Neither had I. I'll send you an 8-page micro-analysis in three years when I actually get this motor together. :D

The primer is supposed to be able to withstand something like 500*F.

Yep, this just came up recently on the crown vic forums Chris. I think it may be a newer thing, the only store that has it near me is one Oreily.

For years now, I've heard debate about whether a person should/should not use primer under the paint on an engine.
My opinion: The only area an engine exceeds 200F (under normal conditions) is right near the exhaust ports and manifolds/headers. This isn't too high temp for primer. If it was, you couldn't keep paint/primer on the hood, as it is exposed to just as high temps as the rest of the under hood area, and these temps can actually exceed what the majority of the engine block typically sees, since there are exhaust manifolds/headers that supply the majority of this under hood heat.
As such, using primer on an engine is fine. Not really needed, but won't hurt either way.

Heck, special engine paint isn't *really* needed on the engine, for the temps it sees. The engine enamal is just more resistant to fuel/oil/coolant than regular paint. Custom car builders have been using the same paint on engines as they use on the exterior of the car for years, and not just on show cars that never see any highway time.

To clarify, I didn't prime the cast iron parts. I primed the sheet metal parts because they were all down to bare metal. The only primer Autozone had was the high temp primer, and that's why I picked it up.

Won't hurt either way. The stamped tin parts aren't exposed to higher temps than the cast iron pieces, not counting the exhaust manifolds.
Years ago, a buddy rebuilt a SBC for his truck, and used primer on the bare engine before giving it several light coats of orange. Many years later, then engine was rather wore out, and covered with oil/grease and dirt. A quick run to the carwash revealed the still nice looking paint hidden under the grime.

I'm not sure what the P.O. of my 400 used when he painted it gray, but whatever it was, it sucked. There was barely any paint left on the engine, and the original Old Ford Blue was showing through on the oil pan.

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/7125/picture588k.jpg

Pulled the motor
 

Finally pulled the 300 six out of my '82 XLS, it didn't look good, the timing gears are rusted together and it won't budge any!, I used heat and some PB blaster, tried pulling the crank gear but, nope.
So, I took all the brackets and what ever else that's needed.
:(:(:(:(:(

I haven't done anything to my truck recently, but am gradually collecting everything I need to replace all the vacuum lines and relocate my TFI module on a heat sink. The TFI module is held on by two small 5mm hex bolts in a narrow hole, so I got one of these on Ebay for cheap:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=105210

I thought it was a 5.5mm bolt but don't remember for certain, I got a similar wrench from a local parts store.

I drove my truck today.... :)

Still need to get a plate for it.....

You are correct, 5.5mm! My bad.

What makes the Ford socket special? Is it because the bolt is long and a 5.5mm is hard to find in a deep enough socket? Or is the nut a special type?

Also, Galendor, are you gonna wire up a heat-sink fan? :-missingt

Thin-wall socket, regular socket won't fit in the hole.

I took out my seat, pulled up the carpet and added carpet scraps underneath my rubber floor mat to add insulation against sound. Also as a barrier against heat, now that I have my a/c working this should help it out a bit.

No! And no pink parasol for it either. One thing that seems wierd to me is this information below (from Rockauto), it says the Motorcraft TFI module is designed to operate in temperatures up to 125 deg C. That is ~250 deg F. I doubt the module gets up to that high of a temperature even where it is mounted in stock position. So far I have measured about 150 deg F at the module.

<TABLE border=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD class=mfrlogo width="20%">https://www.rockauto.com/logos/motorcraft.jpg</TD><TD></TD><TD align=right></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE class=bdytext border=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=450><FORM name=SlideShow><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width=450 bgColor=#dcdcdc><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=8 width="100%" bg***************><TBODY><TR><TD width=450><TABLE style="WIDTH: 450px; TABLE-LAYOUT: auto"><TBODY><TR><TD>http://www.rockauto.com/Images/en/previousIMG.png</TD><TD align=right>http://www.rockauto.com/Images/en/nextIMG.png</TD></TR><TR align=center><TD colSpan=2>http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/get...36-0&width=450</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></FORM><TABLE class=disclaimer border=0 cellPadding=5 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><TD vAlign=top><TABLE class=bdydesc border=0 cellSpacing=5><TBODY><TR><TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE class=bdytext border=0 cellSpacing=5><TBODY><TR><TD>Motorcraft® Ignition Module Highlights Include:

• Designed to operate under a wide range of temperatures (from -40º to 125ºC)
• Shielded for noise-free radio or CB reception
• Helps ensure no premature firing, misfiring or shutdowns resulting from transient outside signals
• Designed to meet vehicle requirements for conformance to government fuel economy and emission standards.

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