While that is probably a good rule-of-thumb, there are automatic gear boxes and there are slush-o-matics. Some, like Buick's Dynoflush and Chevy's Terribleglide, are notorious for their losses. And the C6, while having more gears than those two, is IMHO still in that category. Without a lock-up torque converter it is constantly slipping, and that creates lots of heat which translates into lost power.

I know that Dad's truck was getting ~15 MPG with the engine now in Rusty if driven at 62 - 63 MPH. But with the same engine, intake, and exhaust system Rusty is getting more like high 11's to maybe 12 MPG. And the only difference is the swap from ZF5 to a C6. If I hadn't swapped the mechanical clutch linkage for a hydro unit for Dad's truck I'd put the NP435 in Rusty. I don't know for sure but I think the MPG would jump to 14 at 62 - 63 MPH.

I don't know how to translate that into % loss from crankshaft to rear-wheel power. But, I think the C6 loses more than half-again what a manual tranny loses. One indication of that is the tranny cooler that has to be put on them. But there's no need to cool the manuals. And all of the heat is lost power.

All this talk about RWHP and drivetrain loss seems out of place on a truck forum. Import car forum, pretty common subject......
Yes, an auto trans without a lockup convertor will have a bit more loss than a manual trans. Most of that is due to the slippage inside the convertor, which is where the excessive heat comes from. Most manual trans do not need any type of fluid cooler, partly due to the fact that the fluid is not run thru any type of pump to increase the PSI. Pressure also equals heat.
The closest thing to a "pump" in most manual trans designs, is the countershaft that is bathed in the fluid.



Crazy(?) idea, when I get the 6BT/NV4500 swap finished, I could take it to my buddy's shop and put it on the chassis dyno. Would be rather interesting to see what the RWTQ number is........ Engine rating was 160HP/400TQ when new.

That's not a crazy idea. That's a good idea. What does he charge?

No idea what he charges, but I should note that he is in OKC area. The drive adds to the cost.....

This is what I've been up to lately

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...psifk3go8l.jpg

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6lr2wejo.jpg

re-assembling my engine, this is what I started with

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...ps65cd9a0f.jpg

Your typical dirty, leaking engine. I've been taking my time to do it up right, had the oil pan, valve covers and misc brackets sandblasted.
I hope to have it all done in the next week or two.

Not to the truck itself, but I did unload and start working on the Cummins. Pics and more details will be posted soon-ish in my swap thread.

I found the float that belongs to that horrible looking fuel tank sending unit I posted a week or two ago. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8eb6c1d07a.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ea44b6c0fc.jpg


I think I know why it wasn't on the sending unit. After bead blasting that sending unit and assembling it, it is right at factory spec.

So , today James and I dropped the pan on the Dodge to look into the tranny issues I was having. I watched videos and read threads for a few days before we went after it. James was concerned because he hadn't watched and read all the info I did.However, when we got rolling the entire job was a cake walk. Friday I went to OTS and picked up the HD upgraded governor pressure solenoid, a new transducer, filter, drain plug kit and some ATF +4. The fluid was dirty , but there wasn't hardly any sludge at all in the bottom. The magnet had trash on it. The trash was just normal wear though.

We installed the parts, adjusted the intermediate band as well as turned the line pressure up 5-6 PSI. Buttoned it up and went for a test drive. The truck drove out and shifted perfect. It was just due for a little maintenance. I spent a little under $200 for the fix and I am extremely happy with the outcome.:-X03


Also fixed Whitey's AC issues today. Got the warrantied clutch assy and put it on. The AC went to work like it should have and not a hitch in the giddy up. The tires were due to be rotated. I have been noticing the parking brake was going to the floor and not holding like it should. Also it seemed to me like the truck was getting pushed around a lot when I was pulling a scaffold trailer in the rain during stops. James grabbed the brake spoon and we did an inspection on the rear drums. The passenger side was missing one the retainers that looks like a bent over roofing nail with a spring hanging off of it. We found the parts all mangled up in the drum. Luckily we are both pack rat hoarders. He pulled out his bucket O brake parts and of course had brand new hardware for that set of shoes.

The cable had come out of one of the saddles on the drivers side. That got put back in and the drums adjusted. Now Whitey has plenty of tension on the parking brake and the truck stops well.

Feels good to get some stuff done and the trucks back up to par for now.:-X22

Matthew - That's worse than one o mine I threw away today.

Bruno - Good job on all that. Especially the tranny. That's not something I would have attempted. Well done!

I can solder that back up! I crushed that thing in half with two fingers. I also found a big rock in that gas tank. It needs cleaned out, BAD.

Replacing my rectifier and voltage regulator plugs today. I wasn't able to solder them, so I did my best with crimping them. I see someone's replaced the rectifier plug before. I sure hope it wasn't the same person who rebuilt this engine!

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...ea8d8024a9.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...df8e5e84e1.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2e8fc18074.jpg

For whatever reason, my old voltage regulator plug had the yellow and green wires only, the new one has the yellow and green wires, but also has a white and black wire in the middle. To make sure everything still works correctly I used the yellow and black and white wires since they are in the same spot as the old plug's yellow and green wire. I left a little bit of the green wire and put a connector on the end with some heat shrink tubing, melted the heat shrink on the end and crimped it off, in case it ever gets used.

I put on my stickers. Magnaflow, Lunati, and Flowtech. Since they came with the parts, I figured why not.

They'll make your truck 25mph faster! }>

Stickers are for the dents and scratches on your tool box.

They sent me doubles *shrug*. I already stickered the box.

When are you going to ditch that firestarter and go with a 3G?
The white/black is Stator power and should be connected to an electric choke (if you have one)
Otherwise just leave it disconnected.
It should NOT be connected to the yellow/white "sense" wire.