offset. The 305/55/20s (tyre height 32") do not touch the springs.

I'm thinking of going to 16x8 4.5" BS, zero offset, to give lots of rim & tyre options. The widest popular tyre seems to be 285/75/16 - tyre height of 32.8" seems reasonably close to what I'm running now.

Ok, the wheels are their way to USAtoAUS. I ended up getting these Moto's from eBay. 16x9 with a 4.5 back space and -12 offset. Can't wait till they get here!! Got a good deal 6 wheels shipped with centre caps and lug nuts US$720. I have been assured that they will work?? And the centres have the pop off cap for accessing the hub lock.
Are our wheel studs 1.5 or 2.0 thread? they are sending me 2.0 for free, I guess if they are wrong it aint much to get the right ones.
16 17 18 20" inch Moto Metal MO 951 MO951 Wheels Rims | eBay

Thanks for all the input!!!!!!

Including shipping? Wow that's a good price. Goes to show how much markup there is on stuff in West Aus.

:-arrgh

OzDat that is only shipping to Battle Ground Washington state USA. the freight forwarder will send them to West Aus by sea freight. From the website 5+wheels shipping is around $200'ish. This is my second shipment of parts thru USAtoAUS and I can't rate them high enough. you just have to wait 6-8 weeks to get your hands on your kit. I have a set of 4" Pro-Comp springs coming too total cost for the 4 is US$560 then my freight on top. I refuse to by anything in Aus unless it is a small item or I need it ASAP! The stealership ain't getting my money!!
And I am waiting to get a box with the Riffraff yellow tape on it too!!!!
X-Mas has come early for my truck

I was pricing tyres a few months back and even with $500 postage it was cheaper to by bridgestones from the U.S.

I had Clay ship my MBRP 4" system to USAtoAUS, then got it delivered to my house via courier.

I will definitely ship my new wheels & tyres over that way. If you plan ahead & use this sort of service you can save $1000's.

My last box with the yellow RR tape was my turbo rebuild kit - via USPS standard service was here in 7 days.

Simon, I am looking at getting the Hydrachip too. anything you have found that I would need to watch?

Simon, I see that you have done the FRx and HPx, did you notice any change with these mods??
or anyone else that has them

Best to start a new Hpx/FRx thread to start a discussion or share observations on this!

14mmx2.0 until the 2003 model year which is when they went to 14mmx1.5


But I think all Aussie trucks were 2.0 (coarse thread)

Buy them on Tirerack (site sponsor - and typically will have the cheapest tyre prices) and have them sent to USAtoAus depo.

Just ordered 6 x 16x8" Dick Cepek Torque alloy wheels from Tire Rack, shipped to USAtoAUS. Tire Rack would not take payment via a foreign Paypal a/c, but they have accepted the Aussie Visacard payment.

Also BTW, I found that Costco stocks BFG T/A Load E tyres 265/75 16 or 285/75 16 for $250 a corner.

Anymore ever converted a trailer to run 8x170 stud pattern?

Is that Costco in Oz, or Costco in the states?
Easiest/Cheapest way would be to drill your existing hubs (if it will fit an 8x170 pattern).

Your other option will be to have an adapter plate made up. (see attached). Depending on your current trailer axle width, and planned backspacing for the wheels, this may push your trailers wheels out of track with your truck, so you may need to shorten your trailer axle..

Sadly no one makes 8x170 trailer hubs :-X18

Adrian, US Costco is now also in Australia. And they've got the US truck tires (sic - tyres really).

Thanks for the adaptor plate idea. That is a gem. I should be able to get/make a plate to covert Ozzy 5 stud Ford Falcon pattern to 8x170. It's for a 6x4' box trailer. I'll have to extend the leaf shackles and guards, but it will be narrower than the truck.

BTW, I like that black 'horse-shoe' rim that you have in the pic!

Yeah, there is always an hour line-up for the one in Melbourne. Didn't know they were carrying truck tires, but I know their pricing structure is different than the US Costco... can get 1.75l of Jose Cuervo Tequila at Costco in the states for 15 bucks - they need to bring that to Aus too :-X03

Yeah, wasn't my idea with the adapter plate (and they aren't my wheels either :/), I stole it from someone else on here. I just bought 2 blocks of Aluminium and machined it up after hours at work at one of my old jobs, and bought 16 14mmx2.0 wheel studs. Works a charm :-X22
If you have access to a Lathe/Mill it will be cheap job, otherwise there is probably an hour/two of machining involved.

No lathe/mill here. I will have to visit an engineering shop. Do you have a drawing of your adaptor plate that I can have (PDF)?

I'll also have to hunt for the 16 14x2mm studs.

Check your wheel studs on your truck first, they might be 1.5mm pitch.
The US ones changed in 2002, not sure if the Aussie ones did too.

Here was where I bought them from:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/d.../14mm-x-2-0-rh
(you might be able to find them cheaper - but get the studs first before machining, so the shop can make the spacer width and counter bore for the stud head the right size to fit it all)

I don't have a drawing of the spacer as I machined it as I designed it :-D but its very simple.

Overall spacer 20mm thick (or thereabouts)
Centre hole to clear existing hub cap
5 holes for existing studs, Falcons off the top of my head use the 5x4.5in bolt pattern (pretty standard - and the same as my spacers), countersunk on the wheel side and using small "acorn" open ended lug nuts to ensure the spacer is lug centric, and you don't have wheel runout. Here is an example:
8 holes for the new 8x170 mm studs, holes counterbored on the backside to clear the head of the new wheel studs, so its flush.

Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions, unfortunately I no longer have access to a lathe or a mill, otherwise would have offered to make them up for you.

Was looking in the CA chapter, and someone was looking to go from 8x6.5 hubs to 8x170 wheels. This website got suggested. I didn't see any that fit your requirements, but they might make them for you for cheaper than you could get them machined in Aus.
A-DAPT-IT USA Wheel Adapters

These guys look to do one:
billet wheel adapters