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daveengelson has a good reputation on FTE.daveengelson has a good reputation on FTE.daveengelson has a good reputation on FTE.

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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 6 of 6
  1. clickws
    03-02-2012 01:02 AM - permalink
    Daveengelson, I am going to take on a thorough brake system run through on my 1965 F100 Pickup 3.9L Fleet side. I am wondering what all I need to take into consideration and what needs to be my process of making sure that all brakes are totally fixed and good for normal driving again.

    A little preliminary information:
    The brake pedal goes to the floor. The master cylinder looks to be non functional. I have not checked the brake lines yet. I think that regardless the rubber portions should be replaced. I need to learn more about the actual brakes, how they work, and how I need to go about making sure I get them totally fixed. Brakes have been out for about 10 years and has not been driven in that time. Engine is good to go, but brakes certainly need to be fixed. Please write me back on here or preferably at my email. Headhunter26@aol.com
  2. Trog59
    07-01-2010 08:10 PM - permalink
    I saw in a previous post that you emailed a wiring diagram for a 65 F100 Instrument Panel, I could really use that I have ordered my shop manual but it wont be here for a week or so.

    My e-mail address is jsteyer59@live.com

  3. daveengelson
    11-02-2009 02:52 AM - permalink
    Only allowed 1000 character in message field so explanation will be brief.
    Used anodize remover. Worked out dents and straightened. Alum is soft so use caution. Started med. paper, keep in mind sanding marks eventually have to be smooth out, don't want to start too rough. Started with 320 progressing to 2500-2000. Higher the grit the greater the gloss. I assume if use alum polish the residue will need to be washed off for the clear coat to adhere. Grille is made of low grade alum alloy requires a clear coat to preserve the finish. Used aerosol can of clear specific for alum, Eastwood carries more advance product. Thought about checking if there's a clear powder coating perhaps preserve finish longer. Finally, it's labor intensive and occasionally question what u got yourself into. Good luck!!
  4. 664x4drvr
    11-01-2009 06:51 AM - permalink
    Could you give me the steps to removing oxidizer on a 65-66 grille and polishing Thanks.
  5. dwcford
    09-10-2009 04:31 PM - permalink

    Your name continually pops up during my searches for my problem trying to install a DS II in my 66 F100 with a 351W so I figure I'd go right to the source (you). I am stuck and not sure where to go. I posted my problem in 66 forum. Would you be willing to look at that and give me some pointers. My email address is dwconstruction@mac.com. Any help would be great. Thank you for your time. Dan
  6. dullchrome
    02-02-2009 02:18 PM - permalink

    would you be interested in selling the ALT and OIL gauge from your cluster that was pictured in FTE?

    I really only need the ALT but would be more than happy to buy both. They dont even need to be working.


About Me

  • About daveengelson
    Santa Cruz Mountains
    Auto/Truck Restoration. camping/fishing
    2 Letter State/Province (use "--" for outside USA/
    Current Mileage
    250,000 or more
    Miles per year
    1,000 - 4,999
    60 foot time
    1/8 Mile ET
    1/8 Mile MPH
    1/4 Mile ET
    1/4 Mile MPH
  • Signature
    'problem with engaging in useless activity is never knowing when your done'

    65F100, 302ci, T18, swb, flareside,front disc. PS, Duraspark Ign.(Daily Driver)
    65F100, 390ci, 3sp.OD, lwb, styleside, front disc., Duraspark Ign.


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  • Last Activity: Yesterday 08:26 PM
  • Join Date: 08-13-2003
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