I agree. $1500 is pretty expensive to pull replace an engine. As I recall, the basic hour estimate used for that is about 8-9 hours. That comes to about $170 an hour. Ouch!

I'd think 500-800 would be a better estimate.

To machine and rebuild and engine for $700 is WAY cheap.

I'm thinking you might be confused (or he was)

$1500 to tear down, machine and rebuild
$700 to remove and replace

That make much more sense..

The $700 is just to tear down and re assemble the motor. I asked because I thought the $1500 covered all that. So he said no the $1500 was just for his shop which is the R&R only. Then the machinist guy charges $702 to just tear down the old motor and install the parts in the new block that I have machined or pay him additional money to machine himself.

So w/o parts or machine work period it will be $2, 202.00. From here add parts and machine work which would be an additional $1,000.00 probably.

AllData gives 6.1 hrs to replace engine w/o transfer of parts, which works out to almost $250 per hour. Damn, I'm way too cheap at $75 per hour.

700 just to tear down and put back together may be about right then.

R&R is pretty easy. I'd pull it myself but I understand if you don't have time, equipment or space. If you are going to have a shop do it, I'd be looking for another shop..

I am working on that guys house. I still have about $6K left on a $37K contract. I was going to trade him dollar for dollar, but it was sounding to me like he was trying to dip deep into the trade out. So even though he wont like it I am just going to take my pay out and pull the motor myself. James my mechanic buddy said he will help me. I am saying we can pull it on a Saturday and putting it back will take another day.


I may take the block back to STK and ask them what went wrong. Maybe they will work with me on machining. I don't know, I really don't have the funds to jump off in it right now. My little girl just started college and wont be through for a while.

That does seem steep. How many miles do you have on it - 100?

There is close to 2000 miles on it.

I would think you will need new rings but the pistons and bearings should be fine.

When the small blocks flop, time for the big block.

KsCop,


I am so very envious of how good your engine looks! Great job on the engine stand!


I had the same problem when installing A 'Powered By Ford' valve cover. I do not recall what year your engine is, but mine is a 1986. I suspect it has to do with the pedestals? Anyway, mine had interference with the rockers on cylinder #5, I believe. What was actually happening was that the rocker(s) would touch the bottom of the two pieces of metal, which control oil mist, attached to the valve cover, directly under the PCV valve. Since my valve cover was already painted, like yours, the valve cover was placed upside down on a strong table with ample padding underneath to protect the finish. A few strong blows with a ball peen hammer flared the two pieces outward enough to allow clearance.


2+ years later and all is still well! :)

Well, you all put me to shame. I am still feeling my way through the process. I have my 84 back on the road, but with the dirty tank and the additives I have been using I failed inspection with a high HC number. I will run this tank down, change both filters again, and run a tank without additives to see if I can pass. I'm waiting for my new tailgate latch and just power washed the front axle to try to figure out what it is. I took a picture of the rear diff as well so I can try to track that down. I posted the firewall plate info in another thread to see if I could get some help, so we will see. At least it runs well, and can make the trip in and out of the city. I'd like to straighten out the last few mechanical things so I can start on the interior and body work. I have a whole kit of new window and door rubber standing by.

Remind us what engine and fuel system you have as there are some adjustments you can make on some of them to help with emissions. (You really should put that info in your sig so we won't have to ask. And, while some have sig's turned off, it'll help the vast majority of us.)

Thanks. I edited my signature. I'm sorry I hadn't done that. I have a 302 with a carb, the 2500 I think. The engine was replaced before the truck was parked, and it runs very well. I added a second fuel filter in front of the tank and it turns brown when I get down in the tank, so thats when I change it. I haven't been swapping out the main fuel filter every time, but I have one in hand and will swap both later. I'd do them now, but the vent window rubber is kicking my butt.

Thanks. If the "main fuel filter" you are talking about is the screw-in filter to the 2150 carb then don't bother to change it. I've taken several of those apart, including the Motorcraft variety, and the filtering material is a screen that will stop flies but not much else. You are far better off using the pleated clear filters, like you are apparently doing, but even then they won't always stop the crud coming out of a tank. For instance, the junk in the tank of the '82 I bought that had been sitting for 2 1/2 years got past two of those filters and plugged the just-rebuilt 2150's accelerator pump nozzles - to the point I had to stop on the road and take the carb apart as it wouldn't run above an idle.

As for what to do to reduce emissions, how 'bout telling us what your readings were and what the limits are? Someone out there will know what to do to get the offending readings down w/o hurting the others. I hope.

I took the truck to the free state facility and it failed for HC ppm at idle. It read 796 ppm instead of 220. At high idle it passed, reading 51 ppm instead of 220. I think if I take it to a local shop they will probably just collect their fee and pass it.