A 2wd and diesel one should work just fine. As far as keys I think if you pull the door cylinder it should have the code and they will make the key but by they you could by 4 key and cylinders and call it good.
Trav

Thanks for the help!

It took 3 days of thinking, 2 hours of hammering, 3 different sized hammers, a night of soaking, half a can of pb blaster, a break over bar, a ratchet strap, a lot of scraping dried mud and dirt out with a flathead screwdriver, and a lot of time straining, but I finally got my gooseneck ball to flip up. Bent the tab that pushes the ball up in the process though. Gotta fix that.


http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...906_193836.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...906_193841.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...906_194615.jpg

Good score for that price. You could get your money back by just selling the front axle if it came to that. That dana 60 is highly sought after. I wouldn't bother trying to buff that sun faded paint. You could probably get most of it to a nice shine, but there's no fixing that pealing paint on the bed. I would suggest sanding it down and throwing some primer on there first. Then after you're done getting all the mechanical stuff done, you can come back and paint it.

I need to fix a lot of stuff first.
The front driver side window can't even think about going down, the ac blows hot, the bed is horrible at best, the gooseneck light plug is so far forward my toolbox blocks it off, my ashtray is hacked out, the right side tail light is busted, the front bumper sags, the tires are mismatched, the front left speaker won't put out sound, the hood cable and pull handle are destroyed, and who knows what else may be missing or broken.

Nice truck, keep up the goodwork Tye.

Thanks for the tips and compliments guys!


Got to looking under my truck today. There's a hole in the back of my transfer case. It isn't threaded, its smooth. What is this?

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...909_172152.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...909_172143.jpg

I've also got some knockoff kc lights for my headache rack. Going to mount them pointed in the bed to make it easier to see at night time when I'm hooking up a gooseneck or tying something down. I ran the wires to the headache rack but none to the battery yet. It got dark and I still need to get an in line fuse. Plan on finishing that up tomorrow. Will post pics if anybody's interested.

That hole is where the electric motor would go if you had electronic 4x4. Does the hole go all the way through the case?

For the lights, make sure your wiring is sized properly. It's also a good idea to use a relay...

I'm liking the Red Ruffian, Tye. Thanks for posting.

You should be able to take just the tumblers out of your door locks to a locksmith and get yourself set up with a door key fairly cheaply. Don't forget the tailgate lock, too, if you have one.
I remember the keys and key heads were different for doors & ignitions back then, but I don't know if the actual key blanks themselves were different.
Ideally, you will be able to free the ignition key, take it along with your door tumblers, and have the pins swapped out to get everything on one key.
Calling or paying a visit to your local locksmith may save you some headache and $ as well in getting that ignition free. Last time I had some keys made and tumblers matched on my truck, I noticed the smith had a can of some special cleaner that seemed to work a sight better than WD-40 or any of the standard stuff I'm used to finding on the shelf.

Best of luck buddy, and keep us posted with more great pics on your progress. :-X22

oh - and ps

Some roll-on bed liner might be a good low-buck option for the cargo box.
A friend of mine recently did his trailer with it and is pretty pleased with the results.

looks like somebody hacked up your ashtray area good. Should be a bracket and ash tray that bolts there, it slips on the two dowels at the bottom, and the two bolts that hold it on are under the radio trim bezel, it should still fit in there though.

I've actually been considering the same thing but it looks like somebody else had the same idea for the side walls of the bed. They are grey and very gritty like concrete almost, but there isn't any on the floor of the bed. Kind of weird.

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...910_170121.jpg


Here you can see the difference between the bed side and the floor

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...910_170145.jpg

Let me know if you guys want me to keep updating. Got some stuff done on the truck but haven't seen any replies in a while.

Update it!!

Yes sir!

I put some off road lights on the headache rack. Hopefully they will make it easier to see if I'm hooking up a trailer. They're only zip tied at the moment because I'm still trying to pick an exact location.

I am trying to remove my steering wheel at this time and I haven't been able to. I took off the horn cover, disconnected the wires, and took of the nut. What else do I need to do? I need to tear into my steering column but need to remove the wheel as well for other reasons.

I got some "Turtle Wax" oxidation remover to bring back the red. I believe its called color back. I tried a little bit on the bed rail to make sure I didn't eff up the paint. I followed the instructions and it came out beutiful. It was red again! Gonna do the rest of the truck tomorrow and top it off with some nu finish polish to keep it that way.

I will post pics if I get more interest on here.

Build threads sometimes don't always get a lot of replies. I wouldn't take it as us not being interested, but that we've read the progress or have seen the pics...

Pics are always a good thing!

For the steering wheel, you'll need a puller. You should be able to rent one at your local parts store, or they're actually pretty cheap to buy.