Bummer! Glad I haven't been using brake cleaner to prep for welding, as the most I do is to wire-brush the parts. But, I sure didn't know about that.

Is it the ultra-high heat of the arc that does it? I ask because I do put parts I've cleaned with it in the powder coating oven and that gets to 425 degrees.

Edit: It is the extreme heat of welding plus the argon gas used in TIG or MIG welding that does it, according to the link Chris supplied.

Re-edit: I just read the label on the O'Reilly's "Brake Parts Cleaner" and it doesn't say anything about potential phosgene problems. And, it doesn't contain any chlorinated products. However, it does contain Methanol, Toluene, & Acetone - which explains why it cleans so well. So, it MAY be safe to use as a welding prep, although I don't plan to do that and don't recommend it as I don't know for sure it is the chlorinated stuff that causes the problem.

Thanks to everyone for that info.
I was not aware of that!!
It seems everything or most everthing that I like to do is: Illegal,Immoral,or causes Cancer. Trav. :D

It's not so much the heat, but the UV that causes chlorinated hydrocarbons to decompose.

OSHA Welding Health Hazards



"CHLORINATED HYDROCARBON SOLVENTS

Various chlorinated hydrocarbons are used in degreasing or other cleaning operations. The vapors of these solvents are a concern in welding and cutting because the heat and ultraviolet radiation from the arc will decompose the vapors and form highly toxic and irritating phosgene gas. (See Phosgene.)

PHOSGENE

Phosgene is formed by decomposition of chlorinated hydrocarbon solvents by ultraviolet radiation. It reacts with moisture in the lungs to produce hydrogen chloride, which in turn destroys lung tissue. For this reason, any use of chlorinated solvents should be well away from welding operations or any operation in which ultraviolet radiation or intense heat is generated."


Edit to add the CDC's pdf: http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/MHMI/mmg176.pdf

Jim - Thanks. Fortunately the cleaner I'm using doesn't have chlorinated hydrocarbons, so even though I'm not using it for welding prep there is no danger of phosgene gas if I forget. Further, in the link Chris sent the guy actually saw little puddles of cleaner in pits of the parts, the implication of which suggests that it is the liquid form of the cleaner that is the problem. IOW, if that is correct, there shouldn't be a problem if I decide later to weld a part that I previously cleaned. But, I stress "shouldn't" as I'm not a chemist and do not know for sure that chlorinated hydrocarbons don't leave a residue that is harmful.

Fixed a bad coolant leak on the IDI over the weekend. The cause of said leak was the Hold-down bolt for the Block Heater Element. 5 minutes to locate, grab a flathead, and tighten it back up. Scared me for a minute. I thought the block had cracked.

Found wher e all my brake fluid has been going. Right rear brakes area, I can see it on the back of it. Might be a wheel seal or something. I will let my mechanic handle this one, drum brakes confuse the hell outta me :D

They're really not that bad, once you do them several times, and have a good breakdown picture.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=49061

The wheel cylinder, thats leaking I bet

EDIT: I meant brake cylinder

That's the most common culprit.

What all should I expect to encounter should I decide to perform this repair on my own? Will I need any special tools? Do I need to replace all of the springs? What all is involved so I dont have to make more trips to the parts store? Knowledge is power, right? :-X04

And, on these trucks it is frequently the vent tube that is the problem. The hose rots off and the vent itself gets plugged. With it plugged the oil only has one place to go when the diff heats up - out past the seal and onto the brakes.

First, you have to figure out what the problem is. If it is the vent then you may be good if you clean the shoes and everything else with brake cleaner. If it isn't the vent then the rear axle seal is bad and must be replaced - before you replace the brakes or all you'll do is soak them in lube like the old ones.

Replacing the seal on your F100 may not be a big deal since I believe they have ball bearings and the seal is behind the bearings. IOW, you can remove the axle shaft itself and get to the seal w/o removing the bearings. But, first, figure out what the prob is by checking the vent.

When was the last time everything was replaced? If it's been a long time, I would get a kit and replace most all the hardware. It should include all the springs, hold down hardware, washers, self-adjuster cable, cable guide, and any other parts that might come with it. If the wheel cylinder is the leaky culprit, then I would replace it as well as the brake shoes. As long as you're at it, it would be good measure to do both sides. Personally, I would also have the drums measured and turned as necessary. As far as tools, I prefer using screwdrivers, pliers, vise-grips, and a hammer. And don't forget to clean everything thoroughly, and grease where appropriate. If you really want some help...... you will have to bring it to me. Good luck.

OH OH! Gary has been ASLEEP! Sorry. My bad. You said Brake fluid. Not axle lube. Disregard, like you usually do, everything I said. :-X19

Get a sport cup...Trust me...:'(


I also use the screwdriver/pliers/cursing method...Spring slipped off completely 1 night, and gave me a full on, direct nutshot...:'(:'(:'(