For Jakflash
What you described sounds exactly like what I've had sitting in my garage for months.I'm trying to decide what to do with it. If you did pull off your head,what was the condition of your piston? My plug came out with the Heli coil more or less welded to it. Which cylinder was yours? Mine's fourth one back on passenger side.
Thanks for any input.

Plug thread repair
 

Don't know about your specific case, but Timesert makes a version of their repair kit called "BigSert" - - It is made specifically for dealing with oversized situations involving failed earlier repairs.

It SOUNDS like the helicoil or similar inserts may have a heat transfer problem. Timesert has some additional steps in their system to assure a REALLY tight fit of the insert to the head, to avoid heat transfer issues as well as preventing the possibility that the insert might back out of the head.

. Someone with more experience may have additional information on this. It isn't a new problem as near as I can tell.

Having done all ten cylinders (plug threads) with the regular Timesert system, I come away with the opinion that it is a very successful procedure - - but not one you can do in 15 minutes at a rest stop as some claims indicate.

On my truck, it is the fourth one on the right side also... I've been slowly taking this dude apart, I will have the head off today to inspect the situation. At this point, I'm about $600 bucks into it with buying head kits, head bolts and timing chain kit. I think I got lucky and found a head for $175. A new one goes for $1440. After inspecting the head that I bought, Yes in fact, there is only five threads that hold the plugs in there. The plugs just barely stick in the cylinder... I'm curious to see if I got the plug too deep in there when I helicoiled it. I never heard any noise of it hitting the piston or going haywire at all. It just started missing and made me go back and check it out. I think it may be the heat transfer problem... When it started missin', I drove it home and it would miss some and then smooth out some and miss some and smooth out some and so on. I actually thought I had a defective plug that I bought to get her goin' or one of the others had gone bad.

We'll see when I get off work today. I have to get a bigger harmonic balance puller, mine is actually too small in width to get the three bolts in at the same time. That's the only thing holding me back from removing the head at this point. I couldn't find one on Thanksgiving day.

I'll def post up when I get to see this dude. I miss my truck!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Been drivin' the wife's 4 runner to work and I feel like I'm ridin' a gokart. I love ridin' the ninja, but I can't pull my trailers with it.

Just came from local dealer, placed an order for some parts and got to talking with the parts manager and a service tech on this subject. They said Ford recommends replacing the head, but this dealer has had great success using the Helicoil kit and even suggested to make sure you use the longer Helicoil part in the kit. I asked them about the torque and the service tech said he never puts a torque wrench on them that he tightens till tight. Also said they do not put anti-seize on the new plugs and that it does not need it with the new type of plugs. Service tech looked up torque spec on my 99 V-10 with Alltech and it stated 11ft/lbs. He said "that's not very tight." Take this for what it is worth, maybe we are over analyzing this with heat transfer and correct torque? I am going to PM mine every 20,000 miles and tighten them to 15ft/lbs dry and hope for the best! I will probably keep a Helicoil kit on hand also.:confused:

Well sir I truly wish you all the best, BUT! 14ft/lb with the copper paste results in a much tighter holding force than a plug torqued in dry.
14ft/lb with the paste is equal to about 30ft/lb dry. However it's your engine and your choice.
Cheers
Willey

I finally got a chance to log on.

I did replace the head. While I was there, It got new timing chain and gears too.
When I got the head off there and inspected... I didn't find any evidence of any damage to the piston or cylinder. :-jammin ... I did find a small piece of rubber from the sparkplug insulator. This might have been a problem for the plug.

I think the problem is in fact a heat transfer problem though. After the helicoil is installed,(properly or not) this dude is sooo close to the valves, that I expected to see markings of where the valves may have hit the plug.

There is in fact only five threads that hold the plugs in this particular head. I didn't put a torque wrench on the plugs, I put them in and tightened them like I've done for years on every motor that I've ever changed them on. This is def a chore due to so much happening there and my truck being so tall.

As far as the helicoil... I'd do it again... this is far cheaper than what I just went through. When all done, I'm in it by about a grand, and I'll still have to change the oil again in a couple o days.

I'll take a pic of the head and post it if I can... been fighting this puter lately too.

Thanks JAKFLASH for the update. I would love to see some pictures.:-X0A6

hey willey. please send me an e mail(noreenkb@hotmail.com) i have the same motorhome as yours with the same v 10 engine. would like to ask you some questions. thanks.

V10 van missing, need spark plugs replaced. Near Pontiac Michigan
 

I have a 98 E350 van with a V10. It has 119,000 miles and the original plugs. It is missing at idle and while cruising the miss feels like a vibration. I suspect the plugs are to blaim.
I have been going through bad episodes with my back going out on me. I have to go to a chiropractor to get it snapped back in place.

I need someone to change my spark plugs. Someone who will do it right, blow all material from holes before plugs are removed, remove carbon before installation, torque to proper spec etc and use the correct plugs. I read that SP479 plugs are the ones to get.

I know I will have to pay a few hundred dollars to have this done right. I'm retired and my back simply will not handle the contortions necessary to do the task.

Anyone near Povtiac Michigan that wants to do this job?
Let me know.
I can't always read this forum so please call my cell phone. 248 - 895 - 1444
Call anytime...

Cheers.
Dan

bro460 was there any issue with reach down the long spark plug tube with the short tools included in the helicoil kit you mentioned?

I also see that helicoil has a special MUCH more expensive kit for the frod motors which it refers to as half thread plugs?

Any assistance would be much appreciated - I would rather not spend 250+ on the tools to fix my blown plug.

You alos mentioned using the long insert from the kit - is there any danger of inserting it to far into the cylinder or does it "stop" on it's own somehow?

Danford1-

its too bad you are so far away - i know the back pain & would have been more than happy to help.

SC is way to far - hopefully you got some decent help.

ive been doing my own work on all my fords since the 70's.

there are good mech's out there - but sometimes they are hard to find.

hope you found one to help you.

My 2001 F250 V10 decided to spit out a plug this week. How can I tell if the exhaust and intake valves are closed so that i dont run the tap into them?

The valves are closed on the Compression stroke. I would think that using a compression gauge and watching the needle move would tell you when the piston is coming up and the valves are closed (you would see the needle jump).

Thanks for the quick post rlh68050. Looks like I need to buy a compression gauge. It will have to have a rigid neck thats at least 8 inches long since the hole is at the bottom of a 3/4" dia shaft. Also it needs to be pressed to the hole since the threads are stripped. Also need to get a momentary switch to jump the starter solenoid while I hold the compression gauge to the head

You just have to feel pressure coming out of the spark plug hole and this will tell you that the valves are closed. You could put your finger over the hole if you can reach down that far.