Caused Liz to have flashbacks by hooking up the trailer she pulled for many years as a younger truck. Poor thing probably thought she was sentenced to Christmas tree duty again.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f4dc89e948.jpg


-James Huston

I like the red rims. Sort of gives her that rat rod look.

Thanks; it's Rustoleum regal red. Red steelies go with the hand grenade shifter knobs and dog dish hub caps, I think.

-James Huston

Not to mention the two-tone tool box! ;)

Picked up a BWD lifetime warranty headlight switch, the one year warranty one I got to get my dash lights working after I did the LED swap went full defective and wouldnt give me dash lights or parking lights but would turn on the dome light and the headlights.

So will be installing that tomorrow at work since I dont have much to do since I got everything done today. I also need to put that carb for that '59 Ford 641 back together I have it soaking in our carb soak over night.

Converted it to manual choke today, used one of those $13 Dorman kits. Seems to work really good. Cable works smoothly, as well as you don't have to pull it out more than 3/4" to make it go from open to closed.

I finally got around to hooking up the LM-2 AFR meter today. The new engine won't go in until spring, so I wanted to get the old one as tuned up as possible for winter.

I installed the idle solenoid last week, and thought the idle sounded a bit off. Once I got the LM-2 figured out and calibrated, I went ahead and installed the sensor, warmed her up and checked the AFR.

What a shocker! It might explain a few things, but the AFR was 18 or so. WAY lean.
I tweaked it a bit and got it pretty stable from 14.8 to 15.0. I seems to idle smoother, although I didn't get a chance to road test.

In any case, the fuel mix seems to be set correctly now.

Time will tell..

(I also picked up some gauges for my engine test stand. Getting closer..)

I think you may still be lean. I've found that the engines I've checked, inc David's 300 six, idle best around 13 - 14:1. And, unless your air cleaner is heated and working properly, when the air temp falls your AFR will lean out some more.

it's about as much as it will adjust. I may just need to live with how it's set, or re-jet at some point. Air Cleaner is heated and working as it should by the way..

If you can't get it any richer you may have a vacuum leak. But if it runs ok and the air cleaner is heated you should be ok until you can get the new engine in.

Rejetting won't help the idle mix as the idle fuel flow is well below what any jet will pass. But there are idle passage restrictions in many carbs that limit the amount of fuel, and that's probably what is keeping it from getting rich enough. You might find something on it by Googling it, but most of the restrictions can be reached with a drill bit to enlarge. Here's a link to how to do it on a Holley. I don't know what a YFA has, but most carbs do have a restriction.

YFA should have a removable idle jet in the main body right near the cluster. If you have the YFA feedback carb and the feedback system is removed or disabled it will be very lean. Check that the EGR isn't leaking or stuck or being pulled open when it shouldn't be.

Thanks, Bill. I'd rep you if I could.

I got rid of the feedback carburetor and EGR a while back. EGR is blocked and disabled, carburetor is a Tomco YFA (Oreilly Auto).

The idle jet is actually an idle tube, standard size is .027 as I recall. I have a spare from another carburetor; I may replace it just to check

Thank the jerks in the "rep" thread.:-arrgh

I tried to rep Jim Urrata the other day, no go.