Well, power -transmission- depends on the friction of tire to 'road' surface.
There is nothing to having the surface of the rollers approximate the mu of asphalt.
Texture or surface material is a matter of cost and longevity.
They could be knurled or covered in rubber, the sensing equipment wouldn't care.
Strapping a vehicle down is just an attempt to reduce that slippage to zero.


If you are driving on black ice it does not change the torque or horsepower the engine is capable of producing.
Traction control algorithms do control braking and engine power in modern vehicles.
They can hinder it, but can never increase it beyond absolutes.

Which is why I said "can get to the ground"

putting a ton in the bed will help traction but hinder acceleration.
It does nothing to torque or horsepower.

Question 1: I think it is done primarily for safety. If you match the straps' downforce to the approximate downforce the vehicle has, then you would probably get better results. I'm a poor Sgt in the Army, so I can't afford dyno runs. That's why I build NA engines.

2: I hate electric right now, because they have very limited range on current electrical storage technology. And I'm not a drag racer. I like dirt, turns, and more variety in my courses. That leads to long races and more varied demands on the driver.

Honestly, I think I don't like electric because I hate wiring. I'll build mechanical stuff all day long, but I have to keep my wiring simple.

I was being facetious...

There's really nothing simpler than a rheostat and an electric motor.
The charging system is a fairly simple (and separate from the motive force of the drivetrain)

In your truck there are two electric motors -if you consider the alternator one- A fuel pump -or two with a switch valve-, whole ignition system, trigger, low and high tension side, distribution, eight spark plugs....
Usually an electric choke and (fuel, temp, oil pressure and charging) gauges with electric sensors.

These are just the ones an electric vehicle would NOT have.
Lighting, climate control, power windows or seats etc, are not mentioned because they are needed/optioned regardless.

I have only three electric motors in my truck: alternator, left window, and right window. Fuel pump is mechanical. Most of the 81 is simple, the Nissan is almost as simple, despite the EFI and ABS.

no wiper arms? a/c blower? wiper fluid pump? starter?

lol just kidding

besides, the problem with electric cars is the batteries that die in 3-4 years. Even the most advanced battery controllers in the world cant stop chemical decay of battery packs.

the number one replaced part in modern cars? Batteries------------

I don't see the battery packs in Prius and Leafs going bad in 3-5 years...
Heck the battery in my truck is ten with no signs of problems.

whao! whats the secret mine die in 5 years or so always :( sometimes i let them get a bit low on fluids but besides short trips i am not sure where i am messing up

I have no idea.
I have a Delco 800CCA group 65 battery from 2005.
I do have a good alternator and no wiring issues that I know of.

If you are boiling your battery dry replace your regulator.
Mine is 14.35v all the time.

I live in Louisiana. The summers are hot from May to September 90 degrees. I know I should just add distilled water more often to my batteries. The last time i checked my battery when the car was running, (on one car) was at 13.9 or about. Maybe that is what is causing mine to fizzle more often? I'll check the voltage after driving around and report back.

I use $100 walmart brand batteries(BIG ones), the replacement warranty is for 3 years but they last 5 years or so before their first non-start.

the heat and humidity in LA is not causing it.
14.35 V is keeping it charged.
13.9 should be okay.
Anything over 14.7 is probably too much.
Check with the rpms up.
1&2g alternators are weak at idle but if they charge too much while driving you will decrease the life of the battery.

I'm done with hijacking Dylans thread.

Terminals are shot in two. It's part of the scheduled maintenance on 'em. It sucks to do too. I hated it when I worked for Toyota. The only advantage while I worked there is that I got employee discount on parts at the FLM dealer because the owner owned both.

Update! Had to wait on the pitman arm puller and rain to stop.

Pressure washed the truck and t case.

I need to rebuild it. It leaks too much:/

How hard are they?
What kit should I get? AutoZone says 230$ and no chain.

Just kidding. Local transmission shop had it for 89$

Gonna do a how-to? I might could use it.