Hi Ben, yes the floor was in very good shape. There were just a few small spots to take care of. The fender patching is real time consuming and it would be nice to just buy fiberglass, but I will work on the steels and hope for the best! I may end up with fiberglass up front though. there is a lot of bends and contours. I don't know if I have what it takes to get them right. My goal this year is to get the engine,wiring, and transmission done. That's a big goal but I am shooting for it!

The PO of my '52 F1 filled the seam between the two parts of both front fenders with a lot of bondo. It looked ok and everything was pretty straight, so i painted the front clip and then installed it. Not two weeks later cracks appeared where the seams are. I am going to take them apart, but I am guessing that he covered a lot of rust. Bebop's looks like a good option as I may not be capable of fixing those. I did fix the doors, where I cut out the old rot out and replaced it. I also patched the old gas filler hole and both came out nice. But the fenders might be much harder. I might try because I am in a holding pattern waiting for the $'s to get a new engine and tranny. It never hurts to try. :-drink

Hey Jeff,Nice to see your thread on the main forum.
You do awesome work.:-jammin
Hold your horses on the fg front fenders,My bud bought a 49 f1 for the title but he really wanted a 51-52,,,So I am giving him my 52 f1 shell for some engine work.
I might get those 49 fenders real cheap for you,,,I will PM details as soon as I talk to him.

That's exactly how I am. I get held up by cash, and then i figure "what harm is there in trying"...that's why I bounce around a bit.

Nothing to lose by trying to patch the fenders but time and a little scrap metal.

I have been working on mine for about a month now, made patch panels for all fenders (4 for the driver's rear alone). Never done body work before, but I think they came out well.

Don't have the $$ for fiberglass, and I wanted to try bodywork anyway. I say go for it and you will probably be surprised by the results.

I think you are right, I actually fixed some rust in my doors and they came out much better than I thought I could do. I also fixed 4 stress cracks in my hood with my welder and grinder. Sometimes it is much more rewarding to fix it yourself than to buy new parts. :-drink

Well time to catch up a little more here. This is Summer 2011 stuff.
I had to get the transmission mount figured out. I was going to use the original F3 mount but I didn't like the fit so i bought a CPP mount. I got everything where i wanted it and didn't like how it sat level when the trans mount sat at an angle and was hard to get the rubber mount studs through the holes in the CPP crossmember. So I cut through it almost all the way and tilted it so it fit the tranny mount better. then I welded it back up.

Here you can see what the original F3 crossmember left me. I just didn't like it.

I was using a 351W and switched to a 302, but if you are using a JAG IFS with a 351W this may help you out. My 351W came from a '95 F250. the truck oil pan is a rear sump, but not all the way to the rear. It gives little room for clearance to the Jag rack-n-pinion. I ended up buying a pan that is stock for a 1991 Crown Victoria 351W. It fits MUCH better and didn't cost a fortune. $100 for the new pan and pick-up tube. First pic is the truck pan and the second is the CV pan.

Then the CV pan has the front drain plug. It sits within a 1/4" above the Jag x-member. So I had to cut a hole in the x-member and weld in some pipe to access the plug.

And my clearance with the new pan.

Really great progress there Jeff. Love the rubber glove on the output shaft. If you can convince my 3 girls to come help it would be appreciated. Lots of block sanding they could work on.

:-X04 They keep oil off your hands when you wear them and also oil off the floor when you use them like this! It's been on there since April of 2010.

Jeff congrats on your progress so far. Nice work!!

:-X22:-X22Great job, buddy:-X22:-X22