You'll need to drill a hole through the inside of the crossmember for the front shackle pins on the rear springs in order to drive them out.

Thanks, I looked and noticed that there was hole to get a clear shot at the front pin, but now I am off with another idea so it wont matter.

With the rear axle off the truck it was obvious there was a lot of play in the spring bushings, and sure enough when I removed the rear pins I could see that the bronze bushing in the rear leaf spring eye was egged out and the pin had wear.<p>
Plans were to keep these springs and do a rear axle flip and C notch, but this would of given me a static drop around 6 to 7 inches which I think may have been too much. A 4" rear drop would get the frame level to the unloaded front and the front should come down another 2" once the engine and the nose are on, but I am thinking I should keep the back up just a bit to allow for hauling stuff. After all it is a truck!

So the combination of the worn bushings and probably too much drop lead me to the plan to swap out the springs and hangers with a modern set that already has the axle on top of the springs. This way I can set the static drop myself and if I need lowering blocks they can be added in the future.
I went to the boneyard today and scored a set of rear leaf springs and hangers from a 2000 dodge dakota 2wd pickup, research showed these would be longer than the originals (better ride) with a higher load rating, but will still fit the chassis with some rearmost running board mount mods. Pics to come!

If anyone needs to research leaf spring info this site is awesome. This is the data for the dakota spring, you can search on just about any make and model.

1999-2004 Dodge Dakota 2wd - Leaf Spring (Rear - 3/1 Leaves) - 34-1477 | $169.95

These are the springs I picked up from the 2000 dakota

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps13452755.jpg

Frame stripped down. I also had to remove the rearmost running board mount to allow for the longer springs to mount up.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps25ec94e6.jpg

Started mocking up one of the springs, but I absoulutely cannot get the shackle bolt out of the rear mount, so I cannot put the rear mount where I want it with the shackle angle I want. Springs are newer so those bolts came out ok but the shackle bolt is siezed. Tried heating it cherry red and beating the snot out of it and it will not move. The Dakota must not have rode too nicely with siezed shackles. So I am sure the other one will be the same way so I will have to cut them apart. Ordered new shackles and bolts from rockauto, not too bad at around $50, but now I cannot continue in the rear until I get them and the axle pads which are also on order.

So I will move on to other areas while waiting for the parts.

Since I am stalled on the rear suspension until parts arrive I figured I better do something, so started mock up for the engine and trans mounts.
This is the engine and trans, 1993 LT1 T56. Came from a wrecked trans am I parted out a few years ago and has been sitting waiting for a home. I know it isnt a Ford but it was in stock and I am on a budget here :D

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7e55fe3c.jpg

Flipped the cab into a cabover :D to get access to the frame.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psff872e25.jpg

Frame was leveled front to back and side to side, then centered and dropped the engine on some wood blocks for height set.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psa77b371f.jpg

Plenty of room for everything, even the A/C compressor. I think the factory compressor can be used with a vintage air system so may give it a try.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psfac40726.jpg

Trans is sitting on the factory crosmember right now. Rather than cut it and then make another trans crossmember I think I am going to just move the factory one back and modify as needed to mount the T56.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps8a8d84b7.jpg

Tons of room over the jag rack

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psf10c157f.jpg

Thats it for now, will proabaly be no updates for a few days. Hope you guys are enjoying me getting dirty!

I like the idea to use the stock trans cross member.

Are those Dakota springs and mounts close to the stock length of the F1?

Absolutely arm chair truck restorations are the only way to go .

Overall no, F1s are 45" long and the dakota is 56", but the important part is the front half of the dakota spring to the locator pin is 24" vs 22.5" for the F1..so the front mount only has to move 1.5" forward of the original mount. The extra length is in the back. The dakota spring should ride much nicer with the extra length and only has 4 leaves vs the original 10 pack.
The amazing thing is the F1 spring is only rated for 1025 pounds and the dakota spring is rated at 1800, so even with a better ride I can haul stuff as needed.

Preparing for engine and trans mount fabrication..cab floor cut to verify firewall clearance and get floor openings set

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psa1881932.jpg

Firewall clearance looks good, right where I want it. EGR piping will be going away to clean up the back of the engine.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7c7fdba4.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psaeafea91.jpg

More to come!

Small update today, planned on getting more done but found another project car on craigslist I had to have, so there goes the day picking it up and all the loose parts. Still more to go back for tomorrow.
So today all I had time for was the engine mounts, made them removable since it was easy to do.

Made patterns of pieces to mount to the factory jaguar pads. I always use a solid mount on the drivers side only, keeps the engine from moving and I have not seen any difference in vibration being transferred to the car. I have a bunch of "plastic cardboard" that I use to make patterns. Tubing in the mount was cut from some scrap tubing I had around.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psba2a1244.jpg

Plates cut from 1/8" steel. Last week I was at a swap meet and a guy was selling a military truck steel tool box, super heavy for $10..grabbed it just to cut up for stuff like this.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps1bbd1a4d.jpg

First piece tacked in

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps61b2bcc5.jpg

Second tacked in

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pse3a2dda8.jpg

Boxed and fully welded. A bit overbuilt but better safe than sorry.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps81d67199.jpg

With the first mount in place the engine was allowed to sit on that mount and I used the hoist to lift the engine to get it level side to side. Tacked in place the 2nd mount pieces, standard rubber mount on the passenger side.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pse1a789f6.jpg

Fully welded and installed

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps974e0b39.jpg

Engine in place. Oil pan bottom is level with the bottom of the frame rail so no worries about scraping anything. I dont like anything hanging below the frame if I can avoid it. Hopefully get the trans mount done tomorrow and then I can get back to the rear suspension.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psb9ec9fdf.jpg

That engine really sits high! Are you bagging it?

No bags on this one, just a nice lowered truck. Engine looks high but in reality the crank centerline is not much different than the original. Just looks high because the jag crossmember is so much lower than the original. LT1 is a very compact engine to fit in the camaro and corvette, any lower and it would look too low when the hood is open. The mock up pictures show the top of the intake will be around the 2nd rib in the firewall, still lower than the flathead.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps23ebd06f.jpg

Made the trans mount this morning.
Removed the factory crossmember, first mod was to open it up for dual exhaust, I want the pipes up in the frame and not below the crossmember.

Before

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps3f906038.jpg

After

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps8c1cb016.jpg

Slid the crossmember back just behind the trans and made a pattern for the mounting tab, transferred to steel and welded on with some support tabs.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps1931a8e0.jpg

Installed, worked great.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psd84bdfc3.jpg

Engine at 3 degrees down with the frame level

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7c88a19c.jpg

Just have to drill the holes in the frame to bolt the crossmember into its new position, should look pretty much like a factory install.

Nice Build. Thanks for sharing.
RE: steering u joint. That Jag unit looks similar to 2003-up CV, GM, Linc. witch in my opinion are junk. I wonder how a 95 to 2002 intermediate shaft would work?

That unusual "Z" steering joint is designed to allow the suspension to move on the elastomeric crossmember mounts without binding or giving bump steer or feedback to the steering wheel to give that famous Jag luxury ride experience.

Ill be interested to see what you come up with for the tranny cover. Always nice to see a different way of doing it.

"Z" joint has been removed, eventually will be a coupler or a ujoint off the rack, will depend on how close the exhaust is to the steering shaft. Right now mockups with the LT1 exhaust manifold look like they will work but I may go with rams horns manifolds or headers. Steering column is probably going to be a 63 caddy unit I have on the shelf with the caddy steering wheel, they just look cool.
Trans cover will be a new tunnel, probably extend close to the length of the cab. With the rear mount shifter plans are to run bucket seats and a console to cover the tunnel.
Dash is also going to be custom, I have a 1956 Ford passenger car dash I plan to shorten and modify to fit.
Rear suspension is next on the list, no time to get back to it until probably Monday.

Ford does have a recall on that type of steering linkage.
Ford recalling 370,000 Crown Vic, Grand Marquis and Town Car models - Autoblog

When you cut the dash in your truck, try to cut it out as one piece. It could be resold to someone who's dash is cut up.

That is the plan, may or may not leave some metal up at the windshield to connect the new dash to but the overall dash will be removed in once piece.

Time is flying and I have too much to do but finally got some time today back on the truck to mess with the rear.
Looked through the parts supply and found a 3:23 posi from a 2nd gen camaro, perfect width at 61" and the perfect gear for the M29 T56. I cut off the mounts and was going to reuse them but decided not to.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps229b3824.jpg

After doing some mock ups and moving things around I think I have the rear where I want it. If you use dakota springs and mounts here is how I mounted them. This worked for me with the jag front welded in, may not be the same if your front end is at a different height but I it is a good starting point, the front mount may work no matter what and then adjust the rear as needed for height adjustment.

Front mount upper front hole was mounted to the upper front hole from the rear most running board mount. The running board mount was removed earlier.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps873ffe83.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps0e0bc4e0.jpg

Rear mount was flipped and bolted up at the rear of the frame at a factory hole. Hole is large and will be welded up smaller for final mounting.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps679755a3.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psaf1b5608.jpg

Here it is mocked up, I have 3" clearance between the axle tube and the frame. Not sure if that is enough or if I need a small C notch, probably need it since I do want the truck to be able to haul stuff. Probably go with air shocks as well for insurance.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps35d9c4fb.jpg

Dakota u bolts and lower plates, axle pads from summit. Pinion angle will be set and the pads welded to the rear later once the bed is on and ride height is set.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps158cd3f8.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pse4dfb65d.jpg

It looks like the rear eye of the rear spring may not clear the bottom of the bed at least with a stock bed. Have you checked it?

Bed floor will be set at whatever height is needed, we arent going stock here with this build :D

Decision time and not sure which way I should go. <p> I bolted up the front spring hangers and started messing with the rears. With the rears flipped the frame is pretty much level, problem is I have no idea how much the bed will weigh or how much the rear suspension is going to come down once the bed is on, gas tank is in, etc. Front suspenion should come down 2" max. Concern is that the rear will come down more than 2" and then the truck will be rear down which I definately dont want.<p>I can put the rear shackles on "normal" which raises the rear 3", so then if the front comes down 2" and the rear comes down 2" I would still be 3" high in the rear, but I could throw on 2" lowering blocks as needed. Not sure which way to go! I may have to leave the rear loose until I get some weight on the truck and see where it sits.<p>Anyone have pics of the side of their truck that has a raked stance and a measurement from the ground to the front of the running board and from the ground to the rear of the running board? Maybe that would help me figure which way to go.

IMHO leaving therear loose at this time is a good idea. not onlt will the ride height change but so will the pinion angle'

IMHO leaving the rear loose at this time is a good idea. not only will the ride height change but so will the pinion angle.

I didn't see in recent posts. Is this getting notched? Doesn't look like there is much travel room left.

No worries on the pinion angle, I am not setting that until the truck is together with full weight, pads will not be welded to the rear until then.<p> C notch is going to depend on where I put the rear spring rear most shackles. With the shackles flipped and the frame level there is 3" clearance to the frame so C notch would be needed. With the shackles installed right side up there is 6" clearance, so maybe 4" after the bed is on? 4" may be enough to not need the frame notch. My concern is having the rear of the truck come down too much and not only look bad but be worthless for hauling, so I think for now I am going to put the rear shackles right side up and the truck will be about 3" higher in the rear than the front. If that ends up looking bad I can use 2" drop blocks and C notch the frame at that time as well. May change my mind again, who knows.

My son and I lifted the bed off of my truck (fenders on, no wood floor yet). I doubt it weighed more than 300 lbs. max.

Not many road shocks will allow more than 4-5" of compression travel before they bottom. You NEVER want the shocks to be the travel limiter, the valving is at the bottom of the rod, and hitting them on the bottom of the housing will destroy them in short order.

Thanks, I dont make my shock mounts until the suspension is loaded at ride height because of that. I have a shock book (gabriel I believe) that lists all part numbers with different ends, heights, travel, etc. I am going to have to throw a few hundred pounds on the rear of the truck to see how much it comes down. I will have a full bed with wood floor and a rear mounted gas tank as well, not sure what that weighs but has to be 300 pounds or so.How much rake do you guys run if any?<p> I just set a running board on the frame and with the rear in the higher position the front of the running board is 8 1/2" from the ground and the rear of the running board is 11" from the ground.

How about some rear helper air bags?? Could be set up with lines and a valve just like air shocks. Then you set the suspension low, and air up to the height you prefer. I want to run bags all around on my 52.

Cool idea, but I want to try and get this to a "set it and forget it" deal. I am going to run with the rear up higher for now and leave the rear spring perches on with only two bolts. If I dont like the way it sits and I cannot get it right with blocks I will take the bed back off and move the rear perches. I am thinking too much about this, need to get the build moving forward again!

Awesome info on installing a jag IFS. Have to add myself to this one for my future IFS install.

Thanks, hoping it will help someone. I have another F1 to do after this one and am going to use the same measurements again. This one is the test bed and all lessons learned will go to the next truck for quick assembly.

Small update, been hard to get time to work on the truck. Decided to leave the rear of the truck up higher and adjust later with blocks as needed, stance is important but I plan on this truck to be a swap meet hauler so I cant have it scraping the ground if a few things get tossed in the bed. Flipped the rear shackes the other way and bolted up with a couple bolts so I can move them if needed in the future.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps48e184b8.jpg

Holes used are the factory holes in the frame. Middle hole actually lines up with the spring bolt so it can be taken apart.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps19b9fbae.jpg

Did some measuring and started looking for rear shocks, based on measurements the stock F1 rear shock turned out to be a good fit. Shocks that came on the truck did not match up so they are too long but I used them for mockup. Correct ones are Monroe #32207, 11.2" compressed and 17.875 extended. Since I may be using lowering blocks in the future I made lower shock mounts that mount to the lower spring plate rather than welded to the axle tube.

Cut off the shock mount from the original F1 spring plates

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psf4fba14a.jpg

Welded the mount to the dakota plate

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps6f64b2f5.jpg

Bolted up, should work fine, new shocks will be put on later.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps00aa824e.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psc1f7eaff.jpg

Shackles
 

Never thought about flipping the rear Shackles ... Interesting idea....

Remember he is using Dakota rear springs (longer with much more arch) and hangers, The Ford OEM front hangers for the rear springs can be flipped and/or moved up to the top of the frame to lower the rear with the stock style springs.

Shackles
 

Cool !!! Did not know they could be flipped to lower the rear with stock springs... I"m Learning something new every time I Log on to FTE... Thanks for the info.

drptop, what bed are u thinking of ???? i've got a stake body and thinking of pulling it. i'd like a newer style bed, step side... any thought ??