The engine build from what I've seen may be for that, hot cam, raised compression, aftermarket heads with no exhaust cross over, it won't be real streetable in cold weather.

No, I'm not interested in drag racing. And a good idle is a requisite. So, the more I read about that carb the less I like it. But, thanks to David from bringing it up.

Let's go back to the Street Demon. First, here's a shot of the air horn off showing that the jets hang from it into the fuel. And, there are no screws passing through the fuel, so no place for the carb to leak. That's my kind of carb design.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c43f858476.jpg


Now let's talk about "blue printing". Bill mentioned smoothing edges, and here's a shot of the "triple-stack" primary booster from the top showing rough edges that should be smoothed:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...95b0fb8058.jpg


And here's a shot of the bottom edge of the booster showing some roughness:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e917f2a01e.jpg


Further, here's a shot of the throttle blades and the attaching screws, which could be shortened:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...416616ce0c.jpg


But, all in all I'm happy with the carb. In fact, I'm thinking about trying it on Rusty. But I really do need to get a benchmark on him first, both MPG and acceleration.

Grind the screws off and stake them.
I made a bar for the vice (brit speak) and use a chisel to cross them.

I'm sure Bill has a better method.

I haven't checked to see if these are staked. If not they could be pulled, shortened, Loctited, and put back - one at a time. Red or blue?

Blue.
Red is 450*
No need if you cut them short and stake them.

Do they really need to be staked if Loctite is used? But, on the other hand, staking is no problem.

That carb looks a little bit better than that Edelbrock I had and sold LOL

It looks very much like a cross between an AVS and a Thermoquad, with a Q-Jet's primaries. And, since I'm comfortable with those carbs I'm comfortable with this one.

I wouldn't be afraid to try it. After hearing nothing but good about them, from multiple sources. I'd buy it over an AFB any day.

I would trust a mechanical connection over anaerobic sealant.

Though there are fuel resistant varieties, who knows what might be formulated into gasoline in the future?
As is, methanol will eat brass alive.

I might even stake them after Loctite was applied. Just run through your mind what would happen if one of them came out and got sucked in. :-X18


Suppose it doesn't get sucked all the way into the cylinder. It still has to come out. Which way did it go George? Regardless that would require pulling the top end to find and retrieve it. Just saying. :-wink

there's really no point in doing both.
Why not just weld them to the shafts???
I've actually seen them silver soldered, but this was to remove the screw entirely.

And that car was only driven 1/4 mile at a time. :D

I think staking will be adequate. I really don't want to think about the damage a screw would do in the quench area between the piston and head. The block has been zero-decked and the gaskets are the .039" variety. A steel screw between aluminum pistons and head is scary.

We had a little piece of bar stock that had been counterbored so a screw head would just fit in it. Once I cut and dressed the screws, I would set the throttle shaft so the head of a screw was in the recess, then stake it with a center punch upsetting the threads enough it couldn't back out. I also used loctite on them.

On the older Holleys with slotted head screws, I would go through my stock until I found a set that would have the slot in-line with the air flow.

Sounds like a good plan. Something small enough to easily clamp in the vice (;)) but large enough to be ridged and take a light hammer blow. Got it.