Hey Racer,
I had my ball joints replaced at a shop and ever since I've had a problem with the steering return and wandering. I was checking out your post about ball joint replacement and saw what you wrote about the return and wandering, just wanted to see if they could have installed them incorrectly or if it could be something else going on

Racerguy,
I'm a newbie here to the site. I followed your instructions on spark plug replacement on our 2004 Ford Escape the other day. Put new upper gaskets in the intake manifold as recommended too. The vehicle will start immediatley and then start chugging and popping and does not want to idle. If I press the gas pedal it seems to smooth out at higher rpms. I could barely get it out of my garage. I decided to take a spin around the block...same thing..when coming to a stop sign it would cough and chug and I also noticed that I hardly had any brakes?? I had to stand on the pedal with both feet!! Seemed to run fine under a constant speed?? I think I put the vacuum lines back where they were to go?? What are your thoughts?? This is very discouraging...thanks for any input...at wits end.

racerguy,

Im new to the site, though i have been reading posts for years. I like your post about ball joint and u-joint replacements, though i have one question that has me stumped in the middle of the process of doing the job, I first had to put the truck ( a 2003 f350 with manual locking hubs) in 4x4 before getting into the garage. once in the garage i disengaged the 4x4 and unlocked the hubs. when i got to the step to pull hub out of assembly, i took the ring lock off, yet the hub will not budge, i have used a rubber hammer and pry bar to attemt to start it out but nothing. I then used a small hammer which broke the end of the hub, also the other side will not budge either, any help would be great, do you think that they may be froze in or locked up ? thank you

I am getting ready to replace ball joints on a 2000 f250 rear wheel drive, twin i beam. Where is a good place to get the control arm since it saids i cannot replace upper ball joints. Thanks Charles

Hello I am trying to make sense of the Air bag error 27 info. I have removed the module from the dash and find a miniature light bulb. Some posts say an LED or a very large diode or a light bulb, one said he measured 12VDC. Need to know before I repair as some very poor results may occur if the smoke escapes from the circuit Thx Larry

I'm brand-new to this forum and read all 13 pages of your posts about replacing upper/lower ball joints----Here is my problem----my son's truck 2002 Ford F-150 4X4 has a problem,,,the passenger side tire appears to lean in slightly at the top,,,,and the upper tierod end is slightly rubbing against the tire. The local dealer advised $750.00 & a new steering knuckle MIGHT fix it. What do you think?

Hey RG...I was reading a post you made about ball joints. I just bought a 03' f-250 7.3 and the dealer said everything looked good except the ball joints need to be replaced. When I drive it, it likes to wander and has poor steering wheel return. Does this usally indicate the ball joints are too tight...or need relacing?
Thanks,
Steve

HI Ive read thru some 30 pages of posts and cant seem to find what I need. You seem to answer alot of the post that are close to what Im lookin for. I just got a 97 f150 4x4 auto with a 4.6 . the motor was already takes out and looks to have been run out of oil so I dont want to rebuild. Im lookin to swap. I seem to see lots ov crown vics and marquis with 4.6 will this fit in the f150? If so do you know what years would work best? I d appreciate the help. thanks

Racerguy - it seems you know the bi-fuel trucks well. I just got a 1999 F250LD 5.4 with the factory LPG bi-fuel. It needs plugs and or a coil replaced, so I started taking off the compuvalve. I started it a couple of times along the way (most of it unplugged), but after removing it completely, it won't start. It was disabled when I got the truck, and was only on gasoline. Can you tell me what needs to be hooked up, or where I can find a wiring diagram on it? Thanks a million, and I'd be willing to pay for your time if it's involved.
Brandon

Racerguy - very informative post about the ball joint replacement. My son and I just read all 12 pages getting ready to tackle his '99 F150 with 204,000 miles. Quick question. We've had two different shops tell us we need ball joints. I'm looking at replacing either the entire control arm (with bushings and lower ball joint already installed) or just the lower ball joint. Would you recommend replacement of the control arm bushings? The truck is making some awfully loud squeeking noises. Also, replace the tie rod ends with this high mileage? Thanks again.

Mark