I replaced the shifter arm bushings last night. Fairly easy job with instant and noticeable results. Although, where the arm is attached at the pivot point is still a little loose, the selection movement is now spot on. I was having issues with reverse, sometimes it would activate the switch and sometimes not. Without a backup camera (yet), its super important to have the sensors working when leaving a busy hockey rink parking lot.

Its really nice having a shop to work in now. I have the ceiling insulated and its shaded by trees most of the day so It stays about 20 degrees cooler than outside. Almost like it has AC. Im still working on insulating the walls but should be done by winter.

Anyway, tank tub switcharoo in a couple of weeks. Then I have to work on the pickup, get it ready for winter.

Drove the Ex yesterday...only to find out that my HVAC blower fan only has 3 low speeds and high. I'll trouble shoot later today but any experience with this anyone has would be helpful. Short of doing a wiggle test or replacing the new resistor, not sure where to go. FYI, I just replaced the resistor and connector. Wires are crimped and soldered with dual wall shrink wrap.

I found out the hard way with my wife's car that the resistor usually doesn't go for no reason. It is the blower motor going bad that causes the resistor failure.

Well, it worked fine, except for low speed, prior to replacing the resistor. The one I removed was rotten. New resistor and wiring, Im going with resistor on this one.

Replaced all the door ajar sensors and door lock actuators except for the rear hatch. I will do that soon. Will be replacing the entire HVAC system too.

Drove mine to work, rolled over 180,000 miles.

Pull the plug to the motor, and check for 12V first at all speeds.

If you had 12 volts at "all speeds", wouldn't all the speeds be the same (high speed in the case of 12 volts). Isn't the purpose of the resistor to lower the voltage so the DC fan motor will spin slower?
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How to test blower motor resistor
 

Finally got the rear brakes done today. I had the rotors resurfaced today and it's all back together. The rotors came off really easily after busting them loose. The job was easy after all that.

Yes, correction, sorry. varying voltage drop to the motor plug based on the resistance level.

New Kicks for the boy today, dropped me 3" too.....
My 12.5 - 33's are aging out @ almost 5 ears old, only have roughly 28,000 miles on them. I've got a 5 hour trip coming up, and another few hour trip later in the year towing the camper. So these will be the understudy for a bit.
I think I'd like to end up with another tire/rim in between the stock size, and the larger ones I have.

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So, I did some testing. I checked the resistor ohms and the resistance is a good range within suggested specs. I tested the switch, rings out properly. When I did the resistor bypass test, I had a fail on the M1 and M2 speeds but low and high work fine. I tried to ground the connector and it didnt work any different. The resistor and switch are good so there seems to be a failure somewhere else. Im going to check my splices but after that, I dont know what to look for other than the motor itself. It works on low and high, the resistor adjusts the voltage so as far as Im concerned, the motor is good.

Refresh my memory, you replaced the resistor, and pigtail plug harness, hence checking your splices? You probably connected each wire to it's proper location? It's been several months since I did mine, I think the replacement OE connector was color for color.