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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 221
  1. domgrossi67
    12-30-2016 09:59 AM - permalink
    domgrossi67
    hi subford, first off I would like to thank you for you do on this site. You have helped a lot of people for no compensation and I think we all appreciate it. your threads have helped me before also. thank you. now what I was hoping you could help me with is,,, lol always something huh? I am looking for actual schematics and diagrams for the under dash wiring showing not only what wire goes where but colors. My truck was stolen a while back and its as iff they just ripped all the wires out from under the dash to be jerks, as if stealing the truck wasn't enough. They also took it off road and blew out the rearend. Anyways I need to rewire under the dash and cannot find what I need anywhere. Even subscribed to alldata to see if they have it but no. Any help would be appreciated. Even if you know what to search on here for it thanks in advance
  2. jhutchison40
    12-03-2016 06:56 PM - permalink
    jhutchison40
    Okay, so I used a jump box to check everything out, and I'm losing 9 volts from pin 37 which powers EEC, injectors, etc. Is there any way I can wire from the battery to fuel pump relay directly? The truck sat for awhile, and I'm wondering if something got in there and chewed up some important wires.
  3. jorenn
    12-02-2016 11:18 PM - permalink
    jorenn
    Subford, After reading about every post you have made about fuel pump issues you seem to be the go to guy. I have a 93 with dual tanks, truck has set for a few years in our farm shop. I am not getting power to the pumps. I removed the rear tank to test pump and I am getting 7 volts to it but as I read that is misleading, when I used a test light it had no power. I then tried testing everything I could find you suggested in other threads. I switched relay with one I tested with the horn to ensure it works. Cleaned grounds at both the radiator support and battery to body. I tested power to the fuse, good there. I next tested power at the inertia switch with a test light, the green/yellow wire was not as bright as the red wire. I then was able to get power to the rear pump when I ground the #6 pin in the test connector. The tank selector seems to be functioning, when I switch to front tank I do not get power to rear. I was hoping you had anymore ideas.

    Thank You
    Josh - Manhattan, KS
  4. jhutchison40
    11-21-2016 06:11 PM - permalink
    jhutchison40
    Hey Subford,

    I have an '89 F150 with a 5.0, dual tank system, I'm wondering what I need to check because I'm not getting any power to the fuel pump relay. I replaced the front tank and fuel pump as well as the inline pump, but when I turn the key to start it, nothing happens. Could you help me out?
  5. devin.preston
    10-17-2016 04:22 PM - permalink
    devin.preston
    Hey I created an account just so I can contact you because I heard you are very intelligent. I have a question about my truck. It's a 1996 ford f150 XLT 4.9 300 L6. I drive around town and my emissions monitors get ready. But once I turn the key off everything gets erased including stored codes and monitor status.
  6. mike L
    10-09-2016 09:07 PM - permalink
    mike L
    Hi, I'm getting a KOEO code 211. I was told that this indicates the ignition PIP signal is erratic, which could definitely cause a running issue. The PIP is generated by a sensor in the distributor itself. What's the next step? The truck idles a little rough and runs ok.
  7. ryanmahon28
    09-12-2016 09:25 PM - permalink
    ryanmahon28
    Hey Subford,


    I hope you are well. I was referred to you because you might be able to help me out. I was driving down the highway (1989 f250 7.3 idi) when my headlights, radio, and horn went dead. I opened up the hood and saw that it was overheating and the coolant reservoir tank was bubbling over. I assume that the coolant got to something electrical but I'm not positive. I'm definitely not a mechanical genius but I can figure stuff out with help. I replaced the relay that was lying directly behind the tank and the radio now seems to come in and out but the horn and headlights still aren't working. Any ideas?


    Thanks,


    Ryan
  8. jddelta
    08-07-2016 01:09 PM - permalink
    jddelta
    Dear Subford, I am trying to replace the o-rings wit new ones that are compatible with ethanol. My F150 is a 1989 year model. F1UZ-9B263-B, Fuel Tank Selector Valve. I have it apart and am afraid to pull to hard on the two valves because of fear I might be doing it wrong and damage them. Are they usually hard to remove from the body? is there a special way you pull them out? Please give me your advice.
  9. Mimi17
    05-18-2016 04:31 PM - permalink
    Mimi17
    Dear subford, took the unit off blew thru it had it installed improperly. Runs like a champ now. Cannot thank you enough for your help and knowledge. You are the best!
  10. Mimi17
    05-18-2016 02:24 PM - permalink
    Mimi17
    Thank you, we found one off of a bronco installed it but now it won't run for more than a few seconds.before we installed it it was running but one of the fuel pumps was sounding too loud and i had read that it could be hard on the engine to run the van without the fuel resevoir, i have bought both fuel pumps, sensors, filter and a new brain. I'm at a loss here financially and my brain is hurting trying to figure this out. Than you for any input you may have. He should have tested the part before insalling.

About Me

  • About subford
    Biography
    retired
    Location
    Easton,Ks
    Interests
    computers
    2 Letter State/Province (use "--" for outside USA/
    KS
    Country of Residence
    US
    Make
    Ford
    Model
    F-150
    Year
    1995
    Current Mileage
    150,000 - 199,999
    Miles per year
    1,000 - 4,999
  • Signature
    95 F150 302 4R70W EB EX-CAB
    94 F53 460 E4OD COACHMEN SANTARA RV
    93 F250 STYLESIDE 460 E4OD 4X4
    77 F250 351M-2V NP 435/4 Speed 4X4
    subford@gmail.com
    Bill K, Kansas Chapter

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  • Last Activity: Today 11:21 AM
  • Join Date: 08-26-2005
  • Referrals: 6

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