Your call on that one with your truck, I have seen plenty of older trucks with newer beds, some looked good some not so good. IMO the body lines need to look right so the bed does not look stuck on. I would be studying pictures before making the call on which bed to use.
As far as this truck I am going with a stock bed and fenders, nothing special, not sure yet if the inside will have a wood bottom, or steel, or diamond plate, or who knows. This truck is the worse of two I bought, and this one is going to be a daily driver, so I have to keep remembering that and not go overboard on parts or making it too crazy of a build.
There was supposed to be an update today, was going to shorten a driveshaft and take pics, but found one on the shelf that will work. New ujoints are on order and will be putting it in next week. I want to finish all the chassis work before moving on to the body, then the whole thing will get blown apart for paint.

Still waiting on parts, but it seems this truck build is making me think more than I should have to! <p>Best way to build a car is to have a plan and stick with it, and that is how I have always done it, because not having a plan or changing direction leads to wasted money and lots of wasted time. I have bought enough half finished projects to know the results! Anyway I have been going back and forth on the rear suspension location, now I have the shackles flipped upside down again, so a small C notch will be coming. Hopefully I can use the rear shocks I ordered, otherwise let the wasted money start. <p>flipped shackles again, I would rather have the truck low and it should still be able to haul stuff ok. Mocked up a rear fender, doesnt look too low does it? Jag wheels are ugly as hell but I am not bolting up the real wheels until the build is further along.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps35d9c4fb.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psfd68e104.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps333d145a.jpg

Now if I can just finalize the gas tank situation before I spend money I will be ok :D

F1
 

I Agree the Jag wheels look Horrible BUT "NO" it does not look too LOW, actually Looks just Right their where you have it.....

Thanks, I was worried about being too low but I think it looks pretty good. Just to confirm I had to check one of the real wheels at that height.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps194ee249.jpg

I like it, but not any lower, so (dont yell at me) I am going to flip the shackles back over (3" higher), get the bed installed, and then adjust to this height with blocks as needed. New shocks will now fit as expected. I need to weld this stuff in place so I will stop messing with it. C notch may not be needed, there is 3 1/2" travel available with the rear axle at this height, maybe that is enough? Made patterns today to make the notch but I will save them.

Hey
 

Hey, sorry if this question was address somewhere previously in your thread... does your '51 have a Deluxe Cab? (I think that's the term). I had an F-3 that had dual horns installed under the hood and I "Think" that they were part of an upgraded cab design. Thoughts?

THANKS!!

No clue I dont know enough about these trucks to know the difference. Only thing I noticed is the hood had the holes for the extra trim around the spears but the trim is long gone along with most of the truck! :)

F1
 

Your Welcome, the real wheel Looks much better LOL... LOOKS GOOD and yes not any Lower your just right.

Cool. At least you're still excited about something that's "mostly gone" (as you say)! Good luck on your project

I would say it is mostly gone! Who has dash parts for sale (reasonable!) :D
All I have so far is a glove box door, not even with a hinge.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps2e7bd655.jpg

Sent you an email.

Few updates, first off got a good deal on all the dash parts, I have everything coming except for the gauges. Still not sure if I will be modding factory ones or going aftermarket, will decide and then go from there. <p> Trying to finish up the chassis rough work so I can move to the body. Relocated the rearmost running board mount forward, there was actually a factory hole in the perfect spot for one of the holes so it made the job easy. Bolted up and then drilled the other 3 holes.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psb6b78901.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps5ce2073d.jpg

New rear shocks arrived, installed and will work fine at the lower final height. Driveshaft rebuilt with new joints, got lucky and had one on the shelf that was the right length.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pse288e377.jpg

Back to the front suspension, need new shock mounts for the jag suspension. Went with Monroe shocks PN 32022 which are the same design as the original jag shocks but shorter.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps087ba2d9.jpg

Cut some templates

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps9e828620.jpg

First piece, made from 1/8" plate

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps499b92c2.jpg

supports welded on

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psf36070d9.jpg

Stiffening ribs welded on the back

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps14b04584.jpg

welded in place

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps1af86c97.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psde938ae7.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7cb7803f.jpg

Should work fine, just have to weld on the other side and almost done with the chassis.

NICE !!!
 

Wow !!! Those front shock plates you welded together, was Very Nice to see it come together and mounted, Looks like the shock went on Perfectly..... Nice to see new U joints.. I just did mine on my 58 F250 and runs allot quieter now I don't hear my shaft anymore, also replaced the Drive Shaft Bearing and made a world of difference, so NICE JOB on the Rebuild. :) In my Humble opinion I like Original Gauges, people down here in Florida always tell me ""WOW NICE to see ORIGINAL GAUGES". FYI.....

Thanks, they actually look much better in person, flash makes them look like crap in pictures but they are actually pretty decent. Still deciding on gauges.

Cool !!!!
 

Cool !!! Sounds good.... :)

Your plan to hold off on setting the rear height is a good one. As you know, the jag xmember should be level going down the road to allow correct front end geometry. In that you set the jag xmember level with the bare frame level, you will want to bring the frame back to level with the fully assembled truck. You did not indicate if you have any jag large shim-big thin washers-between the bottom of the spring and the lower spring pad. A little adjustment on front end height can be done by adding or removing those shims under the springs. iirc, jag set the centerline of the headlights using those shims to set correct front end ride height.
You are making fantastic progress, keep it up!

Hey Dave,
I'm not super familiar with the Jag front end swap - As part of the swap do you need to make those new shock towers? Or did you do it for some other reason?

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

A number of us have done the Jag IFS. It fits beautifully under particularly the Bonusbuilt chassis. You can either weld it in or soft mount it as Jag did (and I did-see my gallery). Upper mount for the shocks need to be fabricated, either off the Jag K member or off the chassis. Less welding and much cheaper than a quality M2, however you do need to some fabrication.

Thanks, right now I have not taken the front end apart yet so there are probably shims in there now. I need the front end to drop another 2" and so far setting the engine and trans on has barely moved the upper arms off the bump stop. I figure I will have to cut the coils but I want to be careful and not overcut so I want to mock up all the front end to see what it looks like with all the weight on the front.
Anyone know how much drop you get on these XJ6 springs with 1/2 coil coil or a full coil removed? I set the jag crossmember level with the frame level, but I think in the end the rear will be up about an inch higher than the front. I dont think it will be a big deal, used to jack up the cars higher than that in the 80s :)

2nd front mount was installed today

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psfcbe3e37.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psf3d658ec.jpg

Back to work!<p>Got the christmas tree up today and then got some time in the garage. I think I have solved my fuel injection gas tank dilemma, going to be a rear mount tank, details to come.<p>So with a rear mount tank I had to relocate the rearmost frame crossmember and lose the smaller thin crossmember that was in front of it, that was done tonight.

Stock setup

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps720640fb.jpg

My rivet buster! Grind the head off the rivet and give it a whack with my home made punch and mini sledge. If the rivet doesnt move drill a 1/4" hole through it so it can collapse and hit it again, they come out easily. Bolt is from a 1982-2002 camaro or firebird torque arm, I have a lot of F body hardware around and it works great as a punch after a little grinding.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psad95d72e.jpg

Brace was welded on the top of the frame to keep it from twisting and the rivets were knocked out. Crossmember removed.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psf3626848.jpg

Set into the back. Top of the frame stayed in alignment, bottom twisted open about 1/8" so I put a cable winch across the spring hangers to pull it all back together.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pse2fa410c.jpg

Welded in place

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psc8fac2a9.jpg

Gas tank work will be next!

Gas Tank
 

Hi, OK from what I saw you removed one cross member their in the back and you welded that rear one on... So the Gas Tank is going where you removed the cross member Right ???? :)

Started the tank setup today, this is the tank I ended up with. 1995 chevy van, 22 gallon with internal pump for fuel injection. Pump is for TBI so I will swap it out for a factory LT1 pump which puts out more pressure. Side fill so I will not have to worry about a bed mounted filler. Picked this up off craigslist, good deal but even new they are not crazy expensive.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psb5008c1e.jpg

Tried the tank a few different ways, this looks to be the best position, will be mounted from underneath.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps30c30907.jpg

Tank will be hidden from the side by the fenders and the rear slope keeps it from looking too low from the rear.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps2b52c6be.jpg

Frame notched for the filler, I will box it from the back to stiffen it up.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps46432a43.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psa7491f28.jpg

The smaller crossmember will be reused to hold the gas tank straps in the front.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps42b2b28b.jpg

Looks good. Where are you planning to run the filler neck out at?

Gas Tank
 

Got It !!! now I see where you are putting the Gas tank, Looks Good where it's at and it will work out fine their. COOL !!! :)

Thanks!

Filler neck will be coming out on the back of the fender, few ways to do it so still deciding on the final look.
Boxed the inside of the rail to stiffen it up, at first I boxed too much of it and I wouldnt be able to get to the bed mounting bolt. Waste of welding wire :) had to cut it back some, at least I saw it now and not after paint.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psbad0dd6b.jpg

Tanks looks like it is going to work ok.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psb63fcfd2.jpg

Gas Tank
 

Yeah, Looks like it's gonna work fine, wondering myself how you would put the filler neck HHMMM.... Maybe straight out and to the rear so it looks pretty cool, unless you stick it right through the fender, I guess that would work too... :)

Filler will be out the back of the fender.

That Will Work !!!
 

YEP !!! That will work out the back of the fender.... :)

Tank straps done, had some GM 1968-72 A body straps on the shelf, bottom ones are stock top ones are rebent for the van tank.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psa97e10ee.jpg

Crossmember notched and straps mounted

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps4dca5825.jpg

Tabs made from 1/4" plate for the other end of the straps to bolt up.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps6a06629c.jpg

All done with the tank, on to the next project.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psb7b82fad.jpg

Getting down to the last of the chassis rough work, one of the last items I had to do was see what was needed for the front sway bar mounts. I set the sway bar in place and the mounts actually lined up with one of the factory rivets on the front crossmember. Nice since it makes an easy reference to keep things the same on both sides.
Problem is I should of done this BEFORE I boxed the front rails, oops! Didnt occur to me that the sway bar might have to mount in that area.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psc83a4551.jpg

Rivet head ground off and knocked out.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps5b5add6d.jpg

Sway bar bushing mount was used to mark the second hole, then drilled out.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps5f596701.jpg

The sway bar puts a lot of stress on the frame at the mount locations, so IMO it isnt a good idea to just bolt the mounts to the frame rails without some reinforcement. I dont think the F1 rails are thick enough to tap and thread without the threads pulling out so I made some 1 /4" thick plates with nuts to put inside the frame rail.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps16111195.jpg

Had to cut a hole in the boxing plate to get inside the rail then set the plate inside. It was bolted up through the frame rail and then welded in place.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps952255d0.jpg

Boxing plate welded back up, I will clean up the welds later before paint. Both sides done the same way, I am not going to mount the bar until final assembly.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps2be250e1.jpg

Front swaybar done! May be time to move onto bodywork.

Sway Bar....
 

Hi, that looked like a little bit of a "PAIN IN THE A%#..." to do but it appears you finished it off OK... Yeah, you can clean up those welds Later before you paint, next body work will be Fun I'm sure... SEEMS like ALLOT of work but I"M sure it is gonna turn out really nice when you are done. :) GOOD THING you have SKILLS with a welder because it would cost a FORTUNE to get someone else to do that for you PLUS you can make sure it is done right , YOU KNOW ??

Fun maybe, but the body work on this truck is not going to be over the top, this will be a fun driver but certainly no show car, I would of started out with a much nicer truck for that. Everything will be fixed up as best I can but I am no body man! I consider good body men to be artists, I just dont have their eye but I will do the best I can. All low buck as well, home made patches for everything. Will be soon but actually the next items will be the setup of the steering column, pedals, brake booster, clutch master, etc..firewall stuff.
As far as skills thanks I appreciate it, I do what I can but there are guys on here with real master skills, I consider myself a butcher to some of them! :)

OK COOL !!
 

Ok COOL !!! I understand not a show truck just like my 58, Drives good and looks OK, definitely not a show truck but people still think is cool looking when they see it... Yeah it is incredible how body work guys can in vision and do the body work on these Trucks definitely artist... Hopefully the steering column etc... goes smoothly... :)

Ford hood question!
I picked up this hood at a swap meet, looks like any other 51-52 hood to me, but the center does not have the hole to allow the FORD hood emblem to fit in place. The hole on the right is filled with a welded patch but the center looks factory. Can anyone tell me what this hood is from? It also has a few extra trim holes on the sides. Is this a 48-50 hood?

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pse8e147ae.jpg

this shows the missing center hole.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps5d77bc2d.jpg

extra trim holes

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps5a15451e.jpg

That's a 52 hood on which someone welded the left opening. The "extra" holes on the sides are for the emblem. The two small holes in the center are for the emblem denoting the engine.

The 51 hoods had three openings in the front and just an arrow molding on each side. The 52 hoods had two openings with an arrow and an emblem over the arrow.

Also, the front openings are also of different size/shape between 51-52 hoods. My 52 Panel has a 51 hood. One can barely see the extra metal behind the hood molding. Lastly, the 51 hood has the safety catch bracket spot welded to the hood, while in 52, it was bolted.

1951 Hood.

http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...psa675236a.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...s/101_1582.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2470.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2617.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2616.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2615.jpg


1952 Hood.

http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...psv7gjdpib.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...s/101_1580.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2472.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2619.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...s/101_1581.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/...s/101_1583.jpg

OK so if I cut out the center so the emblem will fit then everything else is as normal? I will weld up the extra trim holes on the side. Thanks for the pics, I have to fit the emblem to see if I need to weld up the side holes some as well.

Also looking for a decent lower valence that goes under the grille, starting to get body parts out for bodywork and mine is pretty beat up. Could use a right side fender as well chances of finding one seem slim.

You will have to elongate the side openings in order to fit the front trim, but otherwise, the hood will fit just fine. Yes, welding the two "extra" side holes will solve the problem for the trim. You can use the 51 trim on the 52 hood.

I have a good lower valance. No fenders, except for the right lower.

shoot me a PM with prices for the lower valence and lower rt fender, probably out of my price range but it doesnt hurt to ask.

Started pulling the body parts out today to assess for body work and stuff is rougher than I had hoped.

Got outside today to start messing around with steering and pedal mockup, as usual using what is laying around to keep the build budget in check.

Grabbed a 65 cutlass steering column, actually has a 3/4" shaft so will be easy to make work with the usual 3/4" steering joints. Its for an automatic so I will buzz off the shift lever boss. Left over part from a parts car I used when I built my 1965 olds 442.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psad2b5397.jpg

Like many things on this truck the column drop was missing, had a 1947 cadillac piece on the shelf and mounted it up. It is for a 2 1/2" tube and the column is 2", so wrapped the column with rubber for the mockup. Drop is cool looking so I am going to mod it later to work unless I can find the F1 part.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps9b589c3d.jpg


It actually looks like I can get away with only one joint at the rack, I have the column centered between the original column drop slots in the dash and it looks close enough to work. Just have to shorten the column some more. I thought the steering column would be more to the left but it seems happy where it is.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps0107fb08.jpg

I have several of the stock column drop brackets. I can send you one. Still working on getting pictures of the lower pan for you.