No problem, I appreciate it! More updates after dinner :)

Nice work on that Dave. I also used Jag IFS, but on my 52 GMC pickup building for my wife. I also cut off the front mounts for the IFS and welded solid to the frame, very similar to what you did. I also used the Jag donor car IRS, was an easy fit. I used the Jag booster and master cyl, figured it was all a matched package, and the price was right as it was all included with the $500 donor car. I kept the Jag funky rack U-joint and intermediate shaft, then just needed a simple conversion aftermarket steering U-joint at the top to mate with the GM column.

Do you sense I am building just like you with as much parts on hand and not spending any money unless i have to? Keep up the good work.

Hi, thanks! Sounds like we have similar ideas on doing a build. I also had a complete 1986 XJ6 parts car, I considered taking the booster and master but the mounting system looked difficult to retrofit, maybe I should of looked closer. I still have the jag IRS stuffed in the corner, I considered it but didnt think it would handle the load of a pickup truck full of swap meet parts. Do you have a build thread? Love to see it, build threads inspire me to get to work.

So this is the pedal set I am using, 4th gen F body, same car as the engine and trans came from. I have used these before and they are nice to use because the gas pedal is part of it and it takes care of all the pedals at once. Normally just have to cut the gas pedal mount, angle it as needed, and reweld. That was done with this one as well.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps95035217.jpg

Firewall holes cut for the booster and for the section of firewall I have to bump out for the clutch master cylinder

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pse5dec60a.jpg

Booster mounted

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psbbb37a50.jpg

This is the piece of the pedal mount for the clutch master cylinder, firewall will be rebuilt around it.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7decba8f.jpg

Pedal position is good, depending on the amount of throw I may have to cut and change the angle of the pedals. Won't know that until further along but it easy to change at any time as needed.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psd5a4a76a.jpg

Couple exhaust options, these shortie headers will work but I would have to cut the collector off and angle it more to the rear.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps8377db0d.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps0107fb08.jpg

These may work even better, I think these are v8 S10 headers and will also work with minor mods. Collector would have to be clearanced and the O2 sensor bung has to move.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps45075548.jpg

Now comes all the work to make all these pieces actually work together safely and reliably.

Great Modifications !!!
 

I think the steering wheel Looks really cool and will look great on that Truck, Brake Booster mounted up nicely, I really Like the PEDALS they look comfortable, I'm used to my 58 F250's which are separate but kind of high and somewhat uncomfortable so those will work out Great. I Like both headers but I LIKE the S10 one's better, they look NEAT !!! now I guess whatever works out better is what to go with... Great Modifications and Really Good on the Bank $$$$ Saving Lots of money on doing all this yourself... Very Cool :)

Thanks, already spinning in my head to change some of what I just did, think I am going to recess the booster into the firewall to move the pedals out a few inches. Position is really good but I think I am going to need a bit more travel and pushing them back into the cab will make it happen. Its only metal, cut a hole and then weld it back up, repeat as necessary!
Now just have to wait for another day off to get back to it.
I think the steering wheel will work fine, just need to replace the olds emblem with a ford one, something 1950s-60s. That is one thing I have not made a final decision on, just not sure what style steering wheel to run, I dont like the stock wheel, so this may do once it is painted. Olds are not well known and I doubt many would recognize the wheel as a GM piece.

I used a pedal set from a 92 Camaro. I used a different mount that was already in my truck from the PO, Spaced the clutch and brake so they straddled the column and cut off the gas pedal, reworked the shaft and pivot so it pivoted properly and worked with the Lokar throttle cable. I'm using a SS dual diaphragm booster, the Camaro MC and clutch MC with the T56. You can see my mods and the rest in my "making changes" gallery.

Cool, I have a 3rd gen pedal set but put it aside with the engine and trans from the car, not a whole lot different than 4th gen stuff, but this set worked with almost no mods other than changing the angle on the gas pedal.
Are you running a bench seat or buckets? Looks like I will be making a curved shifter handle to move the shifter forward a bit.
After looking at the pedals again tonight all will be good as is, worst case I may need to make the clutch rod adjustable for a little more length. With the clutch pedal on the floor I am not hitting the clutch safety switch, may or may not mean I have enough throw, been a few years since I sold my last 6 speed F body. I dont think I ever had to put the pedal down that low other than to start it. If needed I will make the clutch rod adjustable to extend it. So no need to recess the booster into the firewall.

F1
 

Yeah, you can definitely find a 50's-60's ford Emblem for your steering wheel online, you just need to look what is gonna look decent and fit. As far as the pedals they looked OK to me, now when I clutch my 58 I don't have to go far down at all. I did put a new clutch in but still only a quarter way down to go through gears comfortably. So if you don't want to go though the Mod... for it, just leave it as is. Now if you want it further into the cab because it is more comfortable for you is a different story, then Do It !!! Not sure of your height.... I'm 6 ft Tall so my pedals are a little bit uncomfortable because they ride high up and individually function, so I have to bend my legs more. I wish I could move them back some but not really worth the time and effort to me. Food for Thought...

I think I have a horn button from a 53 somewhere.

I googled it and that is a cool emblem but may be too big for the steering wheel center. Mine may be 2" max, have to measure it later tonight. Probably need something just small enough to cover the olds emblem. May go with a Ford "V8" emblem.

Finally some time back on the build, continued with the firewall work. Made up a box to bump out the firewall and cover the clutch master cylinder mount.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pscb0cb2de.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psa427b5a7.jpg

And I know what you are thinking, it looks bad! Even if hidden I cant have a lump on the firewall like that. So away it goes and away goes the hole!

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps09dada46.jpg

So looks like I will be recessing the brake booster after all. This will also be a good thing because it will bump up the pedal throw to the factory amount of the 93 T/A the pedals came from. So the ugly box got repurposed and modded to be a booster recess.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psd151dfd0.jpg

Firewall was cut out and the box was tacked in place to check the booster and pedal positions, all looked good.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps420b787c.jpg

Cutout made for the clutch master cylinder

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps793275fd.jpg

Everything bolted up, all looks good, much more of a factory look.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psdff32271.jpg

Pedals look good, throw is good, and now the clutch pedal has enough throw to make the safety switch. Column set in place to check clearance, all good. Next will be the floor patch for the column pass through and the gas pedal mounting. Have to tie the pedals into the dash as well. Gotta love hydraulic clutches, I can push the clutch pedal by hand and release the clutch.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps24e86c33.jpg

More to come!

Hey, at first it looked a little off, but now that You did it It looks like it came out really good, It does look like factory. Hydraulic clutch yes a lot easier on the legs, They are very smooth and easy to push in, You are going to love it. Nice job on the booster looks really good.... Cool :)

Todays update!

Gas pedal mount made. Man look at those lumpy welds! I need a new liner for my welder, if the gun feed tubing isnt perfectly straight I get choppy wire feed. PITA for out of position stuff, makes em ugly but burned in nicely.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psa301619a.jpg

Made bracing for the pedal set, ties to dash and upper firewall. Without it the firewall would flex when the brake pedal is pushed, this took care of that problem.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7fc05fd7.jpg

Next was the floor patch for the steering column, here is my high tech method of making patches! Scrap material and scribed onto sheet metal. The black sheetmetal is from the outer skin of a 67 cadillac hood that WAS for my 67 hearse but got run over (long story :) You want heavy sheetmetal for cheap go cut up an old caddy.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psbff2a674.jpg

Tacked in place, will finish weld when the pedals are back out.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps5f917b34.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps6ebd9eb0.jpg

Thats it for now, hope this is motivating someone to go chop up some steel :D !

Your Definitely motivating me !!!! I wish I had some weldin Skills for my 58 because I would definitely do some bodywork to my metal Tank of a Truck. Pedals came out good and I would not worry too much about your seldom it still looks good.

Welding skills are really not difficult to acquire. You need about 5-800.00 for equipment and a willingness to learn. In my introduction to MIG welding class, I taught 6-10 complete beginners to run satisfactory weld beads in 4 hrs of instruction and hands on practice. A couple more weekends of dedicated practice on their own would make them journeyman welders. A good way to start would be to carefully read my basic welding tutorial here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
Many local trade schools, community colleges, even high schools offer inexpensive continuing ed classes in welding.

Great work. I'm definitely taking some notes and following your thread. I just picked up a 1951 F3.

Hello Sam03....you should start a thread and introduce your truck to the forum (yourself as well). We all like picture here, so post one or two of your project.

Dan

Yes what Dan said. :) Git er done;)

Thanks guys, will be no new updateds for awhile, holidays are around the corner! Hope everyone has a good one!

Thanks for the information and the encouragement, I really appreciate it. :)

Looks Great !!!! See you Later and "HAPPY HOLIDAYS" :) to you and everyone else on this thread... May Happiness fill you and your Families...

Hope all had a nice holiday! With the days off I actually got out in the garage for a few hours here and there to get some stuff done, have to keep pushing forward.

Got the steering done, nice and simple with one joint for once.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps8576e9b1.jpg

Column base mount location done

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psbc67343b.jpg

With the steering done I could decide on exhaust, went with the rear exit shorties which turned out to be for 1988-1995 chevy trucks, they are pace setter PN 70-1318 if anyone is looking for them. I cut the flanges off and made extensions so they would clear and moved the flange to an easier access area. Also added the O2 sensor bung to the passenger side header, the 93 engine only uses one sensor.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psdccc9539.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psaf94b3ad.jpg

Clearance on the steering shaft is about 1/2" but will be fine, engine has a solid mount on the drivers side and is not going to be jumping around.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps9e713912.jpg

Headers had ball socket flanges which I like, I try to avoid using the old style flat flanges with the flat gaskets.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psbcdb8a5f.jpg

Drivers side hooked up, exhaust is a 2 1/2" flowmaster camaro system I picked up cheap at a swap meet.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psf080cb8d.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psb867a3a3.jpg

I plan on tail pipes, going to make them later once the work around the cab is done.

Why are you using a solid mount on the driver's side?

From the order of your posts, are you indicating that you laid in the steering and joint before you chose your headers? That would surprise me and if you did, go and play the lottery right away since you are one very lucky guy!
I never found a header that would fit the sbc/jag at least with the engine centered in the chassis. I ended up using the angled back rams horn manifold. The sbc in a Jag guys are able to fit the straight down dump, larger 2 1/2' Rams Horns. I think that in the Jag chassis, the engine sits back a little further back in relation to the Jag rack. Did you offset the engine to the passenger side? I will say that hard mounting the Jag avoids the need to retain the unique (and bulky) jag joint at the Jag rack. That joint needs more swing room than a standard Borgeson joint.
Making the steering and exhaust all fit and work on the drivers side is the challenge with the Jag, well done!
I would have the same question as Ross above on the engine hard mounting.

Edit: I went back and looked at earlier posts. I would assume that you had tried a fit up of the headers that you are using back before finalizing the steering which would make you good rather than lucky!

Couple reasons. The 1972 and older style chevy mounts are not the best for strength and it is pretty common to break the drivers side mount. In my racing days I would put a chain or cable on the engine from the drivers side head to the frame to limit movement but the solid mount is cleaner. I run rubber mounts on the passengers side and on the transmission, there is no noticable difference vibration wise and the engine cannot rock over and move. Most of my builds lately are non stock with tight clearances and keeping the engine from moving keeps things from getting hit.

LOL sometimes it is better to be lucky than good! :) <p>Engine is centered in the chassis and I set the location based on firewall clearance, radiator clearance, and driveline angle. Steering looked doable with the engine centered. Initially I did not know what exhaust I was going to use, manifolds or headers, and if headers which ones. I have the luxury of being a swap meet scrounger so I have a good selection of stuff on the shelf to try out without buying new. Initially I was going to use the center dump block huggers, cut off the collector and mount at an angle (similar to your rams horns) but decided to use the other headers and keep the exhaust away from the PS lines. The nice thing about headers is they can always be cut up and modded as needed, but I have another set of center dump shorties that fit with no mods at all. I am saving them for the "good" F1 I have waiting in the wings, so the "bad" F1 got these headers. I will get a pic of them this week if anyone wants to see them, very compact.<p>see above for the solid mount reasoning.<p>Thanks for the questions, hopefully the build will help someone elses project. My truck will be nowhere as nice as yours, just a cool swap meet parts chaser.

Better Lucky than Not..... LOL....
 

Hey, Steering came out good so did the face plate in the cab... :) Now the Exhaust are you gonna dump it their in the middle/ground or are you gonna actually take it out to the side ??? I'm assuming you are gonna take it out the side, I think that is what I see in the Picture.....

Exhaust will have full tail pipes straight out the back, I dont want exhaust noise inside the cab, just out the back. I must be getting old, rather have a comfortable ride and be able to have a conversation or listen to the radio. No more side dumps for me.

I agree!

At this point in the build the thought may come to mind "now remind me again, why did I give up on the stock fuel tank"?

Nah, we got room for the pipes to between the tank and the springs for the pipes, will be doing some creative cutting and welding on the camaro tail pipes. Rather have reliability with the in tank fuel pump for the FI, and not hear the gas sloshing around behind me. Only loss will be the lack of a place for the spare tire but I may just mount it in the bed.

I was not able to add text to the above post/picture, however, I would certainly agree that some creative cutting will be required!

I do agree that converting the original tank to FI has its challenges.

Ha!<p>Pictures can be deceptive, another reason never to buy a car sight unseen!<p>Plenty of room for tail pipes back there as you shall see :D

Cool !!!!
 

I Agree, less noise in the cab more noise out the rear.... not sure how old you are but I'm 40 yrs old and I have also gained the same idea, I would rather listen to the radio or have a conversation than hear all that Racket... in my 20's & some of my 30's I would have disagreed with you but not now. It's FUNNY how LIFE WORKS OUT.. HUH !!!! :)

Subscribed

Thanks, hope I can make it worth reading!

It will be a bit before another update, winter has hit with a vengance and it is beyond COOOOOOLD here. I need to drop some plastic to wall off part of the building so maybe I can keep a little heat in an area. <p>Exhaust is now done on both sides other than the tail pipes and I am moving on to some rust repair on the cab if I can keep my feet warm enough.

AAAAHHHHH !!!!!! "FLORIDA"
 

80 degrees with a slight Breeze... Clear Skys with maybe a few Puffy White Clouds.... and 70 degrees at night with a cool breeze while a nice walk in the neighborhood. LOL... :) Hope it Warms up for you.....

Turned down tips reduce the sound a lot. A number of the lots we use for autocross have noise restrictions so they take sound readings. Adding turned down tips is a tried and true way to lower the sound level on a too loud exhaust.

Since I have SS cherry bombs, I exit out the back and did turn downs. I have not run the engine in the chassis, only on the engine dyno. Noise level TBD
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1385920804