Jim, you would use the recirc vacuum to close it. BTW, MOPAR used a very similar valve (close enough it fits) on their AC systems in the K-cars and their clones (J, E, G bodies and the L body).

Do the 87+ non-A/C controls use vacuum? I'm not that familiar with these, as it's rare to see a non A/C truck around here.......

I'm not sure that at least a micro (8 page) analysis isn't needed. You guys are kicking around good ideas, but there are others. Like the extra, unused vacuum port on the HVAC controls. Or the fuel tank switch that many of us no longer use that is conveniently situated with the other HVAC controls. So, why kill the fun? :-P

Non-air trucks only use vacuum for the fresh/recirc door by the passenger side hood hinge.
There is a cable (piano wire?) for the blend door and another cable for the vents. (defrost/floor/dash)

I just set it for 'outside' air in the summer, but the idea of not having a boiling hot heater core in the cab with you is intriguing.

That's what you would tap into Jim to actuate the valve.

Those valves are under $20 iirc.
The existing vacuum line seems ideally located.
I'm just not sure of adding complexity to a truck this old and tired.
One of the things I like about it is that it is simple and easy to work on

Jim, add one of the older MOPAR cable operated water valves and use a choke cable to be able to operate it from inside the cab.

Any time. I'm going to re do BOTH plugs while I'm in there. I can't get the voltage regulator plug off! so I've decided to just replace both plugs. It comes off 3/4 of the way and doesn't want to come off the rest of the way.

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...P98_3P7YgKDC6A

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...P98_3P7YgKDC6A

Here is a picture of the valve for the Ranger.

Finally have it running from my intake and carb swap!!

Bruno - That's overly complex in my estimation. At least the W's and M's, if not all Ford engines, have a bypass on the cooling system so you can just stop the flow through the heater. So I would use one the valves that just shut off the flow w/o bypassing the heater.

I added a coolant filter on my 96 F250. I cut T's into the heater hoses right in front of the shut off valve I installed. The T's feed the coolant filter. This way the circulation doesn't stop whenever I close the valve, but it does bypass the heater core. The filter doesn't get the same volume of flow when the valve is open. However, it gets all of it 8 months out of the year.

Got a few of the brackets rough painted. Also started work on the DSII/Coil wiring. Found a factory coil connector in the junkyard, so I put the leads from my replacement connector into that one for an original look.

This weekend I'll probably pick up the distributor, fuel pump, timing tab, and a few other small things I still need. I'm hoping to really start rebuilding by mid-late June.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c081bbe67f.jpg

Hey! That looks familiar. But, mine has a W P/S bracket, a 3G alternator, and an A/C compressor. Anyway, as Jim says - progress is good. :-X22

And, no need to remind me tomorrow - I remember. Will send pics via a PM.

!
 

Thanks Gary! Maybe come winter time I'll have her running! I feel like 6 months is definitely do-able. Would be awesome to have her running by December 20th which is the truck's 35th birthday. :)