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AXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to behold

AXracer AXracer is offline

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Visitor Messages

Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 29
  1. 54-F100
    11-21-2014 11:52 AM - permalink
    54-F100
    Hi AXracer,
    I was reading through a post where someone commented that you had made a post along the lines of "How to align a 53-56 F100 front end clip".
    Well I didn't want to bother you....so I went 'stalker' and flipped through a few hundred of your posts with absolutely no luck - I did learn about several things to consider in the life of our own build for our 54 F100 :-)
    Do you know where I might find some good instructions on bringing my front fenders & hood into the best alignment?
    Thanks
    Dan
  2. AXracer
    11-20-2014 11:28 AM - permalink
    AXracer
    I am definitely going to be posting the body repair info including the shrinking disk. Stay tuned to this channel!
  3. underthebridgejim
    11-20-2014 01:59 AM - permalink
    underthebridgejim
    I cant wait for the piece you mite do ,on using a shrinking disc. I've had a disk, but never thought of using it to smoothing out my tail gate. I just wanted you to know there is interest in the practice. Hope you decide to it.
  4. AXracer
    10-08-2014 06:46 PM - permalink
    AXracer
    I typically work on a labor+ materials basis on rust repair since I don't know what surprises I'll find under paint/bondo/outer skin, and/or what level of finish the owner is going to want. I don't do this as a business, iI am a retired jeweler/goldsmith with 50 years experience shaping metal, building hotrods, race cars, just wanting to supplement my income, so I don't charge what the pro shops do. My labor charge is typically 25.00/hr work time, 10.00/hr parts research/chasing. + materials. I do only first quality work, fully metal finished or skim coated. Please don't ask me to do a slap and grind heavy bondo job. If you want to save money I can advise you on doing the prep work. I also offer one on one or small group instruction if you want to learn to DIY.
  5. hotrodbrando
    10-08-2014 06:06 PM - permalink
    hotrodbrando
    Hey there. so, you mentioned that you do some of the metal patching. Can you give me a rough idea of what it would cost to have you do, say, a cab corner? I would be able to figure out and do this stuff myself but i also weigh the time value of having someone do it who actually knows what they are doing. Thanks!!
  6. schoo
    10-03-2014 02:13 PM - permalink
    schoo
    here is a pic may help


  7. schoo
    10-03-2014 02:12 PM - permalink
    schoo
    hi roy here have a question if you could help me replacing a rotten cowl and wondering if I should use the flange on the replacement panel and cut out more than I need to or just cut the panel to fit the cowl and but weld, using ez grind filler wire
    thanks roy
  8. fabieber
    02-01-2014 12:55 AM - permalink
    fabieber
    Hello AX.
    If this gets through and if you are willing to give me some advice on my power steering conversion (I just saw your extensive thread from some years ago), would you please drop me a short note? Thank you, Fred
  9. mikidymac
    01-29-2014 03:40 PM - permalink
    mikidymac
    Hello AxRacer, I have been reading all of your info on MIG welding and was going to order some of the Esab Easy Grind but they no longer make it in 2 lb spools. Is there anything else that you recommend? I have some Lincoln L-56 0.025 ER70s-6. BTW. I am working on the original body for our 51' F-1.
  10. ke6jcf
    10-13-2013 08:12 PM - permalink
    ke6jcf
    Hope you don't mind me bothering you but you seem to know a lot about alignment and front end issues. When the engine is running should there be play in the steering wheel. Nothing moves when moving the steering wheel apprx 1" both directions then power takes over and things move, after the inch. I've had friends move the steering wheel while I search for issues and nothing is moving but the shaft connected to the steering column and the steering wheel it's self. The sector is a rebuilt, I'm thinking it's bad. I tried to adjust the adjuster on the side of the sector but it's tight already. I jacked the wheels off the ground and tightened the screw until I couldn't move it any more. Play was still there and oddly enough there was no stiffness in the steering. I was moving the steering wheel lock to lock to make sure I didn't tighten the sector too much. This is driving me crazy!
    Thanks again,
    Doug

About Me

  • About AXracer
    Location
    Durham NC
    2 Letter State/Province (use "--" for outside USA/
    NC
    Country
    USA
    Make
    Ford
    Model
    F-100
    Year
    1956
    Current Mileage
    Rather not say
    Miles per year
    Rather not say
    Engine type and displacement
    CSB 400
    Major modifications
    T-56 6 speed, Toyota PS, 9" rear axle, front power disc brakes.
    Tranny type
    Manual
    Horsepower
    0
    60 foot time
    0
    1/8 Mile ET
    0
    1/8 Mile MPH
    0
    1/4 Mile ET
    0
    1/4 Mile MPH
    0
    Facebook
    Chuck Frank
    Gender
    Male
  • Signature
    Passionate about autocross racing!

    1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE"
    2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
    Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships

Statistics

Total Posts
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General Information
  • Last Activity: Yesterday 08:41 PM
  • Join Date: 10-19-2004
  • Referrals: 0

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