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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 203
  1. porkyzilla
    07-08-2015 02:28 AM - permalink
    Hey can you help me with this? I am working on a 1990 F-150 with a 5.8 Automatic 4x4 California emissions. The truck is broke down 1hr away from me alls I can get from my uncle is the calibration code he cant pull the ecm. : 0-64R-R12 : can anyone give me the engineering/part number and interchange for ECM?
  2. allen23923
    07-05-2015 12:38 PM - permalink
    Ok retested and using pin 2 and 6 of test port I have 40 psi key on after 30 mins 30 psi heres a video of truck running
  3. allen23923
    06-30-2015 09:00 PM - permalink
    Ive posted and have no responses ..seems like you are The Guru of fords of sorts I need advice ...
    1988 f150 5.0 4x4 eod4 ..ran like a champ til I left work last week ,25 mph was top speed and popped back thur air filter box and no power at all did a fuel pressure test key on engine off 0 ..key on engine running 30 ...Replaced fuel pump with bosch 69100 and new fuel pressure regulator ,swapped map and computer ,coil ..No cels at all....When I change ecc I noticed it in park I reved it up and it started cutting back at 2500 rpms I could hear plenty of air sucking thur air box but it would sound like staving for fuel...only problem I have is rear tank will not run more then 2 miles and truck cuts off like out of gas but its been that way since I got it and have replaced both in tank sending units complete pump strainers ....Oh fuel filter was replaced 8 months ago going to replace it again tomorrow it possible the tank valve control is problem ?
  4. kaz442
    06-23-2015 06:12 PM - permalink
    Hello I hope you can help me out. I have a 1989 motorhome on a E350 chassis. I want to relocated the ICM from the distributer to a heat sink on the fender. I picked up a heat sink from the junk yard. Do they sell a extension harness to relocated this? Thanks Jeff
  5. Greg Parker
    06-05-2015 12:21 PM - permalink
    Greg Parker
    I have a 1989 F250 7.3 diesel with a bad fuel selector valve E7TB-9F271-AA) and have access to a FSV from a 1986 F250 diesel (no part number available). Do you know if they are "plug and play" compatible? thanks in advance.
  6. SwtNSerene
    02-14-2015 04:03 PM - permalink
    "If you put in a GRAY ICM it is the wrong one. The Black ICM very seldom go bad but it tests bad put in another Black one, never a Gray one." In that quote by you I wanted to know what color one do I need for a 1994 E350 van?
  7. SwtNSerene
    02-12-2015 07:20 PM - permalink
    I seen a fourm you replied to and it sounded like you knew your stuff. I have an issue and could really use your help. Cwould you please Msg me back. Than you in advance.
  8. John Parr
    12-27-2014 02:48 PM - permalink
    John Parr
    ive been reading your stuff for a while . good info. I have a 95 f150 4x4 5.0 manual. I think at some time in the past the po swapped engines. I HAVE to pass emmissions. I get codes 113,117,332,334. 113 is always first. there is no spot for an iat sensor,but the plug was under the coil mount. 117.the plug has ref.voltage,sensor is new. I figure the 332 and334 are due to vac hoses[since they snap if you move them at all.the tomato can is leak free. any help I can get would be great. thanks
  9. chris herman
    09-01-2014 05:40 PM - permalink
    chris herman
    hello you helped me a while back with my 89 e350 tioga e350 thanks a lot . I just came back from a 700 mile trip it started out where I had to give it gas to go downhill was holding back than it started making loud hissing like noise than it stopped and free wheeled freely . than got where couldn't run fast had pull over get a tow. tranny not slipping engine shakes when in gear but not in park . cat has been gutted trans fluid don't smell burnt. engine revs up like it should in park also new plugs wires dist cap and fuel filter.
    thanks hope u can help
  10. Conybman
    08-26-2014 12:48 AM - permalink
    Have 95 f150 4x4 w 5.0, swapping in ca model 5.8 MAf, I have the 7 pin connector on the back of my truck for back up lights and brakes.
    I know I have to run a wire to connector 205 pin #2 to run the brakes.

    Questions I have are these. I am a journeyman wireman and mechanic so reading diagrams and rewiring is not an issue!

    What kind of pin, male or female, what size and type of pin and where do I buy 1 to push into pin #2?

    If I buy 3 bosch relays to make my own trailer controls,

    Do I have to remove the in engine comp fuse box to get wires from the 30 amp fuse o the relay and for the other relays?

    Is pushing in a pin to #2 of 205 the only thing I need to do to make the trailer barked work? I know I need a jumper from the under dash to the controller.

    As said connections already made to factory trailer wiring at the rear. But no backup lites ( which is next).

About Me

  • About subford
    2 Letter State/Province (use "--" for outside USA/
    Current Mileage
    150,000 - 199,999
    Miles per year
    1,000 - 4,999
  • Signature
    95 F150 302 4R70W EB EX-CAB
    83 F150 Flare Side 351W AOD
    77 F250 351M-2V NP 435/4 Speed 4X4
    Bill K, Kansas Chapter


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  • Last Activity: Today 07:58 PM
  • Join Date: 08-26-2005
  • Referrals: 6


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