Does anybody know where this second IAT2 sensor is located? And can a bad MAF/IAT1 cause low boost or show on the boost gauge that it has low boost??

IAT2 is here Page 32: Air Management System but I doubt that's a problem...read the explanation above and you'll understand why. Your IAT2 sensor thinks the air it's seeing should be hotter than it is, so it's setting a code. You're getting the EGR codes because of the delete kit. Without custom tuning to turn them off you'll continue to get them.

I'm wondering if that code getting him to go into limp mode. I'm just reaching here though, I wouldn't think limp mode would allow for 25 psi of boost, but it would make sense given the EGR code.

I was wondering if maybe the EGR valve is blowing open a little bit at high boost.

Oooo bad weld job maybe(or incomplete one), but then I would also make sure to recheck the up-pipes.

That's just it...I didn't see where he mentioned that it was welded shut.

the egr valve is in place still, the liberator kit does not come with an egr block off. would a custom tune get my boost back up where it should be?

You need to have it blocked off. EGR in place in of itself isn't a bad thing as mine is still in place, but it's blocked off, welded shut. You need to have those things done and then go with what's below.



Custom tune would eliminate the code that you are having and depending on your strategy flash that could be a big deal as to the affects of having that code on there.

my egr cooler delete eliminates the egr connection from the exhaust to the intake manifold. should i just get a block off plate or something to fill the hole where the egr valve sits?

pretty sure ive hit 30 give or take 1

I hit 35lbs in my 07 6.0

You should leave the EGR valve in the manifold and hooked up to the connector. Get a custom programer to 'electronically' delete/defeat the EGR valve function. That will get you your boost back.

Not having the EGR valve connected, without a programmer, will continue to cause 'low' boost.