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redroad is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.redroad is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.

redroad redroad is offline

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Visitor Messages

Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 44
  1. Sarah Sullivan
    09-01-2014 07:50 PM - permalink
    Sarah Sullivan

    above is the part we need to replace below is the tank its in good shape

  2. Sarah Sullivan
    09-01-2014 07:42 PM - permalink
    Sarah Sullivan
    The tank itself is in good shape all we need to do is get the filler hose and the metal housing that holds that tank
  3. Sarah Sullivan
    09-01-2014 05:36 PM - permalink
    Sarah Sullivan
    I'm not sure of the gallon size but its a long plastic tank that runs inside the frame under the cab and bed. The bracket was more of a metal box/casing that held the tank up to the frame. Which is almost as big as the tank.
  4. SuperDuty93
    07-29-2014 02:50 AM - permalink
    Hey tried PM ing you but your inbox is full. I need those manifolds for the highboy. If you can PM me id appreciate it
  5. Pvt dirtpusher
    07-05-2014 10:53 PM - permalink
    Pvt dirtpusher
    Email sent
  6. djmichael24951
    11-21-2013 07:59 PM - permalink
    Hey Redroad. How are ya? Can you give me any info on a 1995 Ford F150? I am getting ready to purchase a 1995 Ford F150 4x4 with a 5.0L. I have never seen a truck like this. It is listed as heavy duty suspension. It is a standard 1/2 ton frame. But the suspension is weird to me. This truck actually has 2 shocks on each side of the coil spring on both sides of the front of the truck. And it has overloads in the back, which I didn't see that part. Is this a Factory Tow Package? If so, does it have a different HP or torque output rating than a standard duty F150? My frame of thinking tells me that a truck with a factory tow package, has a different gear ratio in the drivetrain, than the standard duty F150. I am inquiring about this, because I have a 9800 lbs. camper that I need to pull with it. I did see on one website that the 95 F150 is rated to pull 11,500 lbs.
  7. djmichael24951
    08-12-2013 05:45 PM - permalink
    Hey Redroad, are you still around the neighborhood? I have some questions for ya.
  8. redroad
    04-24-2013 10:40 PM - permalink
    All good here thanks .. Rained out today .. How you holding up?
    Is it slapping against a valve or the head is the question .. hard starting when warm could be just the timing is to far advanced if it was run with to much advance for to long the valve could have burned to the point that it is not sealing to the point that it is down in the piston .. That is all from the top end and would cause a definite power loss .. Valve cover off ..rockers off for that cylinder .. piston down in the hole .. Smack the valve on top with a plastic mallet to make sure it is opening .. inspect that spring is not broken .. spring bind can happen if a higher lift cam was installed without a valve spring upgrade .. After a close inspection if nothing we have to move to the bottom end possibly rod at wrist pin??
  9. djmichael24951
    04-24-2013 10:14 PM - permalink
    The farther away I get from that location, the knocking sound lessens. It actually sounds like the piston on either one of the two cylinders (and I can tell that it is only happening on one cylinder), is coming up and slapping against the cylinder head. While all this is going on, the engine starts overheating, and when the engine is shut off, it is hard starting. I hope I have made enough observation, that maybe you can help me make a diagnosis, before I tear the engine down.
  10. djmichael24951
    04-24-2013 10:14 PM - permalink
    Well, Redroad, how are you on this fine evening? I finally got someone to help me out on my engine a little. So, when the engine is cold, on initial start-up, when the engine is revved just to the point that the rattle can be heard, I listened with my stethoscope. I could not hear any rattle through the valve cover, neither could I hear anything through my oil pan. As I mentioned the other night, as the engine gets warmer, the noise gets more prominent. But, still not heard through the valve covers or the oil pan. As the engine reaches normal operating temperature, when the engine is revved, you can still hear the rattle, but at this point the oil pressure has dropped to zero, and a knock has started to sound. I then started placing the stethoscope on the cylinder heads next to each spark plug. The knock is loudest around the number one and two cylinders.

About Me

  • About redroad
    Native American / Old School
    2 Letter State/Province (use "--" for outside USA/
    Current Mileage
    75,000 - 99,999
    Miles per year
    Rather not say
    Engine type and displacement
    Tranny type


Total Posts
Visitor Messages
General Information
  • Last Activity: Today 03:51 PM
  • Join Date: 11-28-2006
  • Referrals: 0


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